Well, I finally got to the point after putting the new fron suspension in, etc to put my engine back in my 55. This is the same engine and tranny that came out of it so other than the oil pan issue I didn't anticipate any real problems. It is a 429 Ford with a C6. I have gone to a rear sump pan and with the tranny where it had been before, the oil pan has at best 1/8" between it and the rear of the Heidt crossmember. It appears that I still need to move the whole engine towards the driver side to center it better in the frame. I may be able to move it back some by adjusting the transmission crossmember, but not very much, because then I have issues on the front part of the oil pan and may have more issues with the firewall.

I guess what I am looking for is suggestions or measurements that I may be able to use and reference.

Thanks
Pat

 

That's a pretty common clearance issue with the big block and MII crossmember. I've seen where some guys here have just notched the crossmember slightly. As long as you don't take too much off and box it all back in correctly, you will be fine. Alternatively, you can clearance the oil pan a bit, too.

 

Pat,
here's some shots of mine... and where it sits. You can always move the transmission x-member if need be but have to consider having enough room in the tailshaft the the driveshaft to move in and out... unless you want to have the d.s. shortened... I think 1/8" is gonna give you some strange noises and bumping when the engine torques... they DO move a good bit

how much is off the center line left to right ?? if it's an inch or so and it's a lot of trouble I wouldn't mess with it.. clearances are more important than appearance and 1" isn't noticable (except to you). think about all the stuff you have to add... headers and linkage and stuff... this is a 460 with a c-6.

you can see we notched the crossmember for clearance and the mark on the pan shows we considered notching the pan first... the welding on the crossmember was easier than the thin pan.

john

 

Thanks John, your pics helped me visualize all of this. Since posting I realized that changing to a flatter cross member that would raise the tail shaft, level the motor and provide alot more clearance between the pan and crossmember. I am not sure where the cross member was from, but it hangs real low and while it worked with the other setup using the Volare front end geometry is not the same here. Centering also got better with the tailshaft being raised to allow me some more room to move the engine around.

Would really like a motor mount setup like yours. I will have to work on those.

I have to take the whole thing back out because I believe I screwed up the tranny when bolting up to the engine yesterday. I think I damaged the front pump or maybe the torque converter. Time will reveal.

Thanks again.
Pat

 

There is no compelling reason the engine needs to be centered between the frame rails as long as the engine centerline stays parallel. Engines are often offset for steering and or starter clearance even from the factory.

 

Understand, the main reason is my "type A" issues. For me the closer to center it is the better the headers, etc fit and makes everything afterwards easier to deal with. Since my original post I have realized that with a new tranny crossmember and a taller tranny tunnel cover all will work better and fit more comfortably. My primary concern it to ensure the straightest line from the tranny tailshaft to the pinion and to keep the engine as level both left and right as front to back.

Thanks
pat

 

Just be careful you don't make your angle from the trans to the diff too straight. The driveshaft has to have some angle, about 3 degrees or so minimum, so the u-joints will work correctly. But it is critical that the centerline plane of the crankshaft and pinion gear is parallel with each other, horizontally and vertically.

 

Actually the driveline is not supposed to be straight and level as 52 Merc pointed out.
Here's what you should be aiming for:
Set the frame at ride angle front to back and level side to side as reference.
Engine should sit level side to side measured across the intake manifold carb mounting flange.
Engine should sit at a rear down angle of ~ 3* so that the carb mounting flange is level front to back. (the flange surface is NOT parallel to the manifold base.)
Engine may be mounted offset to one side or the other between the frame rails for header, starter or steering clearance. (Factory installs are often as much as 2" offset, header manufacturers build their headers to allow this offset especially on engines with clearance problems. Note that your firewall indent and tranny hump is not centered for this reason.) If offset, engine centerline should remain parallel to frame centerline, NOT angled towards center. Many rear axles including some Ford 9" are built with the centersection offset to one side to match engine offset to minimize driveshaft tunnel width, but it is not necessary they match.
The driveshaft should NEVER form a straight line thru transmission and rear axle. The U joints need to run thru an angle to keep the bearings spinning or they will wear out quickly. However the transmission angle and rear axle pinion angle should be parallel at rest.

 

AX explained it perfectly... if you need visuals... look here

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/dri...nephasing.html


john

 

Thanks John, a picture IS worth 1K words. I've bookmarked your page for future reference.

 

Thanks for all. I guess you all took me quite literal. I never meant for everthing to be string straight from crank pulley to rear axle.

 

AND according to Dana/Spicer, there IS a compelling reason to offset the engine. (As Johns excellent site indicated)

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF (Just right click and "Save-as" to your desktop)

EVERYONE installing a driveshaft should review this also excellent publication.

Since my front drive shaft will be short, I'll only need to offset my engine about 0.5-1.0 inch to the starboard side to get the minimum angles.

An added benefit to give me more room for the steering box, etc.


Cheers,


Rick

 

The flat crossmember for the transmission did the trick. I got my 429 in the 55 the other night. I have good clearances and nice angles on the driveshaft. Now working on building the weld in motor mounts, etc.