I've removed and replaced the front suspension, now have a cross member with Rack-N-Pinion mounted, bit the truck's oil pan sits on the crossmember.

Has anyone swapped for a smaller front pan nodel?

I'm thinking of modifying the oil pan... I know crank and rod windage is a concern, correct?

How much can I reduce the pan depth by? I'm probably only gonna notch the front of the deeper section, right under the pick-up tube.

 

Will the car pan with the front sump work for you?? You will need to change the oil pickup to the car one also...

 

balafas

right now, is your sump in the front or rear?

as far as windage, if you reduce the size of the pan

it'll raise the level and crank will beat the oil more, if that's what you mean.

for example when Moroso sells a 7 quart pan for a SBF,

they've figured that all out.

later

 

I've posted pics of my Modifications and problem witht the oil pan to my 1960 fx00 resto-Mod album. It's a stock truck engine oil pan, sump in the rear, pickup on the driver side.

I have a "spare" oil pan, identical, that I plan to cut and modify to make it fit, I hope.

anyone know how much "Clearance" I should shoot for as I know when I hit the pedal the engine will rock a bit, I'd like to get it right the "first time" so I don;t have to pull the engine/tranny again later.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

 

stan

check with Bob at 'something' Ford F100's

in Riverside, CA.

if it's been done to one of those

'53-56? F100's, he'll know all about.

you'll get it!

 

It looks like notching the front is all that is needed. Before you make the notch, fill the pan with 5 quarts of water and mark the level. When you're done with the modification, fill it again and see how it compares. The level will have to increase significantly to cause any concerns with the rotating assembly. You can always make the back half deeper to compensate. When you have the pan off you can measure the distance the rods protrude beyond the pan rail.

If you will be making these modifications by welding, mount the pan to a spare block or clamp it to a flat surface to help prevent it from warping.

If your pan does not have a baffle, add one. It doesn't need to be anything fancy but it makes a big difference. When you're measuring for the placement of the baffle, be sure to leave enough room to get the pickup in there.

I don't know how much clearance you should leave. I'd take a look at some production cars at a salvage yard to get an idea.

 

stan

i'd say the clearance should be anywhere

from an 1 1/2 to 2 inches.

engine rocks side to side and

not up and down so that ought to work.

with good side motor mounts edges of

pan would only move 1/4 to 1/2 inch, if that.

if all you have is that front horse collar mount

might want to put an engine strap in.

have a good one

 

stan

have you checked into just

a regular production front sump pan?

that would be a pretty good way

to go if it all checks out.

check with this guy http://www.bobsf100.com/

they may even have the pan your looking for

already made.

later

 

Not sure I have clearance at all for a front sump oil pan. Is there a part or picture with dimensions so I can assess the fit?

 

stan

small world!

looks like somebody right here was doing same thing you are.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-line-2.html

i saw word 'rack' in post with picture of oil pan cut up.

later

 

stan

got rid of e bay ad because those expire.

front sump looks like the rear sump turned around.

difference is it has little round part under pickup and

the pickup tube comes 'all the way' from oil pump up to front.

i think you're headed in right direction

fabricating your own.

see ya

 

I thought for a second and realized that my Power rack-n-pinion is sitting under the front section of the oil pan now.

So that's not an option...

Chop-cut-rebuild !