Hey guys I have a few questions regarding rebuilding my turbo and fixing my leaking pedestal. Well first things first while I am fixing my pedestal leak should I go ahead and rebuild the turbo? I read on some previous post that you might as well since you are in there and since my truck has 216,000 miles on her I think it wouldn’t hurt anything but I don’t want to spend the extra money if I don’t have too. Second how hard is it to rebuild the turbo along with fixing the pedestal leak? I took some pictures of my turbo wheel for you guys to look and (plus I know how everyone on here likes pictures!) tell me if its time for a new wheel. It don’t look in the best of shape but I could be wrong! Just trying to figure out what I need so I can do it all at once! Thanks guys Cody

 

Wheel looks fine to me....actually, it looks better than most that I've seen. What kind of air filter/intake are you using?


I recently rebuilt the EBP actuator in my pedestal but I did not pull the turbo apart. 285k miles.

I suppose you could rebuild the turbo if you want but it doesn't seem like it's something that has to be done right now. However, you do want to make sure you check the bolts that connect the turbine housing to the center carrier piece. They sometimes can loosen up and fall out. See page 7 of the attached link...

 

To rebuild the turbo is not normally that hard. The wheel looks in good shape. At 216,000 miles if it were mine I would go ahead and rebuild it. But others may differ. Only thing I can see being a problem is some of the bolts can be a some buck to get out. Often pb blast or kroil does the trick but in worst cases a lil heat. Are you running a tuner or chip? If so and you were having turbo surge issues, at this time I may consider a ww. But if you don't have turbo surge it's unnecessary.

 

Im running an S&B intake system, it was on the truck when I bought the truck six months ago.

Im running Php tunes and I do get some surge one 120 and 140 tunes at WOT. will the ww cure that problem? The only reason Im considering rebuilding the turbo is because I dont know if it has ever been rebuilt. I bought the truck six months ago. I just dont want to be in there and fix my pedestal leak and a month later I need to fix something on the turbo.

 

The WW will not completely cure the surge. I don't think anything can completely, but it sure will reduce the heck out of it. I don't tow but once a year and it's lightweight stuff, but I never get it anymore (that I can hear). I have to rebuild mine this weekend as the bolts between the center section and turbine housing (mentioned above) backed out and caused a nasty leak. I got all my stuff from guzzle's site. Check your shaft play before you decide to buy parts to rebuild. That bit me at 150K. Found out my old turbo was junk AFTER buying the rebuild kit. Good luck to you!

Another thing to consider is the EBPV delete while you have it out. Bellowed up-pipes are another. CCV mod would be good with all that room also. Like you said, you don't want to have to keep removing that booger. I don't care who you are, it aint as fun as drinking beer in a lawn chair.

 

I agree with the others that the wheel looks darned good. As long as there isn't shaft play you could probably slap the turbo right back on, but if it were me and I had it off already I'd do it all.

The WW helps surge by flowing less air. The other way to go is a ported compressor housing.

 

The turbo has barley any shaft play. I don't wanna spend the money if I don't have too but I like preventative maintenance. Are the EBPV and the pedestal the same thing? I thought about doing the EBPV delete also. I would love to do bellowed up pipes if I had more money! But being in college full time limits my cash flow. I have a little soot around one of my up pipes. Can you buy new gaskets?

 

Felpro #8194. They're chevy donuts that, from what i've read, work awesome.

 

Thank you for the part number! Reps to you. I guess I will begin composing the parts list.

 

I didn't rebuild mine at 170K. I don't like to open up turbos unless they need the rebuild. A check of shaft play will tell if it needs a rebuild, is close to needing a rebuild, or is good to go. A little side to side play is normal, in and out play is the main one to check for, pretty much any in and out "horizontal" play will be good for a rebuild. If there is some side to side play but the wheel won't touch the housing and no in and out play I would just leave it alone.

 

Yeah the shaft is really tight so I'm leaving it along I think.