2003 ford ranger 3.0 v6 running issues
#1
2003 ford ranger 3.0 v6 running issues
Ok I have a 2003 ranger 2wd v6 3.0L. Battery voltage with truck running is 14.89vdc. The issue is a bit confuseing. The symptom is kinda like a fuel filter issue. When u go to pass a car or get on the interstate oir just floor the gas it boggs down and bucks and trys to keep going but doesnt increase speed. It doesnt do it at all speeds (AT FIRST). I changed the fuel filter first cause it was cheap and seemed to be obviously causeing the issue. Before it would do the runing issue so I changed the filter which required the fuel rail getting depressurized and then when I drove it it didnt do it. I floor the pedal to put the motor under a load and it didnt do it TILL it got to 55mph. After that it would do it at 30mph if you got on the gas. The filter has been changed, the plug wires, ign modual checks out fine, batt charging normal, the issue is constant and not intermittant but the truck hasnt thrown a code and only does it when the motor is under a load. If your out just casually driving the issue doesnt show but the gas milage has decreased. I dont know if im just over complicating the issue or Im missing something. The fuel pressure test shows its quick to prime the line and not slow like a weak pump. I noticed a 5-10psi bounce when the issue is happening as im going down the road but it doesnt act like a normal fuel pump issue. Is there any other fuel pump test I can do or does anyone else have any suggestions?
#2
Check the pressure with the engine idling. Then remove the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator and watch the pressure. It should pop up, and then go back down when you put the vacuum line back in place. I think around 40psi with the vacuum line connected and in the range of 60 with it off.
You can also check delivery volume. Pressure is not the only story, as it can have pressure, but not be able to deliver enough fuel to meet demand. Most gauges have a valve you can open to divert fuel to a container. Mark the container or use one with markings, and open the valve with the engine idling. You should get a pint or so in less than a minute. I did not memorize the numbers, so you should check for detailed numbers, but you'd know pretty quick if it didn't seem to deliver much fuel.
That said, if you do have a problem, it could be the filter on the pickup in the tank, as rust can clog the 'sock'. A last thought is to check your MAF. If they get dirty, and I mean just a speck on the wire, they can give bum information to the ECM, causing the engine to not work so good.
tom
You can also check delivery volume. Pressure is not the only story, as it can have pressure, but not be able to deliver enough fuel to meet demand. Most gauges have a valve you can open to divert fuel to a container. Mark the container or use one with markings, and open the valve with the engine idling. You should get a pint or so in less than a minute. I did not memorize the numbers, so you should check for detailed numbers, but you'd know pretty quick if it didn't seem to deliver much fuel.
That said, if you do have a problem, it could be the filter on the pickup in the tank, as rust can clog the 'sock'. A last thought is to check your MAF. If they get dirty, and I mean just a speck on the wire, they can give bum information to the ECM, causing the engine to not work so good.
tom
#3
I will give it a shot. I havent cleaned the maf sensor but I did a visual inspection and it looked clean. I got the cleaner to do it but didnt think it needed it. Maybe I will clean it lust for the hell of it. I will dbl check my numbers but I think pressure with the line connected is 65-70psi. I havnt tried it with the line off the vacume so I will do that today. Thanks for the info tom I will go thru that today.
#4
did a quick search online for you. I found this http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Ne...185543_tsb.pdf
#5
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Done deal
So it was the cam sync sensor. Cost around $60 and it took about 45min to do. Timing was easy and install was cake. Everything can be gotten to without removeing any componets and such. The sensor comes with a tool to hold the gear for install so as long as u remember which way the tab points your good. It went fairly quick being as it was the first time I did it. Ran like a champ afterwards. Thanks agin for the help. I just dont understand why no coeds would be thrown. As far as I can tell the cam sensor showing spikes in steps should throw codes for the 02 sensor and such. I seen the steps on mine went from 60-200 steps irratically up and down. It was happening above 3500 rpm so it was nice to verify. Thanks for the huge help!!
Mike
Mike
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