Is it possible to do a WOT BRAKE TORQUE to check for boost escaping into coolant...??? I just did a WOT throttle run, checked and degas puked...
I figured if I do a brake torque, I can achieve the same boost as wot... at least damn close (24-28psi)... That way it seals the HG as the issue.. BUT, if I cant get it to puke with WOT BRAKE TORQUE, it may be another issue....

Seems it only Pukes at WOT High Boost.... Highway driving its ok.....

Water Temp NEVER got passed 198, oil temp never went passed 200 either with MAX 8 Degree Spread Between the two...

No White smoke or white residue in exhaust, still produces proper boost levels

Pyro (Post Turbo) was never passed 700...



Am gonna pull the trigger and do HG ONLY if that is the issue... if its EGR cooler, Ill delete... Cant see it being OIl cooler, Id have a heck of a mess...

Thanks for your help guys!!!!!!!

 

Better to get a tester for checking exhaust in the coolant rather than seeing if you are lifting the heads on the motor.



Just recently we had a Freightliner (Detroit motor) that had a coolant leak. All the drivers wrote it up and the shop "fixed" all the places it could have been leaking from.

I drove it north for 157 miles, went through 6 gallons of coolant. So, for the trip back, I mounted an empty coolant bottle to the over flow tube ( which we don't have on our Fords) that lets pressure escape. Stopped at every rest area on way home. Didn't lose one drop of coolant. What changed? I was empty coming home.

So, after the third stop, I decided to apply some "load" to the motor. On a small hill I applied the trailer brake to add the "load", sure enough, blew coolant into the jug. Did this on 3 hills, and each time the jug got more fluid. Yes, just as I thought, head gasket.

Now, just before you fine folks blast me for driving this truck in this condition, the powers to be told me to go a head and drive it. Funny thing is, I reported this test to them when I returned and they said they would let the shop know, the next day they sent the same dang truck back out with this issue, go figure.

But really, this is not the kind of testing I would ever want to do on my engine.

 

I had the same problem, the head bolts have slightly stretched probably only on one head. I got the master solution kit from mkm customs. you want to change everything because you dont want to have to go back in there. I didn't lift the cab but it took almost a week, so much for my holidays.

 

I know this is not a good practice to do AT ALL..... BUT it was right after the truck initially blew coolant from a WOT run.... I will be looking for Coolant Test Strips, but dont know where to look for them....

I dont necessarily want to do oil cooler... Like I said earlier the spread is still quite small.... AND if it comes to an oil cooler later, its not so bad.... EGR cooler is getting deleted tho....

 

There is a test that is chemical. Has a tube that sticks into degas bottle and squeeze the little ball on top. If fluid changes color there is exhaust in the coolant.

I'll see if I can find the product. Most parts stores have them.

 

Thank you that would be great!!! Almost garuntee that its exhaust doing it... Nothing else matches up with same symptoms...

 

Bump... Also, Anyone know the easiest way to test water pump for proper operation... I was thinking, since the brake torque didn't puke coolant.... MAYBE the lack of proper moving coolant (AKA Bad impeller, broken impeller) cause a flash-boil condition due to the high load high heat operation of a WOT run on the Highway

 

best way to check for egr cooler is to pull the valve. if its wet in there then you found your problem. if its dry you found your problem. only other thing white smoke can be is injectors (overfueling). if its dry in the intake that is more than likely going to lead me to believe hg's. if its just puking and no white smoke then its more than likely hg's

 

Read last post, not looking for egt failure symptoms... Water pump symptoms... Thanks...
`But as you stated the only symptom i have is puking... My coolant temp doesnt even climb very high. Which is why I am starting to think its a few problems mixed into one....
1-Bad T-stat... Stuck open possibly... Causing initial low temps
2-Bad water Pump causing poor coolant flow and flash boil at WOT?
3- Head Gaskets pushing Exhaust into coolant just because 6.0's like to do that

Any more thoughts?

 

i doubt its the water pump. 9 times outta 10 its gonna be the front cover that is cavitiated causing inproper flow. i dont think that its gonna cause it to puke though. had a truck with a bad front cover and it wouldnt flow enough coolant and it kept overheating but never boiled over. i know yours isnt overheating but thats normally what happens when the water pump isnt flowing correctly. bad t stat open with a cavitiated front cover would still overheat. closed it would heat up quickly! i know it seems hard to face the hg problem but i think thats where your at. my old truck wouldnt puke until i pulled a load behind me. turned out the gaskets were still shot.

 

I gots NO problems if it IS a HG issue, Ill just repair... I'm just trying to eliminate ANY other possible issues that I might encounter... Basically dont want to go all the way as to pull heads if its something simple you know what i mean vern???

 

i know what you mean on that! its pretty simple to check the front cover. pull the water pump and look in there. takes me about 30 mins to pull a water pump so shouldnt be hard.