Since you have converted the solenoid, you may want to head to Napa and get a new switch that has two terminals on it (technically that is called a single pole single throw - normally open switch)....hook one to a battery source (use a fuse at the source), and the other to the left side of the two small terminals on the solenoid...that will provide 12v to that terminal when you push the button and will cause the starter to crank. The key switch (as someone else said) only controls power to the coil...and it has to be "ON" for the engine to start. And....the starter will crank the engine even if the key is turned "OFF", so be careful there. (a candidate button switch at Napa would be an Echlin PP5006...maybe).

Dan

 

Thats a nice looking switch, I am thinking of using it for a horn button, I like how it can mount right in the dash because of the threaded portion.

 

Thanks for the info on this. It is 12 volt neg ground and I did polverize the voltage reg. As for the switch I'll have to check the back of it. We are going to work on the truck tomorrow so I'll let you guys know if we get it fixed. Its been awhile since I have done this and its about to drive me nuts. Thanks again for the help, Scott

 

Try these. They've been posted before plenty of times, a simple search should have found them.



These may be helpful too, also posted plenty before



Good luck, and remember, the search function is your friend

 

The 12V diagrams are OK, but all three of them have an error....the wire from the "I" lead on the starter solenoid should go directly to the coil "+" terminal. It is supposed to be a momentary circuit that bypasses the ballast resistor. As shown, the current from the "I" terminal would be routed through the ballast resistor...it won't hurt anything, but the design is supposed to provide a momentary full 12 volts to the coil for a hotter spark during starting.

Dan