I am using this starter:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-820048/
It has a builtin solenoid and the instructions that came with the starter recommend wiring it so that the internal solenoid is used and not the solenoid on the vehicle. It also recommends using the original solenoid on the vehicle as a junction box eliminating its solenoid function.

So I ran my positive cable from the battery to the solenoid on the fender and then ran a cable from the same post directly to the starter. I ran a wire from the solenoid side of the starter back up to the hot wire that comes from the ignition switch; and no go. If i connect the wire that comes from the solenoid side of the starter directly to the battery the starter will spin, but if I try to wire it to the ignition switch it won't.

I have power coming from the ignition switch back out to the solenoid (according to a test light), but it will not power up the starter. I broke my multi tester so I can't check the volts. Any thoughts or did I just confuse everyone.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

 

[QUOTE=tenforty_2;8287445]

So I ran my positive cable from the battery to the solenoid on the fender and then ran a cable from the same post directly to the starter.

This is correct! As long as it was on the side closest to the battery (input side of the solenoid)

Now, on the other side of the stock mounted solenoid, (output side) run a small ( 10 guage ?) wire down to the "S" on the solenoid on your new starter. Hit the key and you should be good to go as long as the small factory wiring is still connected to your factory ford solenoid.

Dont be tempted to run both wires to the new starter on the output side of the factory ford solenoid, it will work, for a while. Just dont do it.))

 

[quote=Riderman;8287543]Yea this is what I did, but it won't work. I got a new multi meter and checked some of the voltage. I was getting 11 volts back from the switch while in the start position (the small red wire that connects to the solenoid). I reworked my ground connection between the block and firewall and got it up to 12 volts, but it still will not crank with the key. Excuse my ignorance, but I have never been able to get my head around all of this electrical crap! I thought 12 volts was 12 volts! If I touch the small wire coming from the solenoid side of the starter to the battery (12 volts) the damn thing turns over. If I connect the same wire to the wire coming from the switch (12 volts) nothing!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

 

I have the same starter, I didn't use the fender solenoid and it worked first try. Maybe it would be best if you don't use the output from the old solenoid and run the small switch wire straight to the new starter?

 

[QUOTE=tenforty_2;8289293]OK, hear is the real deal. Hold your meter to the OUTPUT side of the Ford solenoid. That is the side the old large cable going to the original starter was attached to. Have someone turn the key to the start postition. If battery voltage is present, or better yet, a test light, lights, your Ford solenoid is probably good. I say Battery voltage, not just 11-12 volts. Measure your battery voltage between the posts. The voltage from the Ford solenoid output should be the same. Sometimes a DVM can mislead you. That is another discusion. With the key turned to START, not RUN, touching the small wire from the starter to the output side of the Ford solenoid should work. If not, touching that same small wire going to the starter from the battery spins the starter, then you have a bad Ford solenoid or the wiring connected to the Ford solenoid is wrong. There are two small factory wires connected to the bottom of the Ford solenoid. Are these reversed? One should have Voltage only when the key is turned to "start", that goes to the small terminal at the bottom of the solenoid closest to the battery, the "S" terminal.

There is a few more tips for isolating your problem. Dont give up, we can help.

For example, connect a jumper from the positive battery cable to the small S terminal on the Ford solenoid and see if, for one it clicks, two, you have proper battery voltage on the large output side... If not, replace the Ford solenoid.

 

I happen to think that the cab came off of an automatic trans truck and I remembered reading a thread on here a while back about a similar problem. With some help from another site and a close examination of the cab that I took off I found the jumper wire for the park safety switch. That was the problem! The truck thought it was in gear . Thanks for all of the help. As always you guys rock!!!!

 

I gatta know, did your old starter work before you installed this new one? (based on your repair, it could not have) Internet Trouble shooting just sucks sometimes. I assumed that it did and you were just replacing the old factory starter with a new Hi-torq. You might want to add next time what the deal is. No voltage to the (s) on the solenoid when the key was in the "start position" would have helped us go back to the primary start circuit, which would have led to your issue....I'll stop..............

 

Not just swaping in a new starter. I took the body off of a 2wd automatic trans truck and put it on a 4wd 4sp truck frame and the engine didn't come out of either truck. Now the starter(s) worked on both trucks before I tore them into a million pieces.