Hello! I have a 1971 Ford F-250 Camper Special Custom with a 360 Motor and 2 barrel carburetor. I rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the dashpot, replaced the valve cover gaskets and cleaned up the motor. However, I am still having issues with the smoothness of it running. When I turn the engine on, it sometimes just dies and I have to turn it on and rev it up for a period of time and then I can just let it idle. But also, it seems to be running to rich because when I have it running it smells of gasoline. I have tried adjusting the float and the air/fuel mixture screws but nothing seems to work. However, when adjust the float, I feel as though I am kind of playing a guessing game because most auto parts store no longer sell the specific tools to adjust them precisely, and I know they can be picky. haha. Also, one more thing I noticed with it that is completely different from everything else is that the brake pedal seems to be sticking. And it feels like I'm loosing a lot of power but I believe its because the brakes are being applied and rubbing instead of the tires just being able to move freely. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time!

 

Run your finger around the inside of the tailpipe. If it comes out black you are running too rich. Float most likely should be level with needle seated. Power brakes? Check for vac leaks. You can use a can of carb cleaner for this. Spray it around the base of the carb. Anywhere else you might be sucking air. Engine will change rpm if you locate one. Check the throttle plate for play.

 

Sounds like a choke problem (fast idle not working) that could be adjusted really rich as well. My Fairlane is doing the same right now have to keep the foot on gas til it warms up so I am installing a new carb with manual choke.

 

X2 sounds like a choke issue.

 

Yea...the only thing is, money is kinda tight for me right now so I dont really have the cash to go spend on a new carburetor, plus the minimum amount to convert my truck to a 4 barrel is about $575, that's with these: Edelbrock 2105K Edelbrock Performer Manifolds for Ford, Edelbrock 1405 Edelbrock Performer Carburetors (These are off of the Jegs website)

 

Also, just cause I'm a little bit proud of it, here's what I did to my engine:

Here it is when I first started on it. It had been sitting for about 10 years in my back yard and had caked on dirt.

Here it is after I took the valve covers off, sanded them, painted them, replaced the gaskets and same with the intake manifold.

And here it is with the new edelbrock air cleaner

This took me quite a while, but it was worth it. The main stages of this little project took me about 4 days to complete and I had a blast doing it too! It's all the same parts except for the new distributor cap, wires, valve cover gaskets and spark plugs. The reason for posting this is cause this is my first project and I'm proud of it! =) I'm only 18 years old and have had about 2 and a half years of training at school. =)

 

You pulled the intake? If so I would also be looking for vac leaks where it joins the heads.

 

I would start prowling Craigslist and junkyards for an Autolite carb with manual choke...not a fan of auto chokes. You could probably find one and get a basic choke cable kit for less than $50. Best way to test your carb adjustments/settings is pull and clean the plugs...but first compare them (color, etc.) to those on pages that tell you "how to read spark plugs" (do a Google search for this phrase). Put your cleaned plugs back in and run your truck on the highway for about 50 miles...highway speed. Go back to the house, let the truck sit and cool, then pull and "read your plugs." I would do this with the auto choke disconnected and the choke plate on the carb wide open. The color of your plugs after the run should tell you whether you carb settings are okay. Like others who have posted, I would suspect the choke. If it idles real smooth after it warms up a little, again with choke disconnected, your vacuum connections and intake seal are probably good...but wouldn't hurt to double check them...these old trucks will run sucking air, but they will run poorly and suck the gas with a vac leak.

 

I didn't pull the intake, I just sanded that down and painted it while it on the truck. But I will check the choke on it and see if I can adjust it maybe...I haven't really bothered with that, so I may try that. But would that cause it to run rich??? I thought that just controlled the amount of air that came into the engine...? Am I wrong...?

 

Ok fuel 101. If you have less air it means you have more fuel. The engine should be tuned for optimum performance with the choke wide open. The engine warmed up. So if that is optimum fuel to air ratio a closed choke makes the fuel air mixture rich. You are getting less air so your ratio is different.

 

[quote=Mashed Pwntato;10798696]I may try that. But would that cause it to run rich???,

Yes it will make it run rich, look on the choke housing it will have two arrows one to lean it out the other to make it richer. 3 screws losen and adjust it should have a little tension so when it starts choke will close and as it warms the coil spring inside housing will create tension and start to open up.

 

Ok, today I adjusted it a little, and it kinda ran a bit smoother, but not perfect. I'll play with it a bit more tomorrow because now with your guys' explanations I now understand how it works a lot more. Thank you! Also, I wanted to ask a few more questions though concerning some stuff actually inside the cab. I took a few pictures just to make it easier for me to explain:

Ok, so this is the brake light that is used for the emergency brake (all the way on the left):


This is what happens when you turn the ignition on and I dont get why it says on (on the left again lit up):


This switch is under the dash and right on the steering column by the brake pedal:


Thank you guys again for helping me! I appreciate it so much!

 

Is your truck an automatic? Column switch the neutral safety switch if so. Brake light try to pull the parking brake pedal up (while pulling on the release). If it can come up does the light go out when all the way up. By the way is this with the truck running or not? Should go off when running. If none of this works find the switch and check adjustment.

 

The truck is running, and I'll check that out asap. Sorry, I've been busy with school and other life issues lol.

 

The parking brake signal light was a very rare dealer installed accessory on these trucks. If it has it (which I doubt), the switch is mounted on the park brake control.

Look on the park brake control for a switch. If there isn't one, the light on the dash has nothing to do with the parking brake.

The plastic low brake fluid warning light switch (C8AZ-2B264-A) threads into the proportioning valve. It develops cracks in its threads, causing brake fluid to seep out.

When this occurres, the low brake fluid warning light on the dash comes on...and stays on.

All 1967/72 F100/350's have the switch and warning light. The C8AZ-2B264-A switch fits 1968/79 F100/350's, Econolines, Bronco's, 1968/69 Passenger Cars.

The 1967 switch (C7AZ-2B264-A) is one year only, fits everything...including Passenger Cars.

The steering column switch is: C7TZ-7A247-A .. Neutral Safety Switch (Motorcraft SW-600) / 1967/77 F100/350.