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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 09-07-2011, 05:31 PM
skooch21 skooch21 is offline
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96 F 250 NO START NO SPARK

i have a 96 f 250 with the 5.8L that will not start its getting all the fuel it needs but will not get spark. ive replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, ignition control module, and even the computer and it still will not get any spark. so i moved to the wiring and tested every wire the way i need to and none of the wires are broken, smashed, or touching anything, ive tested everything on another truck and it fires right up. i dont know what to do with it now
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:47 PM
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so noone can help me
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:01 PM
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Does the truck have a tachometer? If so, does it display anything while cranking the engine over? It should.....If not you can connect a test light to the coil, crank over the engine, it should blink.

Have you verified you have +12VDC at the coil with the key on? If you have 12VDC on the positive side of the coil do you also get the same on the negative side. Another quick test is to momentarily ground the negative side of the coil with the key on, you should get a spark.

If the tach reads nothing or the test light does not blink then you probably have a bad PIP (aka stator) in the distributor. This is assuming you have voltage at the coil. You have replaced darn near everything else, the PIP is the last thing left assuming the wiring is good. I realize you said you traced the wires, but without being there I have no idea what procedure you used.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:02 PM
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Got power to the coil?
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:06 PM
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Is the distributor rotating?
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Old 09-17-2011, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rla2005 View Post
Does the truck have a tachometer? If so, does it display anything while cranking the engine over? It should.....If not you can connect a test light to the coil, crank over the engine, it should blink.

Have you verified you have +12VDC at the coil with the key on? If you have 12VDC on the positive side of the coil do you also get the same on the negative side. Another quick test is to momentarily ground the negative side of the coil with the key on, you should get a spark.

If the tach reads nothing or the test light does not blink then you probably have a bad PIP (aka stator) in the distributor. This is assuming you have voltage at the coil. You have replaced darn near everything else, the PIP is the last thing left assuming the wiring is good. I realize you said you traced the wires, but without being there I have no idea what procedure you used.
the pip has been changed to and have 12v at the coil but the light does not blink
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Old 09-17-2011, 02:53 PM
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Is the distributor rotating?

yes the distributor is rotating im just not getting the test light to flash at the coil like its suppose to
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Old 09-17-2011, 02:56 PM
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ive tested everything i can. i have continuity in every wire i need. everythings getting the voltage it needs to start. ive tested every new part on another truck and it stilll runs but i just cant figure out wat is causing it to not spark
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skooch21 View Post
the pip has been changed to and have 12v at the coil but the light does not blink
Did you change the pip or did you just replace the distributor.
Check to see if you have a ground at the distributor plug. The distributor is the source of the ground for the Ignition system.
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:16 PM
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Did you change the pip or did you just replace the distributor.
Check to see if you have a ground at the distributor plug. The distributor is the source of the ground for the Ignition system.
its a brand new pip. there was no need to change the distributor. and yes i have my ground at the distributor
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:16 PM
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Below is the diagram for your ignition:
Click the image to open in full size.
Courtesy of FordFuelInjection.com

If you have verified the parts and all the wiring is intact then I suspect a bad PCM. I have also seen a few instances where the shield around the wires rubs through which shorts the signal(s) to ground. Usually there is a code associated with the problem.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:47 AM
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Hey my 96 just got out of the shop with the no spark no start as well. The mechanic replaced the ignition control module as well as a fuse to the ecm. Runs fine now. I hated to pay a mechanic to change these things out because they are simple. I was having trouble pin pointing the problem
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Old 09-29-2011, 01:19 PM
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perryau1996,
I hope he gave you your old Ignition Control Module as they very seldom go bad. I all so hope he replaced it with a Black one as a Gray one will not start and run as well.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:21 AM
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subford, no i didn't get the old one back and the new one IS gray. It's working so far. Am I headed for trouble?
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:55 PM
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It is the wrong one. It will set an error code in Computer Memory.
So if you live in a state the checks codes you will not pass.
The Gray one is not made for the computer you have so the computer can not control it right.
It will not start as easy, have worse MPG, put out more pollution, and you will not have as much power.
Other than that it will run just fine.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:55 PM
 
 
 
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