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new u-joint?

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Old 07-29-2011, 05:11 PM
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new u-joint?

can somebody give me some symptoms on a bad u-joint. im hearing a squeak-squeak- squeak-etc. at low rpms in first gear and in reverse. idk how else i can tell if i need a new so if i could get some help
 
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:42 PM
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Umm, squeaking, and then it goes away with speed. When it gets worse you get a vibration. You could also hear clunking. And probably the worst symptom of a bad U-Joint is not being able to move because you realize you threw your driveshaft.

To check it out get under the truck (in neutral I think? So chock the wheels!!) and see if you have some slop in the joint by moving the driveshaft. Sometimes you may be able to just tighten up the clamps on the yoke if they came a little loose or got some play. If the joint is bad you will need to replace it.
 
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:48 PM
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Block the truck (on level ground if possible), set the parking brake, put the truck in neutral (without motor running) get under it and shake the crap out of the driveshaft near each joint, that should pinpoint which one is bad.. Squeeking is a sure sign at least one of them is shot!!

Just to be honest with you, if you find one bad one the chances are the others are not far behind..
 
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:06 PM
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I agree with everything the others have said. Do one, do them all.

Another thing to look for when you are under there is you will usually see a lot of brown dust around a shot u-joint. It is the remnants of the ground needle bearings.
 
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:11 PM
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I've replaced the one closest to the rear diff many times, but the one near the transfer case only once. Must be due to the rear one seeing more mud and road grime. But yes, low speed squeak, brown dust, clunking, vibrations, even a snap sound when going from reverse to drive are all indicators of a bad U-joint.
 
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Old 07-30-2011, 10:04 AM
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yea ditto on above hahaha
 
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Old 07-30-2011, 10:18 PM
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You can shake the crap out of a drive shaft and still not see a bad U-joint. Believe me, it's my business. Check to see if it's the front or rear, pull that drive shaft out, work the joints back and forth and see any odd movement: REPLACE... As for just tightening straps / u-bolts, don't do it unless loose. Those straps / u-bolts should only be tightened to 25 pounds maxed. Over tightening the straps / u-bolts can and will distort the bearing caps!!! Another area to check is the centering ball / bearings in a double cardan joint. Lube all joints, even the ones that don't have zerk fittings.
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:31 PM
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thanks for all the input guys. the bearings in the joint at the rear are definitely dry so its not too bad now but i will probably replace it this weekend
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:45 PM
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Also, be sure to mark or scribe the driveshaft in relation to the yoke. I use a dremel or file to make a small scribe so that when it goes back, it's just as it came from the factory. Same goes for the upper and lower u-joints.
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Also, be sure to mark or scribe the driveshaft in relation to the yoke. I use a dremel or file to make a small scribe so that when it goes back, it's just as it came from the factory. Same goes for the upper and lower u-joints.
that really doesn't need to be done as long as you keep the drive shaft itself in phase. The diff yokes have very little to no effect on drive shaft orientation. But if it makes you happy go with it....Good luck
 
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