Bad Vibration
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Bad Vibration
I have been driving my truck for about a year and half and this problem started small and has become very annoying and bad. The truck will vibrate very bad while easy accelerating and cruising. When I get on it, the vibration seems to disappear or become almost unnoticeable. Also, it doesn’t vibrate at all when idling.
What could cause this?
What could cause this?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 448
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From: Edmonton, AB Canada
crawl under your truck in neutral on a flat surface, and block the wheels too. Grab the shaft and try and force it up and down in at each u-joint and see if there is excessive play in it. Judging from your symptoms i would almost be willing to bet it is a u-joint. They are not that hard to change and can be done with a hammer and a vice. It is very important to be careful when installing the new u-joint to not distort the needle bearings in the caps or the joint will bind and the caps will not go all the way in to the shaft.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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I do my own U-joints, But our local napa will press out and install new ones for a customer if they buy the the joints from them, I think they charge 8.00. Just an idea.. Maybe call a few smaller parts stores and see if they can help
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Auto Zone and other places will "loan" you a ujoint removal and instalation tool. If you also can use it with an impact wrench the job is very easy. Don't over tighten the Ubolts when you reinstal the driveshaft. Takes out the new u-joints really quickly. Don't ask how I know this.
Good Luck Frank
Good Luck Frank
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Edmonton, AB Canada
I prefer the hammer and vice trick, hammer to remove, vice to install. With an impact wrench a inexpirienced wrencher can easily mess up the caps and needles in them, since the impact puts out an extreme amount of torque fairly quickly. Dont ask me how I learned that. I have yet to mess up a u-joint bad enough to scrap it by using the vice, because a problem can be noticed before its too late.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
I'll speak from experience here. If the u-joints are old (like original to the truck or not much newer) you will probably need some extra torque from a press or something of the sort. I recently replace my u-joints and they were STUCK in there. Even a giant industrial press had to get some pressure on them before they went BANG!! and popped out. Now on the other hand, I just replaced my CB this weekend which involved taking one of my u-joints off so I could put my driveshaft in a press. This time around I was able to use a hammer and appropriately sized socket to just pound out the recently replaced u-joint.
Long story short, if the u-joints aren't TOO old, I would go the hammer and socket route. You actually don't even need a vice. When replacing the joint, hammer it in part way, install the retaining ring, keep hammering until it sits up against the retaining ring, then install the opposite retaining ring. Job finished. Let me know if thats confusing...
-Chris
Long story short, if the u-joints aren't TOO old, I would go the hammer and socket route. You actually don't even need a vice. When replacing the joint, hammer it in part way, install the retaining ring, keep hammering until it sits up against the retaining ring, then install the opposite retaining ring. Job finished. Let me know if thats confusing...
-Chris
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Doesn't sound too bad, my roommate has had some experience with replacing them. The only thing i am concerned about is that i think they are factory Ujoints and most likely have not been replaced, judging by the condition this truck was in when i got it. So hopefully i will not need a press to get them out.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Anything is worth a try. Sit your drive shaft on a real hard surface (concrete garage floor would work well), remove the retaining clips, get a socket on there JUST smaller than the opening for the u-joint so its a pretty close match, and give it a few good whacks. If it doesn't budge at all then I wouldnt hammer it too much. You will probably need some extra power at that point. Good luck.
-Chris
-Chris
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 480
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From: Elyria, Ohio
I just did the u-joint and driveshaft bearing replace to cure vibration and I found several powdered u-joint parts. Gor rid of a vibration at 35-40. However a vibration still occurred at 55-60. Above 65 no vibration. Last evening I replaced a wobbly fan clutch.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Originally Posted by rainbowATF
I just did the u-joint and driveshaft bearing replace to cure vibration and I found several powdered u-joint parts. Gor rid of a vibration at 35-40. However a vibration still occurred at 55-60. Above 65 no vibration. Last evening I replaced a wobbly fan clutch.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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This vibration does it come in the seat?? If it does it indicate drive line. when you say it come under load is it possible that the engine is missfiring to some this would be a vib if so i would take a spray bottle and mist around the ign wire and coil don't soak just mist then test drive under a load or if auto load up the engine and see if the problem i s their . If it is you may even see spark jump good Luck