I know this has been discussed a zillion times, but I didn't find any pictures on just "how to do it". So I made some yesterday (took the pictures that is)

I recently replaced my front end ball joints, and some other items and the tech that did the job was not eager to go get me the 90° zerk fittings for the upper ball-joint. Nor, did he offer to put in a standard zerk (one BJ was missing a std. zerk right out of the new box) from his tool box. No worries, I told'em I'd take care of it... as it was late, and we both wanted to go home (he was doing this work "after hours"). AND, I had already made a run to the local auto parts store for new front calipers. Oh joy! I wasn't going back that same night.

SO....
I read up here how the 90° zerks are such a close fit... there's some grinding involved. I thought, "grinding"?? Thinking to myself, that the zerk fitting probably doesn't have a whole lot of meat to grind on... and I'm surely not going to grind on my axle/u-joint knuckle! So, after further reading I saw posters talking about the zerk. So off into the garage I went, with spare zerks of course!!

I put them onto the stationary belt sander and ground until I thought I'd poke through, into the grease path. Nope... keep grinding. Hmmm... it took a while, and soon enough I was into the grease path. But, I was able to remove A LOT of material from the dome of the zerk. I didn't need much, as the clearance of the zerk to knuckle was just enough to shave the zerk down a bit (and thankfully not break it off when I tested how close it was). This "testing", put a small grind mark into my knuckle so now I could see where it was just that close.

Here's a comparison to the new zerk, and the ground down zerk;


Once installed, I made sure at slow hand turning speed... that the zerk didn't hit the knuckle anymore and had a bit of 'extra' room. NOT MUCH! But it had some, which was more than before. I then road tested it to see if I could get the knuckle to contact the zerk, or worst case... risk breaking off the zerk in the ball joint. Hey, I'm a risk taker! And no worries... it was all good to go!!

Here's that clearance I speak of (So close, but still plenty of room - you can see the previous grind marks in the knuckle);


I hope this helps any future Zerk Goers down the road. I could have just put the std fittings in, and bought the 90° fitting for the grease gun (as I read some do this method)... but, then I'd have to carry it around in my glovebox for those days I stop at Jiffy Lube. Now, anyone I have service the vehicle can access the BJ Zerks. Simple enough!

I also thought about the flush mount zerks, but those too... need a special needle grease gun attachment. And that would have to be made into a 90° tool too. Not very "user friendly" like a simple zerk as shown. Plus, I've read where many owners are using their 4wheel drive with NO PROBLEMS of clearance of knuckle and zerk. A no-brainer for me!

Enjoy!

 

Reps to you!

 

This is what I used to be able to grease my upper ball joints, makes like a lot easier. Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - RobRoss's Album: Grease Gun Fitting - Picture

 

Ya... I know about those, but then when you pull into the local grease joint... they'd have to have that fitting as well. OR, you'd have to ask them to use yours as you got it out of your glove box. NO NEED with the solution of grinding a tad bit, and the cost is only a couple bucks (I think I got 5 zerks in one bag).

... I like simple solutions, and a touch on the belt sander did it for me.

 

Great post! I have new 90 degree zercs in the front axles but can't get grease in them. Any suggestions? 2000 excursion

 

Why can't you get grease in them?

 

I installed new zercs and used a hand grease gun. I can get grease in all the other suspension/steering zercs but the ones at the axle ball joints will not take the grease.

 

Maybe you're not on the zerk completely or try another zerk?

 

I made sure the new zerc was clear. The hand pump grease gun wouldn't squeeze but it squeezed with the other zercs.