Looking at a 2005 Excursion

These trucks can do EXactly that: Pull a house & have everyone together comfortably. AS a general rule there's a few thousand required making it the best it can be,BUT truly there is no other option. Personally I'd not be looking at 6.0s but that's your call. If you are just going to let it sit & use it to pull a few times a year THEN definitely you should be looking at gassers. If you are unfamiliar with the 7.3/6.0 power plants THEN for sure do your homework 1st.
Do you have any details on the truck?
Pictures? The ad maybe?
The only thing you need to do is make sure you have a healthy 6.0.
That's the benefit of the FTE brotherhood; someone near you may be able to properly inspect the truck before you buy it as there are some potential issues the seller may be selling for.
When I bought my 2005 Excursion, it was in reasonable shape aside from having a clogged oil cooler and leaking EGR cooler. This is something you need to check for and can be easily done with a scangauge from autozone or amazon.
-You'll need to monitor the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) and the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) if there is a 15 degree delta or more, the oil cooler needs to be replaced and depending on where you live, you can delete the EGR cooler.
-You'll also need to have someone hook a gauge between the radiator and degas bottle to monitor the cooling system pressure. If it exceeds 16 psi quickly, your EGR cooler is leaking; if it exceeds 16 psi slowly, the heads are lifting.
-Monitor the FICM Main, Logic, and Vehicle voltage KOEO, cranking, and KOER. If the FICM main voltage drops below 45 volts (Ford spec) the FICM is damaged and must be replaced. Ed at FICMrepair.com does an amazing job at this with a great warranty.
-Should you find the engine itself in need of repair, Full Force Diesel is just one of the shops that can perform and oil cooler/egr delete job or the whole nine stud job. Expect to spend close to $4K for that kind of work, but to be honest, if the engine is healthy, leave well enough alone and just drive it.
Bottom line: The 6.0 can be an amazingly powerful engine that will meet the and exceed the demands of what it's asked to do or pull. The only caveat is did the previous owner take care of it.
The V10 is what's considered the poor man's diesel. It can pull down a house, just don't expect the same fuel economy as a diesel unloaded or towing. A V10 Excursion with 4.30 axles is the ultimate gas powered tow machine if you have a few steep grades you'll be pulling. If you have relatively flat roads around you, 3.73 gears will serve you well. Regardless, you just have to let the V10 rev and it will do the rest.
TD I can not believe that you would even recommend a 6.0 if it's going to sit around & not be driven a lot ?? That point is the one thing that I agree with oil burners on

"Just took my first camping trip with my 6,600 lb trailer and got 9 mph. I have a 2004 - 6.0 diesel. Is that average or low?"
Above posted on Face Bags & is a X
I have only put 50k on my V-10 in my nearly 6 years of ownership, it was a Government fleet truck that I bought with 65k miles on it. Other than oil changes and air filter changes the only parts failure was a fuel pump. I am due (actually a little late for...) for a plug change. 30+k of my miles have been towing either our old 31' 9,500lb toyhauler or our 41' 11,000lb travel trailer. A properly setup V-10 EX will be a little more thirsty than a diesel but it will get the job done with very little drama and great reliability.
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The reality is that diesel power costs more to make reliable, maintain and the initial purchase seems to still be higher. The miles on the truck DO matter. You will need to think about trans, front end and running gear maintenance at higher miles. Plan on putting a few grand in suspension (rear sway, ect) to get good handling.
Just my Junior 2 cents worth.
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The reality is that diesel power costs more to make reliable, maintain and the initial purchase seems to still be higher. The miles on the truck DO matter. You will need to think about trans, front end and running gear maintenance at higher miles. Plan on putting a few grand in suspension (rear sway, ect) to get good handling.
Just my Junior 2 cents worth.
Yes, no matter the power plant the miles do matter with everything else, but buying a minimum 11 years old 3/4 ton station wagon you should be prepared to do some required fixing due to miles and age.
While I am proudly biased toward the mighty V-10, I am NOT biased against the diesels, either one of them can be a fine mill with a huge amount upgrade potential if modding is your thing.
I can remember when I kinda felt that way as well. I mean heck, with the older diesels if you ran it to low on fuel you could almost Pee in the tank so as to drive an additional 10 EXtra miles. 100 K was unheard of in a gasses as well, BUT those days are LONG gone
Something about the pictures doesn't seem right to me.
What is drilled into the dash next to the steering wheel?
What is with those lights at the DVD screen.
Looks like the rear driver side door panel has been off for some reason...The clip is broken on the trim piece that the window switch is on. Maybe it was just to put on those chrome door handles or some other repair.
I thought the bolt covers on the rear seats are suppose to be a darker color on those trim models to match the darker color on the seat.
As long as everything checks out on it, I would pay no more than $12,000 for the truck. Adding in the $8,000 in just in case repairs and I would be completely comfortable at $20,000 for a truck that I know is good to go.
It looks like its had some front end action in the past as the chrome bumper did not come stock on the Eddie Bauer trucks. It would have been painted to match from the factory, so pay close attention there as well.
Welcome aboard, gas or diesel you'll love these rigs and this community!
Something about the pictures doesn't seem right to me.
What is drilled into the dash next to the steering wheel?
What is with those lights at the DVD screen.
Looks like the rear driver side door panel has been off for some reason...The clip is broken on the trim piece that the window switch is on. Maybe it was just to put on those chrome door handles or some other repair.
I thought the bolt covers on the rear seats are suppose to be a darker color on those trim models to match the darker color on the seat.
As long as everything checks out on it, I would pay no more than $12,000 for the truck. Adding in the $8,000 in just in case repairs and I would be completely comfortable at $20,000 for a truck that I know is good to go.
There also appears to be a switch in the padded surface to the left of the steering wheel..
Pics do look good!, but, a clever salesman wants to distract you from the not so good stuff.
Also, the interior really doesn't look right to me. There is no reason the bottom of the 3rd row should be coming off like that unless it has been redone. Just make sure you run the vin and get as much history as possible.













