Hello all.
I have a 63 F-100 (not unibody). Turn signals work correctly with lights off. Right turn signal works correctly with headlights on. Left turn signal stays solidly lit when it is used with headlights on. Have replaced the flasher relay, new taillight bulbs, new parking light bulbs, new headlights. Dielectric grease on all. Checked all grounds I can find at lights and under dash. Also when brakes are applied parking lights come on as well as brake lights ?
Another question. I am upgrading the odd one way front drum brakes to the MP brakes power front disk brake kit. On the original master cylinder there is a switch that activates the brake lights when the brakes are applied. This switch will have to be plummed into the new brake lines. Where should it be plummed in ? The new master includes a combination valve. Part of this valves function is to keep residual pressure on the back drum brakes. Each front disk brake needs a seperate line to the combination valve below the master cylinder. So should it go in line with the back brakes which will have residual pressure all the time or in one of the two front lines coming from the disc brakes ?
Or is it possible to put a switch that activates the brake lights as part of the brake pedal inside the cab ? Has anyone done this and if so what switch was used ?

Thanks for the Help.
Andy63...

 

Sounds like you have a bad signal light switch under the steering wheel. All your lights and brake lights feed thru that switch. There's most likely a short in it. if you've done all that you've listed, that pretty much covers it. All that's left is the signal light switch. A very common problem on the Ford cars and trucks in the 60-70's.

 

I'm putting a disc kit on my '62 from CPP and I plan on eliminating the hydralic brake light switch (just more places to leak). I haven't done it yet, but I'm planning on getting the pedal mounted brake light switch out out an early 70's model. I used to have a '71 and had to replace that switch and I think I can attach that style to the pedal with little trouble. And since I'm rewiring the truck anyway its not a big deal to run the wires.

Tyson

 

When I did my disc brake conversion I put a brass T fitting in the front brake line between the master and proportioning valve. This took the original equipment switch and if you put it close enough to the master the original wiring will reach.

Scott

 

As mentioned before, your problem is more likely under the steering wheel in the turn signal cam. There are two wire clips attached to the top of the cam that make contact with rivet like ends attached to the wiring. You can replace this or try bending the wires just a bit to make proper contact. I did this on my 64 to pass inspection.
The best bet on the brake light switch IS to mount one under the dash on the pedal. This way the lights are seperate from the signals. Some wiring will have to be done to make the signals work though.

 

Please tell me how you isolate the brake lights from the directionals. I am curious as to how this is done when there is only two elements in the bulb and one element is tail lights and the other element is used for directional/brake lights. I have also seen many of these pedal mount switches hang the lights on. I have never seen the hydrualic switch do this. Or had any leak for that matter. Why cludge the wiring harness if the original one will work. Especially if the master cylinder and brake lines are being changed. Now if all it takes is changing the end on the original harness to plug into the new switch then I can get in bed with that.

Maybe I am just getting old and don't like doing work under the dash. I guess you can always remove the cluster and try it this way.

Scott

 

I just installed the Master Power Brakes Booster and split master cylinder on my drum brake 63 F100. After talking to the local NAPA guys about the two 10 pound Residual Pressure Valves MPB dictates, I decided to try it without any-just Mcyl to brakes. It works very good that way. The only problem I had witth their kit was the lenght of the push rod was way too long. I had to thread mine all the way down, and cut off all but about 2 inches. I also could not get the rod to "point down" enough to get the 4:1 ratio recommended, so I'm running the factory location, which comes out to 6:1. I plan on getting rid of their firewall bracket to move the main unit back up to the firewall-which will require all new mounting holes and a new "stubby" rod, but for now it works great!

 

Nice looking 63 F100 Bikeit swift. I was wondering about putting wood in my bed as well. It has been repaired several times over the years and looks like a quilt in the front half. The plates have not rusted through the welds have and then the edges of the plates.
I have coming in the mail the MP power disc conversion kit. This kit comes with a combination valve located below the Master cylinder. I hope the rod ends up being the right length. Reading through info on there sight it says the combination valve has a residual pressure valve for the rear drum brakes and none for the front disc brakes. The question is where to place the brake light pressure switch. Does the original master cylinder where the switch is now have a built in residual pressure for drum brakes on the truck front and back ? If it does then the brake light switch will need to go on the rear brake line to the drums. If it does not then the switch will need to go on the front brake line to the new disc brakes.
Andy63...

 

I used no valves, and none were supplied. You will need proportioning valve if you use disc front/drum rear. I mounted my stock Ford stop switch in a "T" right off the front line exit from the Master Cylinder. Was a small problem because we couldn't get a "T" with the "flare" or "tube" 3/8 fittings to mate with the pipe thread of the brake switch. Ended going to a dual 3/16 compression fittings (which I don't like in a brake system) for the line, and a "T" to the srtop switch. I had to make up two 12" pigtails to plug into my stock wires, ten into the switch.

I used:
Two new pre-made 3/16 line (cheap) 5 foot
Plug for rear line exit out of stock junction down on frame
Union for new rear line to rear line
Replaced old line to Master Cylinder with new line from frame junction
"T" fitting-dual compression, T out to pipe (I'll replace this and that line when I find the proper with no Compression Joints)

 

Going back to the original ? about the turn signals. One other thing to try is to ground your drivers side tail light to your frame. Most wiring problems are very frustrating, and as simple as that to fix. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

 

I would bet my money on a bad ground.... most times when you have a light go out, such as a tail light, when you apply the brakes, or another light comes on, when the brakes are applyed, it is a bad gound.