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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 08:57 PM
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Brake pressure switch

So I have been trying to get my cruise control working for a while and with my AE I checked some switches today. Found brake pressure switch activated all the time. I do not have a switch on the master cylinder, truck is a 2002 F-550 manual 4x4. Also when I do a cluster bulb check the cruise light never comes on.

Could the pressure reading come from the ABS module behind the driver headlight? And if so how do I repair it? The module just has on large bail connector on the bottom and five lines up top
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 10:14 PM
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Not sure if F550 is the same, but I know f250-f450 have the brake pressure switch on the master cylinder. Maybe somebody changed out the master with 1 for a non-cruise control truck. You should be able to find the 2 pin connector (pictured) near the master. Even the trucks that did not have cruise control still had the plug in the harness. As long as the connector is unplugged, the pcm will read it as activated (canceling cruise). You can take a jumper wire to connect pin 1 & 2 to see if your cruise will work (pcm reads this as unactivated). If it does, then you will need to buy a master cylinder for cruise control trucks.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 10:25 PM
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Here is the location. Apparently it is the same on the F550 too.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Montanafisher
I do not have a switch on the master cylinder, truck is a 2002 F-550 manual 4x4.
What makes you say this? I have an F-550, and the BPA switch is exactly where erikloss pointed out in his earlier two posts.

Originally Posted by Montanafisher
Could the pressure reading come from the ABS module behind the driver headlight?
No. The BPA switch for the Cruise Control is not at the ABS module. It is at the master cylinder.

By the way, there is an important SAFETY RECALL on the BPA switch that applies to your vehicle. That switch is supplied with constant HOT, whether the truck is running or not, whether the key is in the ignition or not. Even when it is parked over night, there is power going to the switch. If your switch is on all the time, then that could mean the pressure membrane inside the switch has failed or is failing.

A failed membrane can allow fluid to flow within the electrical portion of the switch. Since the switch power is constantly hot, a fire can ensue, engulfing your truck into flames, and taking out any structure the truck is parked inside of with it. This has happened many times over the years... enough times for NHTSA to demand a recall on the original style of Texas Instrument pressure switch that was fitted to your 2002.

Because yours has already indicated signs of failure, it is imperative that you address this concern immediately, for your safety. Fortunately, there will be no cost to you if you take it to any Ford dealer to have it taken care of. They will replace the switch with a newer style, and add an adapter harness that will convert the existing harness connector to the purposely different connector of the new style switch. The adapter harness will be made up with fusible links for wires, which the original harness lacked... which led to the fires when the original switch failed and exposed brake fluid to constant hot wires.

The recall, called the "Speed Control" recall, due to the BPA's function in turning off cruise control when the service brake is applied, occurred in three distinct stages.

Stage 1. Disconnect. Literally, that was Ford's first solution. Bring your vehicle in to the dealer, and Ford's instructions to the tech were to disconnect the BPA, and tuck away the harness to make it difficult for the customer to reconnect it later. This action disabled Cruise control, rendering it inoperative.

Could it be that you are not finding a BPA at your master cylinder, because yours was disconnected at this earlier stage of recall, and was never brought back to the dealer to receive the either of the subsequent two stages of recall? Some people don't use cruise control, and therefore wouldn't miss it.


Stage 2. In this recall solution, Ford wouldn't change the faulty switch, but instead would add a fused jumper harness in between the switch and the original harness, so that when the switch did fail, the fuse in the jumper harness would pop, and presumably the truck wouldn't burn to the ground.

Stage 3. By this point, NHTSA had discovered, tested, and was able to replicate the failure pattern of the original switch. Finally, Ford provided a new switch, and, instead of a universal fused jumper harness, a new adapter harness with a weather and corrosion proof fusible link was included with the new switch.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 11:33 PM
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I am 100% positive there is no sensor on the master cylinder. I will have to look for a two wire connector. What are the wire colors?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 01:00 AM
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Try searching Ford speed control brake switch recall, here on FTE as well as google, and ye shall be rewarded with all the information already given, and so much more, including installation instructions and the Ford and Motorcraft part numbers for the kit in case you'd rather just do the recall yourself, for less than $20.00. I think I paid $16.00, about 8 years ago.

As for colors, look at the wiring diagram member Erikkloss already researched and posted for you, where it says, for *diesel F-250-550 , that the power circuit *361 is RED, and the signal circuit 307 is BLACK with a YELLOW stripe. See post #2 in this thread.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 06:21 PM
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Looked for the connection today but couldn't find anything. Searched under dash and found an extra switch mounted way up on brake pedal. Switch was out of adjustment and wasn't closing when pedal is realeased. Adjusted switch and traced wires back out to engine bay were they tap into main wire harness, looked factory.

Anyway someone must of replaced master cylinder at one point and rewired pressure switch into pedal mounted switch. Now all switches read correctly and cruise works.

​​
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Montanafisher
Looked for the connection today but couldn't find anything. Searched under dash and found an extra switch mounted way up on brake pedal. Switch was out of adjustment and wasn't closing when pedal is realeased. Adjusted switch and traced wires back out to engine bay were they tap into main wire harness, looked factory.

Anyway someone must of replaced master cylinder at one point and rewired pressure switch into pedal mounted switch. Now all switches read correctly and cruise works.

​​
That brings back an old memory I forgot about. IIRC Ford, had a cruise control retrofit kit they used to sell for these trucks. I think they used an extra pedal switch in lieu of the pressure switch. The pressure switch is just a redundant way to turn off cruise in case your pedal switch failed. The second pedal switch you have is the redundant safety switch.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2022 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
What makes you say this? I have an F-550, and the BPA switch is exactly where erikloss pointed out in his earlier two posts.



No. The BPA switch for the Cruise Control is not at the ABS module. It is at the master cylinder.

By the way, there is an important SAFETY RECALL on the BPA switch that applies to your vehicle. That switch is supplied with constant HOT, whether the truck is running or not, whether the key is in the ignition or not. Even when it is parked over night, there is power going to the switch. If your switch is on all the time, then that could mean the pressure membrane inside the switch has failed or is failing.

A failed membrane can allow fluid to flow within the electrical portion of the switch. Since the switch power is constantly hot, a fire can ensue, engulfing your truck into flames, and taking out any structure the truck is parked inside of with it. This has happened many times over the years... enough times for NHTSA to demand a recall on the original style of Texas Instrument pressure switch that was fitted to your 2002.

Because yours has already indicated signs of failure, it is imperative that you address this concern immediately, for your safety. Fortunately, there will be no cost to you if you take it to any Ford dealer to have it taken care of. They will replace the switch with a newer style, and add an adapter harness that will convert the existing harness connector to the purposely different connector of the new style switch. The adapter harness will be made up with fusible links for wires, which the original harness lacked... which led to the fires when the original switch failed and exposed brake fluid to constant hot wires.

The recall, called the "Speed Control" recall, due to the BPA's function in turning off cruise control when the service brake is applied, occurred in three distinct stages.

Stage 1. Disconnect. Literally, that was Ford's first solution. Bring your vehicle in to the dealer, and Ford's instructions to the tech were to disconnect the BPA, and tuck away the harness to make it difficult for the customer to reconnect it later. This action disabled Cruise control, rendering it inoperative.

Could it be that you are not finding a BPA at your master cylinder, because yours was disconnected at this earlier stage of recall, and was never brought back to the dealer to receive the either of the subsequent two stages of recall? Some people don't use cruise control, and therefore wouldn't miss it.

Stage 2. In this recall solution, Ford wouldn't change the faulty switch, but instead would add a fused jumper harness in between the switch and the original harness, so that when the switch did fail, the fuse in the jumper harness would pop, and presumably the truck wouldn't burn to the ground.

Stage 3. By this point, NHTSA had discovered, tested, and was able to replicate the failure pattern of the original switch. Finally, Ford provided a new switch, and, instead of a universal fused jumper harness, a new adapter harness with a weather and corrosion proof fusible link was included with the new switch.
brake pressure switch leak on 2001 f250 was replaced under recall. Cruise control failed within 3 months. Returned to ford they said the switch was bad. Replaced, cruise never worked again. Now switch is leaking fluid and connection shorted and is smoking. Took to ford and they want 600.00 to repair. I have it diconnected. Now. Will it effect my brakes operation. Cannot afford repair right now and is my only vehicle.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2022 | 02:52 PM
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Welcome to FTE, Trig59, this is a good home if you're looking for one to keep your truck running. You would be best served to start your own thread as many guys will pass by an older one. I can't imagine your leak needing a $600 repair on a DIY basis but I have no experience with this. So...get yourself a thread started and let's see what we can do to get you straightened out.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2022 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Trig59
brake pressure switch leak on 2001 f250 was replaced under recall. Cruise control failed within 3 months. Returned to ford they said the switch was bad. Replaced, cruise never worked again. Now switch is leaking fluid and connection shorted and is smoking. Took to ford and they want 600.00 to repair. I have it diconnected. Now. Will it effect my brakes operation. Cannot afford repair right now and is my only vehicle.
When you say "I have it disconnected", it isn't entirely clear what you have disconnected.

I will say this though... when Ford issued the very first (of three) recalls on this speed control brake apply sensor issue that covered millions of Ford vehicles, not just Super Duties, the original "fix" was to disconnect the membrane switch in the master cylinder, and leave customers hanging without the use of cruise control.

That's how much of a fire hazard a leaking switch was.

And you say yours is "smoking"???

Yes, disconnect what is smoking, or the only vehicle you have will be a burnt up shell that will no longer be driveable as a vehicle.

If the truck brakes operate when you press the brake pedal, then you're good to go. And stop.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2022 | 12:28 PM
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I think my e99 F350 has a Ford dealer installed cruise control, meaning the speed control deactivation switch (electric / mechanical) is in the brake pedal - not in the master cylinder!!
The switch apparently is discontinued part:
"F81Z-9D816-AA Switch Assembly (Speed Control De-activator)bracket and switch located on the brake pedal, w/dealer installed speed control"


I am taking the truck to a local dealer in couple of weeks to finally get the recall 09S09 taken care of.

They will probably just install the additional fuse harness as mentioned in post #4 above by Y2KW57, just like they did on our year 2000 Explorer many years ago.
That work did not impress me much which is why the F350 has been delayed so long!


Edit:
I pulled out the original brake light switch and found the correct Ford part number for my e99 F350 7.3L is: F87B-13480-AB and was able to order replacement switch without any trouble.
Not sure what the statement "w/dealer installed speed control" from official Ford parts site is all about?

Anyway, the contacts in-between connector 1 & 2 (stoplights) have obviously overheated & burned as can be seen in the photo below.




 

Last edited by arto_wa; Mar 18, 2022 at 11:57 AM. Reason: New Info
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Old Jan 24, 2023 | 11:10 AM
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Hey guys, new to me E99 doesn't have the safety harness for the BPA in the master cylinder, so I went to the dealer and have to leave damn truck with them all day for recall to be performed. I remember that you could buy the recall adapter harness somewhere and install yourself, and it was cheap like $15. I forgot where and/or part number, could anyone help? If that fails, off to the dealer it is for 1 day
 
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Old Jan 25, 2023 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by man-o-war
Hey guys, new to me E99 doesn't have the safety harness for the BPA in the master cylinder, so I went to the dealer and have to leave damn truck with them all day for recall to be performed. I remember that you could buy the recall adapter harness somewhere and install yourself, and it was cheap like $15. I forgot where and/or part number, could anyone help? If that fails, off to the dealer it is for 1 day
Just splice in a fuse on the power side of the switch. IIRC that switch has power even if the key is off and the switch would short out internally, then cause a fire. The fuse will prevent the fire from happening. Mine, which has the recall installed, just a few weeks ago started to leak and I bought a replacement switch with the adapter harness and all. Install was a simple unscrew the switch from the master cylinder, put the new one on, and then bleed the brakes. They needed a thorough flushing anyway, it had been at least five years since I had done that service.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2023 | 12:11 PM
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@man-o-war
I bought and installed this in 2010, and my truck has not burned to the ground yet.

 
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