Brake pressure switch
Could the pressure reading come from the ABS module behind the driver headlight? And if so how do I repair it? The module just has on large bail connector on the bottom and five lines up top
By the way, there is an important SAFETY RECALL on the BPA switch that applies to your vehicle. That switch is supplied with constant HOT, whether the truck is running or not, whether the key is in the ignition or not. Even when it is parked over night, there is power going to the switch. If your switch is on all the time, then that could mean the pressure membrane inside the switch has failed or is failing.
A failed membrane can allow fluid to flow within the electrical portion of the switch. Since the switch power is constantly hot, a fire can ensue, engulfing your truck into flames, and taking out any structure the truck is parked inside of with it. This has happened many times over the years... enough times for NHTSA to demand a recall on the original style of Texas Instrument pressure switch that was fitted to your 2002.
Because yours has already indicated signs of failure, it is imperative that you address this concern immediately, for your safety. Fortunately, there will be no cost to you if you take it to any Ford dealer to have it taken care of. They will replace the switch with a newer style, and add an adapter harness that will convert the existing harness connector to the purposely different connector of the new style switch. The adapter harness will be made up with fusible links for wires, which the original harness lacked... which led to the fires when the original switch failed and exposed brake fluid to constant hot wires.
The recall, called the "Speed Control" recall, due to the BPA's function in turning off cruise control when the service brake is applied, occurred in three distinct stages.
Stage 1. Disconnect. Literally, that was Ford's first solution. Bring your vehicle in to the dealer, and Ford's instructions to the tech were to disconnect the BPA, and tuck away the harness to make it difficult for the customer to reconnect it later. This action disabled Cruise control, rendering it inoperative.
Could it be that you are not finding a BPA at your master cylinder, because yours was disconnected at this earlier stage of recall, and was never brought back to the dealer to receive the either of the subsequent two stages of recall? Some people don't use cruise control, and therefore wouldn't miss it.
Stage 2. In this recall solution, Ford wouldn't change the faulty switch, but instead would add a fused jumper harness in between the switch and the original harness, so that when the switch did fail, the fuse in the jumper harness would pop, and presumably the truck wouldn't burn to the ground.
Stage 3. By this point, NHTSA had discovered, tested, and was able to replicate the failure pattern of the original switch. Finally, Ford provided a new switch, and, instead of a universal fused jumper harness, a new adapter harness with a weather and corrosion proof fusible link was included with the new switch.
As for colors, look at the wiring diagram member Erikkloss already researched and posted for you, where it says, for *diesel F-250-550 , that the power circuit *361 is RED, and the signal circuit 307 is BLACK with a YELLOW stripe. See post #2 in this thread.
Anyway someone must of replaced master cylinder at one point and rewired pressure switch into pedal mounted switch. Now all switches read correctly and cruise works.
Trending Topics
Anyway someone must of replaced master cylinder at one point and rewired pressure switch into pedal mounted switch. Now all switches read correctly and cruise works.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
No. The BPA switch for the Cruise Control is not at the ABS module. It is at the master cylinder.
By the way, there is an important SAFETY RECALL on the BPA switch that applies to your vehicle. That switch is supplied with constant HOT, whether the truck is running or not, whether the key is in the ignition or not. Even when it is parked over night, there is power going to the switch. If your switch is on all the time, then that could mean the pressure membrane inside the switch has failed or is failing.
A failed membrane can allow fluid to flow within the electrical portion of the switch. Since the switch power is constantly hot, a fire can ensue, engulfing your truck into flames, and taking out any structure the truck is parked inside of with it. This has happened many times over the years... enough times for NHTSA to demand a recall on the original style of Texas Instrument pressure switch that was fitted to your 2002.
Because yours has already indicated signs of failure, it is imperative that you address this concern immediately, for your safety. Fortunately, there will be no cost to you if you take it to any Ford dealer to have it taken care of. They will replace the switch with a newer style, and add an adapter harness that will convert the existing harness connector to the purposely different connector of the new style switch. The adapter harness will be made up with fusible links for wires, which the original harness lacked... which led to the fires when the original switch failed and exposed brake fluid to constant hot wires.
The recall, called the "Speed Control" recall, due to the BPA's function in turning off cruise control when the service brake is applied, occurred in three distinct stages.
Stage 1. Disconnect. Literally, that was Ford's first solution. Bring your vehicle in to the dealer, and Ford's instructions to the tech were to disconnect the BPA, and tuck away the harness to make it difficult for the customer to reconnect it later. This action disabled Cruise control, rendering it inoperative.
Could it be that you are not finding a BPA at your master cylinder, because yours was disconnected at this earlier stage of recall, and was never brought back to the dealer to receive the either of the subsequent two stages of recall? Some people don't use cruise control, and therefore wouldn't miss it.
Stage 2. In this recall solution, Ford wouldn't change the faulty switch, but instead would add a fused jumper harness in between the switch and the original harness, so that when the switch did fail, the fuse in the jumper harness would pop, and presumably the truck wouldn't burn to the ground.
Stage 3. By this point, NHTSA had discovered, tested, and was able to replicate the failure pattern of the original switch. Finally, Ford provided a new switch, and, instead of a universal fused jumper harness, a new adapter harness with a weather and corrosion proof fusible link was included with the new switch.
I will say this though... when Ford issued the very first (of three) recalls on this speed control brake apply sensor issue that covered millions of Ford vehicles, not just Super Duties, the original "fix" was to disconnect the membrane switch in the master cylinder, and leave customers hanging without the use of cruise control.
That's how much of a fire hazard a leaking switch was.
And you say yours is "smoking"???
Yes, disconnect what is smoking, or the only vehicle you have will be a burnt up shell that will no longer be driveable as a vehicle.
If the truck brakes operate when you press the brake pedal, then you're good to go. And stop.
The switch apparently is discontinued part:
"F81Z-9D816-AA Switch Assembly (Speed Control De-activator)bracket and switch located on the brake pedal, w/dealer installed speed control"
I am taking the truck to a local dealer in couple of weeks to finally get the recall 09S09 taken care of.
They will probably just install the additional fuse harness as mentioned in post #4 above by Y2KW57, just like they did on our year 2000 Explorer many years ago.
That work did not impress me much which is why the F350 has been delayed so long!
Edit:
I pulled out the original brake light switch and found the correct Ford part number for my e99 F350 7.3L is: F87B-13480-AB and was able to order replacement switch without any trouble.
Not sure what the statement "w/dealer installed speed control" from official Ford parts site is all about?
Anyway, the contacts in-between connector 1 & 2 (stoplights) have obviously overheated & burned as can be seen in the photo below.
Last edited by arto_wa; Mar 18, 2022 at 11:57 AM. Reason: New Info














