The best way to check amps going to the fuel pumps is disconnect the impact fuel cut off switch and use the amp meter in place of the switch. You will be reading the amps going to the pumps. On a duel fuel pump setup 7 amps is about right, with single pump about 3 to 5 amps.

On the newer vehicles with out a fuel return line the pumps will cycle to keep pressure at rated levels. Older trucks, they run all time the engine is running. Fuel pressure regulator sends excess back to the tank.

 

Hey guys
I know it's been a while since I posted a reply to your answers first of all I'd like to thank you all for the replays!!!
I don't know if any of you saw my post on the TFI relocating kit I got from fatfoxx.com which is a hell of a kit if you want your TFI to be cooler as all of you know it gets very hot when it's mounted on the distributer!
Any way I'm still having a problem with my 1986 Ford E-150 302 aod transmission it's got 144,000 miles
It's the same problem I've been having for years....
The engine dies when the weather is really hot and refuses to start, when the engine cools, it starts up, I'm having my mechanic check the fuel pump wiring for any issues which I suspect is the problem!
Today one if the mechanics at the shop broke one of the fitting of fuel filter reservoir this part is hard to get and I may need to get it from a junk yard....
I don't know why he didn't hook up a pressure gauge on the fuel rail instead of disconnecting the fuel line?
Any way, do any of you know where I can get this part number e-6tz-9k004-a

I promise to do an update once I find the problem if ever....

Thank you all very much

 

With 2 tanks and it does it on both sounds more like a bad PIP sensor.

 

Hey subford I have one tank before the rear axle

 

Still could be the PIP sensor if it is not the fuel pump or coil.