Been thinking about adding after market headers to my 460. I've read here and elsewhere that they are a good bang for the buck. I want to try a common set to start (i.e. not interested in the gold plated version just yet), say Hookers or Hedman or ?? Anyone want to give an opinion on these or others ? Thanks

 

I don't see either of those fitting out of the box.
Hooker shows applications '73-'79 (mechanical clutch) & 88-'95(EFI)
Headman doesn't make a set for manual 460's
The slave cylinder and front driveshaft use too much real estate on the drivers side.

The only option I know of is the Thorley 216Y1's

 

Jim,

According to Jegs these are suppose to work. I would want to ask them whether they work with the T19 Trans before ordering though.

Hedman 89280 Hedman Hedders Standard-Duty Uncoated Headers

Hooker Headers 6911 Hooker Headers Competition Headers

I currently have my truck all apart blasting the frame etc. Would be a good time to weld up a custom exhaust mod if I was inclined. This all started with removing the bed to replace the mid-ship fuel tank. It's funny how a small project grows into a mod isn't it?

 

The 89280 will hit the slave cylinder.
http://www.hedman.com/content/pdf5224.pdf
Check the application notes and you will see automatic transmissions only, your profile says 5 speed, but you claim a T-19, either way...

The 6911 may fit your application but I was under the impression they were 2wd/Automatic only.

Edit: Holley may have changed the bend since I last checked into them but my slave is plastic, I don't know if I'd want them too close.
"Call Hooker tech service at 270–781–9741 for additional information"

 

I have a BW T19. Sounds like you have the inside track on the headers Jim. Guess I can't do it with a low budget bolt on set. No biggy. It's only a toy at this point. Most of the engine builder types when talking 460 list long tube headers as the first mod for getting the power out of a 460. I was hoping to confirm that first hand with my unit.

 

Call Hooker/Holley and see what they say.
As I said, it has been a long time since I really researched it.

Headers should make a big difference, especially if you have done some porting.

 

They are not cheap, but I have liked my Stan's Headers. They are made with thick flanges and 14 gauge steel. They have survived Minnesota winter and they are on a truck with a 5spd.

 

Hedman does make a set for a 460/man trans setup, I have a set on my 86 and have for years. The part number is 89340. I know when I bought them they were the only supplier that actually listed a header for a manual transmission application.

 

Good information, thanks for sharing that.
I'd rep you if I could....

 

L&L is not cheap but they are an awesome product. I have had them on one of my trucks for 13 years without one issue

 

No idea what my headers are, but they're long tubes and fit like a glove with ZF5. Crusty old pieces I got for $20 from the guy I got my Dana 60 from.





If anyone knows someone who make shorties for these trucks I'd love to know, or a long tube with a very short collector. I have a married NP205 I want to put in my truck since I'm on my 5th NP208 and it doesn't sound happy. I only have one more spare NP208. The driveshaft from the 205 will hit hte collector and require creative routing. I could probably shorten the collector on what I have and make it work, but I'm worried aobut welding on them since they're so rusty.

 

cadunkle that is pretty creative routing of the exhaust there (outside the frame rails). I never thought about that but why not. With both pipes going down the right side inside the rails things get pretty tight. If you have more pics of that scheme send them my way.

Thanks for the replies. It's looking more promising!

 

Don't want to hi jack this thread, but are long tubes for top end or low end torque. I always thought the smaller tubing & short collectors were for low to mid range torque. On a stock 460 the smog humps removed are suppose to be the best mod even with stock manifolds.

Craig

 

Exhaust tuning for maximum horsepower involves some complex calculations in a normally aspirated engine.
Tube diameter, exhaust gas temperature, velocity and volume, local speed of sound, cam timing etc..
Generally- longer tubes and collectors benefit lower rpm's.
Smaller diameters will keep velocity up.
At least this has been my experience while tuning inline 4 cylinder motorcycles on the dyno with stock or street cams.
Scavenging and reversion are much more critical as cam overlap increases.

Compromises are made for production vechicles and almost any header is going to flow better than the stock cast iron manifolds found on our trucks.

 

Without a doubt if you had the inclination to port your heads that would add to the power output providing the porting is done correctly. I'm not at a place where I want to tear down my engine, but I am at a convenient point where reworking the exhaust would be easy. I'm in the middle of a frame cleanup (blasting with aluminum oxide) and preping the sheet metal for a repaint. Want to be ready to paint come Spring.