Truck specs are in my sig. I was able to replace the axle pivot for the drivers side axle no problem. However I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the bushing into the i-beam for the passenger side axle. I'm using energy suspension bushings so fortunately it does not have to be pressed in. The issue is I can't seem to lower the i-beam enough where the hole is that accepts the bushing to get the new bushing in. I need to get it down a good 3/4"-1" lower. And I can't pry it down anymore because the axle is at the point now where it's hitting against the top of i-beam. I've tried using a pry bar to lower the axle near the hole as far as a I can and then chock it with a piece of wood but it's moved as far as it would cause the axle housing is hitting against the axle. I tried placing a jack under the hub hoping that would angle the i-beam down enough I could get to the hole but the axle is hitting against the top of the i-beam and won't lower anymore. I'm stumped. Anyone have any tips? I really don't want to pull the axle to finish this.

The only other option I'm considering is removing the coil spring and then jacking the axle up so it sits higher and hopefully that would buy me enough clearance between the axle housing and the axle to then angle the i-beam low enough I can slip the bushing in. However, I'm not sure this would work.

So, to any of you guys out there who have 4x4 and replaced the passenger side axle pivot bushing without removing the axle, please enlighten me. I'm desperate.

 

I remember having trouble with this myself on my 89, but it has leaf springs, and I can't remember what I did. But I am wondering if you could pull the radius arm bushing loose, and push the axle toward the pass side. This would let the axle slide out of the splined joint, which would give you plenty of room. But I don't know how hard it would be to get the yoke to re-engage the splines when you went to put it back together. Also if you do this make sure the clamps on the rubber boot are cut so the rubber boot will slide off. I just use plastic wire-ties to clamp the boot back on.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to cross my fingers and pray the TTB gods will answer this post with the magical solution. From the search I did it seemed like everyone else was able to get them in without doing anything to the axle. Unfortunately they all just say the axle just dropped far enough. Hopefully they'll come up with a better explanation.

Also, I could use some advice with the correct order for installing the new bushings. I'm not sure I installed the drivers side correctly and the energy suspension instructions do not specify and they are closed until Monday (I'd like to get it done this weekend).

I'm still a little unsure how these Energy Suspension bushings get installed with the thrust washer. I have my old bushings out and the metal sleeve out. I notice you can only put the new bushing in the pivot arm from the front of the truck toward the rear. The bushing cannot go all the way through because the back side of the pivot arms hole is slightly smaller than the front. However, it seems if you put the thrust washer on the bushing and slide it up the bushing so it's behind the flange it seems to fit fine inside the pivot arm. HOWEVER, from what I'm reading I'm not sure this is correct. It seems the correct way is that you do NOT put the thrust washer on the bushing before putting into the arm. Instead you put the naked bushing into the pivot arm and then have to PRESS IT IN. Once it's pressed in there should be enough of the bushing exposed where you can then slide the thrust washer (smaller part of thrust washer goes against pivot arm BRACKET and larger part against the pivot arm) over that part of exposed bushing and now you're ready to jack the pivot arm up into the pivot arm bracket.

PLEASE, someone confirm what is the correct way to install? I'd like to get it done this weekend and energy suspension is closed on the weekends so nobody to call to clarify.

 

Here's a pic of the bushings.

Again, where do you put the red ring (thrust washer)? Do you press the bushing through the pivot arm and then put the washer on the exposed side withOUT the flange between teh pivot arm and the pivot arm bracket?

 

No idea what those red rings are for, i replaced mine with Moogs, and they do not have those. As far as the problem your having, Easiest thing to do is pull the clip that holds the top of the spring to the bucket, and the nut at the radius arm, and pull the whole 1/2 of the axle out from under the truck. I fought with mine for a week trying to get it in while the axle was still under the truck, and was able to complete everything in a day after i decided to pull it out. (also turned out to be a good time to replace the radius arm bushings) And this was on my silver 95, which has a 6" lift and a ton of room under there. I would hate to try doing this on a stock truck.

 

Alright well I think I figured out how it's supposed to be done. I ended up removing the coil spring and then placed a trolley jack under the hub and jacked it up. It's now low enough I can get to it no problem. However, now the trick is trying to figure out how to press these new bushings in. I used some of the all thread and some washers but it bent the washers and didn't go in at all. I think now I'm in need of a trip to HD to get a piece of steel and cut it out so it's be enough I can press this thing in but man I have my doubts.

As for the thrust washer it seems like they need to go on the on the side without a metal flange. it should fit between the pivot arm and pivot arm bracket. So i guess you press the new bushings in and then slip the ring over the bushing part you just pressed in and then pray to god it slips up into the bracket. BUT i' having a hell of a time getting anywhere trying to press this bushing in.

 

I do remember how I pressed the bushings in. I used a piece of all-thread like you mentioned, but I have access to a machine shop, and I turned out a cup and a thick washer to press them in with the all-thread. I have since bought a cheap press tool to install the balljoints from Harbor Freight, and though I already had changed the pivot bushings, the balljoint press comes with some interesting looking sleeves and adapters that could help you press those bushings in. If you have access to a balljoint press, I would see if it would work.

 

thanks franklin. i went to autozone and rented the ball joint press. however, i could not use the press because the coupling hole on the end of the press was too small to use to press the bushing in. however, i did use one of the presses washer-like components. it had a 1/2" hole in it and was concave so I when I put it on the all thread is only pressed in against the shell. man it takes a lot of torque to get those bushings in. one tip to anyone who might read this. be REAL careful the bushings are going in straight when you begin tightening things ups. also, when tightening things up around the all thread it presses in easier if you tighten up the side the metal shell is on. (so you're pushing it in instead of pulling).