1980 f150 2wd spindle mounted bushings
#1
1980 f150 2wd spindle mounted bushings
My front suspension and tranny (c 6) still remains on the bucket list for this 1980 xlt ranger 2wd 5.0 twin I-beam (forged) suspension. So far got inner and outer left and right tie-rods. The new tie rods 2 of the 3 don't have zirc fittings but rather also have a bigger more solid boot. Is this a cheap thing? or a new thing, cuz the old ones had zircs. Also, just tried to get some ball joints upper lower left and right because my lower drivers side has a slight bit of movement when checked for movement on a jacked up wheel. Side to side no but top and bottom you can see what looks like a ball joint lower of the two moving up and down. Just replaced axle pivot bushings and inner/outer control arm bushings. New springs too so this should wrap it up but come to find out, they have a 1-piece hub and spindle with a steering arm and knuckle built on and apparently require bronze bushings that get reamed. My question is I plan to eventually replace this spindle due to some cooked on races that I ended up grinding off and went too deep and left a small gouge 1/8" deep x 1/2" long. Would it be better to get 2 spindles that take ball joints? I've read that the bronze bushings last forever if you keep them greased. Thanks for any knowledge about these things you could pass on.
#2
The factory did not use grease fittings. The ones that have grease fittings have been replaced some time before. Your new ones don't have them which is unusual, but I would not worry about it. You could put some in if you really wanted to.
You may want to get the complete beams/spindles/hubs from a later model f150. In case you ever want to lower it, the lowering beams fit those later beam suspensions. It's probably your cheapest option also.
You may want to get the complete beams/spindles/hubs from a later model f150. In case you ever want to lower it, the lowering beams fit those later beam suspensions. It's probably your cheapest option also.
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If those are the normal brass bushings/king pin set, then I guess you know after they are pressed in they will need to be reamed by a shop that has the proper reaming tool? I have seen some kits lately that use needle bearings or plastic bushings, but the original way they did it as with brass bushings and they shrink(on purpose) when they are pressed in. To get that smooth slop free motion they need to be sized by a reamer after they are pressed in.
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#8
If those are the normal brass bushings/king pin set, then I guess you know after they are pressed in they will need to be reamed by a shop that has the proper reaming tool? I have seen some kits lately that use needle bearings or plastic bushings, but the original way they did it as with brass bushings and they shrink(on purpose) when they are pressed in. To get that smooth slop free motion they need to be sized by a reamer after they are pressed in.
What I did find strange is Ford (from this site) has 2 different KP's, 1 for power and the other for non-power brakes?
Dave ----
#9
The number he gave (262-1524) think is a NAPA number but when Google it gave me Stemco no ream king pin site http://www.cbsparts.ca/admin/vendor/Catalog.pdf
What I did find strange is Ford (from this site) has 2 different KP's, 1 for power and the other for non-power brakes?
Dave ----
What I did find strange is Ford (from this site) has 2 different KP's, 1 for power and the other for non-power brakes?
Dave ----
#10
Both of my trucks are 81's both have 300's both are sticks (FS 4sp granny/parts LWB SS 3sp OD) the parts truck is power the builder FS is not but every thing from the LWB (power brakes/front suspension) is going on the FS.
Just seams strange Ford would use 2 different king pins between the power/non-power trucks. Maybe wheels I can see but even still?
Dave ----
#11
If those are the normal brass bushings/king pin set, then I guess you know after they are pressed in they will need to be reamed by a shop that has the proper reaming tool? I have seen some kits lately that use needle bearings or plastic bushings, but the original way they did it as with brass bushings and they shrink(on purpose) when they are pressed in. To get that smooth slop free motion they need to be sized by a reamer after they are pressed in.
They're steel pins with a notch about 2/3 up for a bolt to get wedged in and nutted down. The bushings are bronze.brass and the pin doesn't fit them now because they do still need to get reamed. The bearing fits snugly around the pin and it comes with a grease seal and top and bottom caps that thread into their respective parts which have a bent and a straight zirc for bottom and top. Looking forward to this being done but will take my time and get it right.
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My truck also has zerk fittings in the tie rod ends. I know they are the original tie rods.
But I know on older Ford vehicles that we had that there many instances of screw in plugs
that were present in the tie rods that could be removed and zerks installed. I don't know
for certain that was done on my truck in the past but it could have been done at some
point when my Dad owned the truck.
But I know on older Ford vehicles that we had that there many instances of screw in plugs
that were present in the tie rods that could be removed and zerks installed. I don't know
for certain that was done on my truck in the past but it could have been done at some
point when my Dad owned the truck.