Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)Diesel Topics Only
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Hello,I have 1988 F-250 was was wondering if anyone else has had this problem with there truck. The ignition switch gets hard to turn if not impossible to turn in cold weather. Any help would be appreciated thanks
Last edited by 1970 Boss 302; 11-19-2010 at 03:41 PM.
Reason: added on to post
Yup, I've had that problem. My advice - don't force it or you'll break the tumbler on the ignition and have to replace your ignition switch. (oh and this really sucks because to replace it you need to get the key into a specific spot to pull the tumbler out. I had to disassemble the whole upper steering column to get the old one out)
It can also force your ignition switch (the actual switch part on the column) to slide out of adjustment leaving you unable to start your truck unless you jump the solenoid under the hood. This also will make your truck finicky to actualy shut in that key out in "off" is right next to "accessory" and a tap of the ignition lock or a big gust of wind will jiggle the truck enough to turn your radio on by itself (or anything else powered while in accessory potition)
I just added a push to start button to bypass having to turn the key all the way forward to crank. My guess is the lube inside the switch is dried out and getting stiff in the cold. The entire system (switch, rods, pivots etc) probably needs a good cleaning. I just haven't done it because the switch itself is kind of a pita to work on where it's at.
Down to about 10* isn't so bad.. it's the 0* and below that it gets REAL stiff
It is the column itself. There is a slide on the top that is probably binding up because it is worn out. You can replace that part of the column. The switch is actually down at the bottom of the column.
79/83/86/95 F-??? 6.9 4speed
94 350 4x4 SRW 7.3 factory turbo
1930 Model A Original
My wife has three of her own.
the proper way to fix it is to remove the steering wheel and clean it up then regrease it with white lithium grease.
the quick fix that sometimes works is to remove the key tumbler, spray a cleaning solvent in the tumbler and in the hole to clean the Rack and slider gear and then spray the lithium grease in the gears and tumbler.
i have had mixed results with the "quick fix"
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owner of almost too many fords.
I had this problem also not to long ago, I opened up the Column and it was all tore up in there. I would have to get a new Column to Fix my problem cause it went on for too long. I just did what Swoo did and Add a Push botton. Just turn the Key to on Position and Push the botton.
1997 F-250 Ext. Cab 4x4 PSD 5 Speed 7.3L
1996 F-350 Single cab 5 Speed 5.8L
1993 Ranger XLT auto 4.0L
2000 F-250 Ext. Cab auto 5.4L
I had the same issue. The ignition was difficult to turn and it wouldn't release from the start position. I would manually have to turn the key from start to run as soon as i felt it kick over. It was a pain in the *** and was a risk to my starter and flywheel.
I sprayed the key hole with graphite lubricant. It's the generic lock lubricant. It is light and won't cake up especially with the cold weather. Spray it let it work its way in for a minute or so. Put the key in. Rotate the ignition back and forth a few times. You should notice a substantial improvement immediately. Give it another quick spray and it should be good. It's a couple bucks, even it it doesn't work you can use the rest of the can on the locks on your vehicle and home.
1990 Ford F250 4x4, ZF5, L/S 4.10, N/A 7.3L Diesel, 568,808km/377,497 miles, still on the original clutch!
1989 Ford F150 300-6, C6, 2.73, 135,000km/84,000 miles.
1987 Ford E350 26ft. Motorhome, N/A 6.9L Diesel, C6, 3.54, 277,000km/173,000 miles.
1985 Ford E350 Ext Van, 6.9L Diesel, C6, 4.11, 670,000km/419k miles
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