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Try spraying some penetrating oil in the keyhole, let it sit for a while, then spray the oil on a key and insert and remove the key several times. If that doesn't work then try tapping on the column while trying to turn the key.
This is what happened to mine, but it was stuck in the ON position. When it snapped, wife was driving it. It died on her while turning right at an intersection. She lost all power brakes and steering. Lucky for her, she was going slow.
It's a pretty easy job.... You can see the button on the switch to press with a punch to get the switch out of the column...
I did take the steering wheel cover off when I did mine, two screws on the bottom. You are probably already thinking this: Take the new switch to a lock smith and have it keyed to your keys.
Also while you’re inside the steering column check the wires that come out of the gear selector lever for chaffing. I think there are 2 or 3 small wires coming out of the selector handle to a small connecter, wires are for overdrive. Mine were almost chaffed through, ended up replacing the gear selector handle. There is a write in here somewhere about this, it’s how I found out to inspect for the issue. If the memory is working this morning if chaffed, it will be right at the end of the selector tube where the wires come out. If the wires chaff through, overdrive will not engage.
The hardest part of the job will be getting to steering column cover to line back up correctly….
It's a pretty easy job.... You can see the button on the switch to press with a punch to get the switch out of the column...
Let us know how it works out…
Steve
You are describing the standard procedure for removing the lock cylinder which is all well and good expect the OP can not get his cylinder to rotate into the on position which is required for the release button be pressed in.
You are describing the standard procedure for removing the lock cylinder which is all well and good expect the OP can not get his cylinder to rotate into the on position which is required for the release button be pressed in.
True, forgot about the turning part to get the switch out.... So how does it come out if it won't turn? Wait... Once you press the button to release the switch dosen't the switch just pull out? It's been awhile since I have done it...
I bet a locksmith could finagle the key into working but if it is truly broken and a locksmith can't get it to work it will need to be prayed out and then you have a choice to make. Get a new steering column or go without a a secure lock cylinder.
I got it, as Gene Horr wrote penatrating oil and a little tapping on key wiggled something loose and I started the Ex.
Disconnected the negative battery post while running and turned off engine but left ignition switch in on position so I can remove.
Thanks everyone.
Side note for $40 I bought a new ignition switch on ebay. It will come keyed for my keys. All I had to do was send a photo of my key to him so he could key it. It worked great for my rear hatch key cylinder, hope it works for ignition.
Since I have 2 excursions I'm thinking of re-keying all the locks on one excursion to match other excursion. That way one set of keys will operate both excursions.
It will make life just a little easier and my key rings will be a tad lighter, helping with ignition switch wear.
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