help 1951 truck
#1
help 1951 truck
hi i have a 51 f1 with a chevy 350 in it (sucks i know but i bought it like tat)anyway none of the gauges work any help i want to use the oil pressure if i can,the gas gauge,the speedo and the battery....also the guy put a volare front end and its got power steering..the p steering works fine but the wheels have too much play...i let go of the steering wheels and the truck goes everywhere please help as i am not too mechanically inclined
#2
The best thing you can do is replace the chevy engine with a ford . Just kidding, my preference only. If you mean the original guages they were 6/volt pos. ,you have a 12/volt neg system now. To keep them I cant help but you can get the help here on F.T.E. The steering problem, I would take to a alighnment shop and see what they come up with. So I haven't helped you at all. JIM
#3
Gauges must match the senders. If using original gauges, you'll have to get stock gauges and do what you must to fit them to the sbc. Or go with aftermarket senders and gauges.
The steering problem - start at one end and work thru the whole system from steering box to tierod ends. The joints should all be stiff and difficult to move by hand with the wheels off the ground - use jack stands. Replace everything that moves too freely.
That's the best I can do from here. Not being mechanically inclined is a drawback, but if you're willing to learn it can be overcome. Good luck - ask specific questions as you go along.
The steering problem - start at one end and work thru the whole system from steering box to tierod ends. The joints should all be stiff and difficult to move by hand with the wheels off the ground - use jack stands. Replace everything that moves too freely.
That's the best I can do from here. Not being mechanically inclined is a drawback, but if you're willing to learn it can be overcome. Good luck - ask specific questions as you go along.
#4
#5
There's a couple of ways you can go with the gauges. As Jim mentioned, the original gauges are for a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. I'm assuming since you have been re "engined," you now have the 12 volt negative ground electrical system.
If you want to use the original gauge cluster in the dash then as Wayne mentioned, you MUST use the sending units designed for those gauges. AND, you must use voltage reducers of some sort to drop the 12 volts down to 6 volts.
There are a number of products that will do that. One is a small cube - a voltage "regulator" (reducer). It will reduce the voltage enough to use with all three of your electrical gauges (the ammeter does not require you to reduce the voltage and can be used as is). Here's a link on those:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/979515-gauges.html
The second type is the small "runtz" reducer which attaches to the back of each individual gauge. Here is a link to another discussion where I walk you through that installation:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...12-volt-2.html
But third, and probably your best option (if you don't want to hang aftermarket gauges under the dash), since it appears you don't have the original senders, and are not sure if they will fit on your "engine," is to convert the Temp and Oil gauges to mechanical using the works from modern, off the shelf, el cheepo, gauges. If you still have your original gas tank then the original sending unit is probably still installed in it and you can use that withthe "runtz" installation.
I have a write up with pictures on how to replace the electrical gauge works with the mechanical. If you would like a copy, you can send me an e-mail to: babbiebuddie@***.net Here's a picture of the gauge being converted and my cluster after the gauges have been converted to modern aftermarker mechanical gauges (note the mechanical temp gauge parks on "C" rather that "H" as the stock electric gauge does):
WRT the steering being loose, here is the latest discussion we had on that just a few weeks ago!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ering-box.html
Good luck!
If you want to use the original gauge cluster in the dash then as Wayne mentioned, you MUST use the sending units designed for those gauges. AND, you must use voltage reducers of some sort to drop the 12 volts down to 6 volts.
There are a number of products that will do that. One is a small cube - a voltage "regulator" (reducer). It will reduce the voltage enough to use with all three of your electrical gauges (the ammeter does not require you to reduce the voltage and can be used as is). Here's a link on those:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/979515-gauges.html
The second type is the small "runtz" reducer which attaches to the back of each individual gauge. Here is a link to another discussion where I walk you through that installation:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...12-volt-2.html
But third, and probably your best option (if you don't want to hang aftermarket gauges under the dash), since it appears you don't have the original senders, and are not sure if they will fit on your "engine," is to convert the Temp and Oil gauges to mechanical using the works from modern, off the shelf, el cheepo, gauges. If you still have your original gas tank then the original sending unit is probably still installed in it and you can use that withthe "runtz" installation.
I have a write up with pictures on how to replace the electrical gauge works with the mechanical. If you would like a copy, you can send me an e-mail to: babbiebuddie@***.net Here's a picture of the gauge being converted and my cluster after the gauges have been converted to modern aftermarker mechanical gauges (note the mechanical temp gauge parks on "C" rather that "H" as the stock electric gauge does):
WRT the steering being loose, here is the latest discussion we had on that just a few weeks ago!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ering-box.html
Good luck!
#6
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#8
#11
Ok Pictures:
The speedometer is on the right. You can see the threaded center post. The end of the speedometer cable screws on there:
Then it travels through the firewall hole loops back and is inserted - with the speedometer driven gear into the large hole in the transmission and bolted down - like this:
The speedometer is on the right. You can see the threaded center post. The end of the speedometer cable screws on there:
Then it travels through the firewall hole loops back and is inserted - with the speedometer driven gear into the large hole in the transmission and bolted down - like this:
#12
being a chevy swap i'll assume it's a chevy trans as well,,not sure if either of the cable ends are the same as your OEM was .. in any event if it's not most spedo repair shops do new cables to order,, you might need a old ford end at the spedo head and a late chevy end on the trans ..worst case you'll just send the 2 correct ends and a length distance and they should be able to make up what you need
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