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I did an egr and smog pump delete and ripped apart the engine bay to do gaskets and such. I need help with stray electrical plugs and vac lines. I appreciate any help. I should have taken more photos:/ This is the truck. 6 year project. Canister thing on passenger side firewall. Random vac t branch that comes out of wire loom on passenger side below canister. 2 ports on the fuel rail. Main branch in upper intake plenum. 1 large one in center which is the brake booster. 5 smaller ones around it. And a random brass fitting in a separate port to the right (painted black) and the tab,tad, and egr solenoids are already capped. Main egr plug to harness. Not sure what the other small one is. Random plug coming out of loom near fuel rail. Large plug coming out of fuse box.
Last edited by RoryMacLeod; Yesterday at 10:16 PM.
Plug for ac compressor Circle end goes to intake tree, arrow goes to canister in your first pic. Top is fuel pressure regulator. Vacuum line from it to intake. Bottom is fuel pressure test port. Put a tire valve stem cap on it.
[img alt="Red circle is throttle position sensor plug. Other end is on bottom of throttle body.
Other plug is idle air control valve.
VERY IMPORTANT!!! Red arrow is map sensor, vacuum line from it to intake tree"]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/920x2000/img_8670_c8fdf9dda1b4231b05cfa0dd0ec3ca849d67ddff. jpeg[/img] Red circle is throttle position sensor plug. Other end is on bottom of throttle body. Other plug is idle air control valve. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Red arrow is map sensor, vacuum line from it to intake tree
I did an egr and smog pump delete and ripped apart the engine bay to do gaskets and such.
Canister thing on passenger side firewall.
Random vac t branch that comes out of wire loom on passenger side below canister.
2 ports on the fuel rail.
Main branch in upper intake plenum. 1 large one in center which is the brake booster. 5 smaller ones around it. And a random brass fitting in a separate port to the right (painted black) and the tab,tad, and egr solenoids are already capped.
Main egr plug to harness. Not sure what the other small one is.
Random plug coming out of loom near fuel rail.
Large plug coming out of fuse box.
As long as that emissions “junk” was working I would have left it alone. How are you going to deal with the check engine light being on? Is the vacuum diagram under the hood no longer there? When I replaced the E7 heads with GT40 heads I kept the vacuum “harness” and vacuum reservoir (you will still need that either way) then capped the outlet side of the TAB and TAD solenoids and plugged them into the electrical harness. I also kept EGR functioning and never had a check engine light or codes in the computer. If you’re set on deleting EGR because the exhaust manifold doesn’t have the port then at least keep the EGR valve and sensor hooked up the solenoid with a piece of aluminum can between the valve and manifold to block off the port. That will keep the computer happy.
Canister thing is the fresh air/ recirc door. The vacuum hose is literally right there in the picture.
Since you got rid of the bundled nylon vacuum lines- that goes from the vacuum tree on the intake manifold to the MAP sensor
Same thing here- take the short red nylon hose out of the hose harness and run it from the fuel pressure regulator to the vacuum tree. Front circle is the fuel pressure test port. Stick a pressure gauge on there so you can pop the hood and check the pressure.
I can’t see what you’re saying. Is the “random brass fitting” at the rear of the plenum? That is for the pcv hose from the pass valve cover. Brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, vacuum hose to the HVAC and ? I’d have to see you vacuum diagram to see what I’m missing.
One plugs into the missing EGR valve. Did you plug in the TPS? What about the IAC? Is that plugged in?
Compressor field coil connector
Don’t know. Do you have a brake pressure switch on the frame rail?
As long as that emissions “junk” was working I would have left it alone. How are you going to deal with the check engine light being on? Is the vacuum diagram under the hood no longer there? When I replaced the E7 heads with GT40 heads I kept the vacuum “harness” and vacuum reservoir (you will still need that either way) then capped the outlet side of the TAB and TAD solenoids and plugged them into the electrical harness. I also kept EGR functioning and never had a check engine light or codes in the computer. If you’re set on deleting EGR because the exhaust manifold doesn’t have the port then at least keep the EGR valve and sensor hooked up the solenoid with a piece of aluminum can between the valve and manifold to block off the port. That will keep the computer happy.
Canister thing is the fresh air/ recirc door. The vacuum hose is literally right there in the picture.
Since you got rid of the bundled nylon vacuum lines- that goes from the vacuum tree on the intake manifold to the MAP sensor
Same thing here- take the short red nylon hose out of the hose harness and run it from the fuel pressure regulator to the vacuum tree. Front circle is the fuel pressure test port. Stick a pressure gauge on there so you can pop the hood and check the pressure.
I can’t see what you’re saying. Is the “random brass fitting” at the rear of the plenum? That is for the pcv hose from the pass valve cover. Brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, vacuum hose to the HVAC and ? I’d have to see you vacuum diagram to see what I’m missing.
One plugs into the missing EGR valve. Did you plug in the TPS? What about the IAC? Is that plugged in?
Compressor field coil connector
Don’t know. Do you have a brake pressure switch on the frame rail?
The entire emissions system was bad. Everything was rusty and the vac lines turned to sand as soon as I touched them. I took everything apart down to the intake to deep clean and paint / gaskets. Since I have headers going in and all my smog pump stuff was screwed anyways it seemed like a no brainer. I don’t really care about a cel and the truck is getting tuned after it’s all done anyways. I’ve heard mixed things about the egr electrical bypass plug. I’m making a block off plate for the egr port. It seems like some people do everything right and still get a cel. And other people leave plugs open and what not and get none. Some people use a bypass plug and messes up there whole truck. Other people had issues until they used one. Some people say egr and smog is mandatory other people say it’s stupid. Honestly can’t get straight answers anywhere I look so I’m just gonna find out myself I guess.
Federal law states it’s mandatory if the vehicle was originally equipped with it. State law will dictate if you have inspections for it. As for functionality, every vehicle is different just like the owners preference. If you have the computer tuned, that is the best way either way. A fully stock, fully functional emissions truck can still benefit having the computer tuned. You can remove and cap every vacuum line and the truck still scoot along, except the MAP sensor.
Federal law states it’s mandatory if the vehicle was originally equipped with it. State law will dictate if you have inspections for it. As for functionality, every vehicle is different just like the owners preference. If you have the computer tuned, that is the best way either way. A fully stock, fully functional emissions truck can still benefit having the computer tuned. You can remove and cap every vacuum line and the truck still scoot along, except the MAP sensor.
I live in bc. Canada. We don’t deal with emissions stuff where I live. Maybe in the big city. Up here police can issue your vehicle multiple levels of inspection. Usually only reserved for vehicles deemed hazardous to the road. Very rare to find an older vehicle with even a catalytic converter where I live.
So it looks like I have the canister port, the map sensor port
and another port on the fan box
The vac lines coming out of the harness have 2 ends looks like one reaches the fan box and then the tree
should I run 2 separate lines from the map sensor to the tree and from the canister to the tree?
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