Getting a lifted suspension back to factory ride height
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 257
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Getting a lifted suspension back to factory ride height
Hello! I started working on replacing ball joints and tie rod ends of my recently acquired 1995 F150 4x4. It is an extended cab and flareside. It does not have dual shocks in the front.
I believe the truck was lifted by the previous owner, and it has oversized tires. I literally don't know anything about how lifts are usually done, never had a lifted truck before and am not a very big fan of modifying the height.
I'd like to return it to the factory height with stock size tires. I measured the distance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender, it is 9 inches. Same story on the rear, 9 inches from top of the tire to wheel opening.
The compressed height of the coil spring is about 17 inches. It has rancho shocks all the way around. On the rear, each leaf spring has 5 leaves.
If the truck had taller springs put on, does that mean something was done to the bottom spring perch? Would I have to get new spring perches to make up for the difference in spring height?
I believe the truck was lifted by the previous owner, and it has oversized tires. I literally don't know anything about how lifts are usually done, never had a lifted truck before and am not a very big fan of modifying the height.
I'd like to return it to the factory height with stock size tires. I measured the distance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender, it is 9 inches. Same story on the rear, 9 inches from top of the tire to wheel opening.
The compressed height of the coil spring is about 17 inches. It has rancho shocks all the way around. On the rear, each leaf spring has 5 leaves.
If the truck had taller springs put on, does that mean something was done to the bottom spring perch? Would I have to get new spring perches to make up for the difference in spring height?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 1,932
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Post pics of your setup if you can!! You should be and to just replace the coil with factory ones to bring the ride height back down. They may have installed a spacer, that’s why the pic request.
When you say compressed height, are you referring to its natural seated position on the truck?
When you say compressed height, are you referring to its natural seated position on the truck?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,343
Likes: 294
From: Laramie, WY
What sized tire? Pictures would help. This might be an easy/cheap thing to change or might be more involved.
Rear is easy. It'll either have lift blocks or a set of lift springs. Same mounts.
Front axle usually has drop brackets if height is anything over a "level". If so you'll need to source a factory passenger side bracket (for the driver beam pivot) in addition to springs and shocks. Could have extended radius arms, that would require new factory arms and maybe mounts.
17" compressed spring height is on the tall side, probably a 4" lift but I can't say for sure.
Rear is easy. It'll either have lift blocks or a set of lift springs. Same mounts.
Front axle usually has drop brackets if height is anything over a "level". If so you'll need to source a factory passenger side bracket (for the driver beam pivot) in addition to springs and shocks. Could have extended radius arms, that would require new factory arms and maybe mounts.
17" compressed spring height is on the tall side, probably a 4" lift but I can't say for sure.
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2013
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I attached some photos of the front and the rear. I measured 17 inches the length of the spring with the vehicle sitting at its natural height. I think it would be a 4 inch lift?
There is a horizontal shock absorber attached to the drag link, I'm guessing that is also part of the lift? I would have to get rid of that as well to get rid of the lift, right?
I forgot to take pictures of the leaf spring hangars, they appear to be factory, I'll add some photos of those as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 1,932
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The shock absorber across the front is a steering stabilizer. It’s a good thing to have and no, you don’t have to remove it. Check the condition of the shock to see if it’s still good. If not, put a new one! It absorbs harsh jolts in the steering linkage from the road, example pot hole jerking the steering wheel.
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michaelmilburn
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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