Noticed a lot of oil that I thought was coming out of the CDR valve was actually coming out of the back of the valley pan behind the CDR valve. There's two large spots where it's rusted through. Needing some assistance on knowing the best place to get a replacement and gaskets. I'm going to go ahead and replace the CDR valve also.

Thanks,
Chad Mason

 

good luck, last i heard they were NLA and harder to find then a dodge cummings diesel owner without an attitude..

 

I've read that the valley pan gasket can be reused if cleaned thoroughly. While not ideal this beats paying $1000 for a gasket off of eBay that the seller probably sourced from a junkyard engine anyways.

 

Fortunately you can get them here:
https://classicdieseldesigns.com/pro...ley-pan-gasket

It's true you can re-use them, but once they're rusted out, they're no good.
You're in for a job. You have to remove the IP. Do not remove the gear housing cover. Just remove the inspection plate and unbolt it from there. There are 3, 8mm head bolts (you either need a 12 point boxed end wrench or 12 point socket to remove them). It's common for people who don't know better to remove the top timing cover, then they mess up their valve timing.
Remove the IP and the lines from the engine, remove anything else in your way up top, like fuel filter, glow plug relay etc.etc. Once the intake is clear, unbolt and remove it from the truck, along with the valley pan, and then clean everything up with brake clean and scrape any rtv away if any. Then install in reverse order. Search for intake torque specs and sequence.

Oh, haha I almost forgot. Since you have a 6.9l be sure to drain your coolant first!!! If you don't coolant will flow out (unlike a 7.3l) and spill into your base, forcing you to change your oil. If you just changed it, that could have you cursing. I would imagine, you just need to drain a gallon or so from the block. Just enough to get the level below the coolant passages, but I'm not 100%. If you want to be sure, just remove the drain plugs from the block (one on each side) and just drain it all out.

It's a job. Hard on the back too, cus you're bending over for so long.

 

HAHA. I saw a couple that looks like they were made for a 6.9/7.3 turbo. It has an extra hole, then you can get a grommet seal for a NA idi.

 

Thanks for the information. It definitely is hard on your back, that's why I'm teaching my son what to do and he can stay bent over that truck. haha I have replaced the IP already, just wished I would have noticed the hole when I had it off.

 

The shop manual specs a 1/8th inch bead of RTV front and rear.

 

Mark the IP position on the housing to retain the timing. Use a sharp instrument to make a fine scribe mark across where the pump joins the housing. Needs to be indelible so it won't wipe or wash off. I use a good quality 12point socket and a 3/8 Impact wrench for the gear bolts. I clean the threads with solvent and a small cylindrical wire brush (shotgun barrel brush) and put Blue Locktite on the bolts, then use the Impact to get them in nice and tight. After all of this work getting the manifold off, its a good time to inspect the lifters......
But still way easier than common procedures on a late model vehicle...
Excellent source on that pan and other IDI parts! Never knew they existed!

 

Use the Right Stuff gasket maker for that 1/8" bead on your "china walls."

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...224/10154936-P

 

That stuff is awsome!
A perfect, extremely controllable bead, no waste whatsoever. Can use it, put it away for 2 months, and its not clogged when use it again!
I've taken to keeping all of my gasket compounds, epoxies, glues, even rolls of tape, in a small refrigerator in the garage. Now everything lasts forever in Florida heat.