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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Broke down on the road.

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Old May 28, 2026 | 04:22 PM
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Broke down on the road.

Broke down on the road with my tools and car hauler with a car on. So my truck is 1986 F250 base model 302 automatic AOD. Before I had this problem I dropped the tank and changed the pump and sender because fuel gauge was not working only side saddle single tank then did intake manifold gaskets because had leaking valve covers carefully clean gasket surface put it back together set the base timing with timing light because I had dizzy out change the oil change the filter change the air filters check the PVC clean the throttle body remove the idle air solenoid clean that put it on with a new gasket change fuel injectors to stock made by standard put 93 octane to fill the tank for 40 Mi through Backwoods and then got up on the interstate truck ran beautiful sounded great pulled good plenty of power then it felt like a tire was going and the drive shaft started rattling and I was losing power so I hit a off ramp by the time I got to the top of it I couldn't make it to a gas station truck stalled I waited for a bit tried it still wouldn't start tried it a few more times started had power made it to the fuel stop checked everything out the best I could didn't find any issues so continue on my trip for another 186 miles Pulled up to an intersection At the red light Went to throttle it And Had the same No power issue and stalled Let it set a bit Finally started it back up But it would only idle so idle it into a parking lot then laid across the front seat got a few hours sleep after the thing cool down started it up it ran perfect plenty of power but beeline to a Walmart parking lot to check things out again by the time I got to next parking lot it did it again so I swapped out to new TFI made by standard So the problem's still there. Put a engine vacuum gauge on it Idles great looks good on the gauge soon as you hit the throttle it bogs if you don't let up it'll almost die when it's in park.. Scan the codes key off engine off 54 key on engine running 24 42/13 also sensor L inoperative everything stock on the engine except smog pump removed along with it necessary Hardware and no cat been like that since I bought the truck 8 years ago from previous owner.
 
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Old May 28, 2026 | 06:54 PM
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It sucks when you break down and to do it when on a mission with a loaded trailer really sucks.

What do the codes point to as I dont have a book what they point to?
I would check the fuel PSI and timing that the distributor did not move. Also check that the timing is advancing.
All I can think of at this time.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 28, 2026 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard Mechling
Broke down on the road with my tools and car hauler with a car on. So my truck is 1986 F250 base model 302 automatic AOD. Before I had this problem I dropped the tank and changed the pump and sender because fuel gauge was not working only side saddle single tank then did intake manifold gaskets because had leaking valve covers carefully clean gasket surface put it back together set the base timing with timing light because I had dizzy out change the oil change the filter change the air filters check the PVC clean the throttle body remove the idle air solenoid clean that put it on with a new gasket change fuel injectors to stock made by standard put 93 octane to fill the tank for 40 Mi through Backwoods and then got up on the interstate truck ran beautiful sounded great pulled good plenty of power then it felt like a tire was going and the drive shaft started rattling and I was losing power so I hit a off ramp by the time I got to the top of it I couldn't make it to a gas station truck stalled I waited for a bit tried it still wouldn't start tried it a few more times started had power made it to the fuel stop checked everything out the best I could didn't find any issues so continue on my trip for another 186 miles Pulled up to an intersection At the red light Went to throttle it And Had the same No power issue and stalled Let it set a bit Finally started it back up But it would only idle so idle it into a parking lot then laid across the front seat got a few hours sleep after the thing cool down started it up it ran perfect plenty of power but beeline to a Walmart parking lot to check things out again by the time I got to next parking lot it did it again so I swapped out to new TFI made by standard So the problem's still there. Put a engine vacuum gauge on it Idles great looks good on the gauge soon as you hit the throttle it bogs if you don't let up it'll almost die when it's in park.. Scan the codes key off engine off 54 key on engine running 24 42/13 also sensor L inoperative everything stock on the engine except smog pump removed along with it necessary Hardware and no cat been like that since I bought the truck 8 years ago from previous owner.
Chiltons trouble codes:
54 - ACT sensor circuit open
24 - ACT sensor out of self test range
42 - HEGO sensor indicates system rich
13 - RPM unable to reach lower test limit
 
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Old May 28, 2026 | 10:38 PM
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I would put a test light (or volt meter) on the coil positive. If the light dims, as the engine bogs down, it's a voltage supply issue, and this a jumper wire from the battery+ will get you going again.

Good luck, Jim
 
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Old Yesterday | 08:11 AM
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I'll throw out, have you checked for corrosion on the terminals that plug into those items. I replaced the coil terminals on my 86 a while back and a pigtail on another sensor for corrosion.

Are you still running the 302EFI ?
 
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Old Yesterday | 10:37 AM
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Did you forget and leave the Air Charge sensor unplugged from the intake manifold. I think it's up high on the plenum somewhere. Not sure if that would keep it from running though.
 
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Old Yesterday | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
I'll throw out, have you checked for corrosion on the terminals that plug into those items. I replaced the coil terminals on my 86 a while back and a pigtail on another sensor for corrosion.

Are you still running the 302EFI ?
it's a good point you're making about the coil terminals but it starts up and runs just fine but bogs down and if I don't let up on throttle quick enough stalls I have it narrowed down though thanks for your input yes it is a EFI
 
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Old Yesterday | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard Mechling
it's a good point you're making about the coil terminals but it starts up and runs just fine but bogs down and if I don't let up on throttle quick enough stalls I have it narrowed down though thanks for your input yes it is a EFI
Originally Posted by Franklin2
Did you forget and leave the Air Charge sensor unplugged from the intake manifold. I think it's up high on the plenum somewhere. Not sure if that would keep it from running though.
A couple of those codes that I mentioned LED right to the ACT sensor was plugged in holding well didn't see no chafed wires around it and checked it with ohm meter and tested bad so I'm going to replace thanks for your help
 
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Old Yesterday | 02:22 PM
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Deleted, post.

 

Last edited by Max Capacity; Yesterday at 02:43 PM.
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Old Yesterday | 02:34 PM
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Oh, I see that's the sensor near #6 intake runner, tucked under the air filter box. I have a photo of it somewhere.
https://www.google.com/search?q=air+...t=gws-wiz-serp


 

Last edited by Max Capacity; Yesterday at 02:42 PM.
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Old Today | 06:59 PM
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Hope the sensor gets you back on the road. If not double check that TFI module. I know you said you replaced it but ignition parts can be bad out of the box. Good luck!
 
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