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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

2 gauge battery cable & strap

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Old Yesterday | 07:40 PM
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2 gauge battery cable & strap

Green Mechanic Question;

I have a 1964 F100, 223 Inline six, and I replace the battery cables, negative and positive with four gauge. Should all the cables be two gauge?The original battery cables I replaced also look like four gauge.
After the negative and positive battery cables replaced, I would occasionally get a click, and lose power altogether. When I would receipt the negative cable can go either way. I would either get another click, or it would turn over.
And I read something about a two gauge strap?

Should all the cables be switched over to two gauge? I’ve had the truck for years, and it was running fine… Of course until I fixed it. Any links or info or appreciated.

Thanks,
rtcapo
 
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Old Yesterday | 11:38 PM
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Aahhh, the old "it worked until I fixed it" scenario, been there more than once myself.

If your battery cable length is not significantly longer than the originals then the original cable size should be fine. I write that, because amperage is lost over distance and if you have increased the length significantly, then that might not be carrying the load, thus the clicking noise. Furthermore, it is worth noting that not all materials will carry voltage or amperage the same, copper vs aluminium might also play a role.

Also, you might check the new cables for resistance, they should pretty much have none, but if one of the new cables has corrosion within the insulation, or the connector was not crimped correctly, that too could equate to a problem starting.

Also, it is worth noting, that if where the new cable is bolted to the chassis, and or motor, is not clean, it only takes a little bit of patina (corrosion) to cause power loss. I shared in another thread, that I was having trouble with my Fiat Ducato transport van. It was throwing codes, that the start stop function was not available, (something that rarely if ever worked since new) and in looking further the system implied electrical parts failure. Long story short, after much frustration and throwing some significant, but logical parts at the problem, it turned out that unfastening, and cleaning up all the ground points, solved the problem. In fact, now the start stop function works smoothly all the time.

Lastly, you might check to see if the alternator is charging correctly, that starter solenoid is functioning, and verify if the battery is not adding to the problem, along with all those connections as well.

Hope that helps, and iplease keep us posted as to what you find out.
 
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