6R80 Cooling lines
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
6R80 Cooling lines
Brian at FordTechMakuloco recommends changing out the cooling lines before they fail. I'm right about 90K miles on my '09.
I'm wondering if this is more of an issue where freezing and road salt are contributing or not. I live in S California far from the ocean. It's typically dry, no freezing and the truck is always garaged.
I saw some comments that the issue could be arising due to dissimilar metals in contact (aluminum and steel).
So, do I change out the lines preemptively? Also, what approach should be taken for future replacement (miles, years in service)?
I'm wondering if this is more of an issue where freezing and road salt are contributing or not. I live in S California far from the ocean. It's typically dry, no freezing and the truck is always garaged.
I saw some comments that the issue could be arising due to dissimilar metals in contact (aluminum and steel).
So, do I change out the lines preemptively? Also, what approach should be taken for future replacement (miles, years in service)?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 581
Likes: 72
From: Double Oak, TX
Here’s one of many threads on the subject, from another forum, I’ve done mine.
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/bullet...r-line-524747/
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/bullet...r-line-524747/
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
Here’s one of many threads on the subject, from another forum, I’ve done mine.
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/bullet...r-line-524747/
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/bullet...r-line-524747/
I think I will go with the approach of removing the crimp connectors and double clamping with high quality clamps such as Norma, running the hose directly up to the cooler. I don't like the idea of leaving the crimps and inserting barb connectors. I've seen those fail too often in other non-critical applications.A failure in my wife's backyard fountain just gets gripes from her. It's not like the risk of losing a several thousand $ trans.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 581
Likes: 72
From: Double Oak, TX
Here’s one more related thread, plus even more threads in post 7 of the link below,
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/friend...-lines-584645/
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/friend...-lines-584645/
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
Here’s one more related thread, plus even more threads in post 7 of the link below,
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/friend...-lines-584645/
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/friend...-lines-584645/
In any case, it looks like an easy enough fix with the rubber hose.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 403
Likes: 104
That's interesting about the vehicle that spent its time in Arizona. Probably drier there than where I live. Also, coincidentally, I contacted my nephew who works in the parts dept at a Ford dealer in central Ca. He checked with service guys there who also said they haven't seen this problem. Makes me wonder if the dealers don't want to admit it?
In any case, it looks like an easy enough fix with the rubber hose.
In any case, it looks like an easy enough fix with the rubber hose.
It is not going to happen to every truck. However, if it fails in 2-3% of trucks - that becomes a serious problem. There are actually two failure routes. The crimped shells can also split.My truck has traditional power steering. The line was replaced in the past per the records, and I see it seeping around the crimp, so I would probably look at another brand of hose. Seems the same company made both hoses.
The problem isn't always rust related, the pot metal can get fractures and fail. I would not buy the factory part because there is no improvement. Time goes by fast, you don't want to worry about this 8-10years from now.
Last edited by explorerdriver; May 11, 2026 at 07:53 AM.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
This generation is 12 years old and a problem like that is less likely to go back to the dealer. The parts guy can check sales of a particular part, possibly for a region or nationally.
It is not going to happen to every truck. However, if it fails in 2-3% of trucks - that becomes a serious problem. There are actually two failure routes. The crimped shells can also split.My truck has traditional power steering. The line was replaced in the past per the records, and I see it seeping around the crimp, so I would probably look at another brand of hose. Seems the same company made both hoses.
The problem isn't always rust related, the pot metal can get fractures and fail. I would not buy the factory part because there is no improvement. Time goes by fast, you don't want to worry about this 8-10years from now.
It is not going to happen to every truck. However, if it fails in 2-3% of trucks - that becomes a serious problem. There are actually two failure routes. The crimped shells can also split.My truck has traditional power steering. The line was replaced in the past per the records, and I see it seeping around the crimp, so I would probably look at another brand of hose. Seems the same company made both hoses.
The problem isn't always rust related, the pot metal can get fractures and fail. I would not buy the factory part because there is no improvement. Time goes by fast, you don't want to worry about this 8-10years from now.
I'm to the point of looking at which cooler hose to buy. I can get Derale or other performance hose that looks to have higher pressure and temperature specs than the generic Napa, etc. hose.
I also talked to my local hydraulics hose/adapters place about putting some type of compression adapter with a barb on the end of the steel line rather than just clamping the hose onto the line. Trade off of the barb will provide a more secure attachment for the hose, but it adds the failure point of the compression fitting.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 403
Likes: 104
Good points. Thanks.
I'm to the point of looking at which cooler hose to buy. I can get Derale or other performance hose that looks to have higher pressure and temperature specs than the generic Napa, etc. hose.
I also talked to my local hydraulics hose/adapters place about putting some type of compression adapter with a barb on the end of the steel line rather than just clamping the hose onto the line. Trade off of the barb will provide a more secure attachment for the hose, but it adds the failure point of the compression fitting.
I'm to the point of looking at which cooler hose to buy. I can get Derale or other performance hose that looks to have higher pressure and temperature specs than the generic Napa, etc. hose.
I also talked to my local hydraulics hose/adapters place about putting some type of compression adapter with a barb on the end of the steel line rather than just clamping the hose onto the line. Trade off of the barb will provide a more secure attachment for the hose, but it adds the failure point of the compression fitting.
You can also try to slide the tube over the bead, possibly file down the bead on the tubing a bit if it is too tight. 2 clamps on each side - even without serrations that would be something on a factory hose connection.
Last edited by explorerdriver; May 11, 2026 at 02:43 PM.
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 581
Likes: 72
From: Double Oak, TX
Good points. Thanks.
I'm to the point of looking at which cooler hose to buy. I can get Derale or other performance hose that looks to have higher pressure and temperature specs than the generic Napa, etc. hose.
I also talked to my local hydraulics hose/adapters place about putting some type of compression adapter with a barb on the end of the steel line rather than just clamping the hose onto the line. Trade off of the barb will provide a more secure attachment for the hose, but it adds the failure point of the compression fitting.
I'm to the point of looking at which cooler hose to buy. I can get Derale or other performance hose that looks to have higher pressure and temperature specs than the generic Napa, etc. hose.
I also talked to my local hydraulics hose/adapters place about putting some type of compression adapter with a barb on the end of the steel line rather than just clamping the hose onto the line. Trade off of the barb will provide a more secure attachment for the hose, but it adds the failure point of the compression fitting.
NAPA or Gates trans hose and some stainless clamps, an hour in your driveway with a dremel tool is all you need.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
Its not the crimp connections that you have to sweat, its the quick couplers snapping off. Of course the crimps need to be replaced as needed but the problem most suffered is snapped off quick couplers.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 25
That's interesting about the vehicle that spent its time in Arizona. Probably drier there than where I live. Also, coincidentally, I contacted my nephew who works in the parts dept at a Ford dealer in central Ca. He checked with service guys there who also said they haven't seen this problem. Makes me wonder if the dealers don't want to admit it?
In any case, it looks like an easy enough fix with the rubber hose.
In any case, it looks like an easy enough fix with the rubber hose.
I bought my 2011 last year in Paso Robles. Right on the coast. When I learned about this I carefully inspected the lines. I see zero signs of corrosion.
But now the truck lives in Virginia, and I may go ahead and do a preventive repair. In the interim, they got a good shot of Fluid Film.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 25
in my opinion, you’re wayyy overthinking it. Guys have been adding trans coolers to vehicles for many, many years, using standard hose and clamps. Even the black rubber hose Ford used between the metal lines is standard stuff.
NAPA or Gates trans hose and some stainless clamps, an hour in your driveway with a dremel tool is all you need.
NAPA or Gates trans hose and some stainless clamps, an hour in your driveway with a dremel tool is all you need.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 403
Likes: 104
I don't know about a few PSI. The pump can produce a few hundred PSI to lock clutches. By the time it circulates the pressure is much less but the NAPA ones are 400PSI rated. 50 would be max for those lines.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 783
Likes: 25
The pump pressure is not relevant to the coolant lines. Your 50 is closer than my single digit, but it's still well within hose barb and clamp range.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18967782