I’m a bit frustrated. I posted about this earlier this year. I was driving my 2005 truck on a 100 mile round trip. Truck ran great on the first leg of the trip. After my appointment, I noticed a long crank but the truck started. This was out of the ordinary. I made it 30 miles or so back to my home, when coming to a stop in traffic the truck just died. It would not restart and I had it towed home.

The truck has sat as I have been busy. Today I worked on it. Recharged both batteries to full. Removed IPR and inspected screen…fully intact and fine. Reinstalled. Cranked…and cranked and cranked. For awhile, zero ICP pressure. Then after extensive cranking it crept up to 2psi, 7, 15, and finally about 30psi before the batteries began to slow. Not making progress, I stopped.

What could it be? Engine base oil pressure gauge comes up to the middle during cranking. Bad HPOP? On a 2005? What would cause it to die while I was driving it? That’s unusual.

Thanks

 

I think I’d start with an air test and/or if you have a known good IPR swap that in.

 

I have the IPR from my 2003 F-550 but it’s a pain to get to. I don’t have the air attachment.

 

A third option to @Baylinerchuck 's advice is to take it to a shop. Without an air test, you will most likely keep guessing and spending. Getting the tools for an air test is cheaper than taking it in, but I agree that some of the 6.0L work certainly is a pain.

From what I recall on previous posts, you have used some aftermarket parts in this difficult adventure, and IMO it is likely to have "bitten" you (especially cheap o-rings).

 

You could be right Mark. I like to fix things myself though. We’ll see.

 

I hear you on fixing things yourself. That air testing is very important though.

I hate to see another IPR removal and installation on your plate, but it sounds very likely. The easiest way to do an air test is to add air at the ICP port and command the IPR closed. The difficulty comes in isolating the source of the air leak if the IPR is not closing completely. The ICP "test fitting" and a spare IPR connector are all you need, and not expensive (assuming access to 100-150 psi compressed air).

Sorry for your difficulties.

 

If you do have to remove/re-install the IPR, be sure to stay with the recommended torque value of 37 ft-lbs, the o-rings do the sealing. Over-torquing has been known to cause the valve to "stick". EDIT: 60 ft-lbs for upgraded standpipes and dummy plugs. Standpipe parts quality and installation procedure are where the most common issues with the '04.5+ HPO system issues occur.

 

If you apply 12v and ground directly to the IPR (briefly), what should I expect it to do? Or what should I hear?

Pretty hard to torque the IPR when you need a swivel just to get on it. I basically snug it is all.

 

Introduce air. You will hear it flow. Apply 12v (or even 9v, but 12 is better), and you will hear the air flow stop with a bit of a "click/pop" sound.

37 ft-lbs isn't a lot, but it is a bit more than a snug. Below is what 37 ft-ls looks like (being "close" is fine here IMO):

 

I’ll order the ICP air fitting.

 

I always use the IPR port for pressure testing the system. A visit to the workshop is more expensive than the test tool. So I always replace the screen and the o-rings when the IPR valve is removed. I also use a screw to push back the piston inside and clean the small holes with brake cleaner.

If it is older than 5 years / 100000km, I always replace it with an original part. The IPR valve is an important part in the engine ;-)

 

I agree, but if the IPR valve isn’t bad then why replace it? Testing from the ICP port will help determine if the IPR is leaking.

 

In my experience, a problem with the IPR cannot be diagnosed or cannot be diagnosed beyond doubt pressure testing via ICP port.

This test is more suitable for this









But of course you can test first as mentioned above. I just wanted to give you a recommendation

 

Just to be clear, testing the HPO system by air introduced through the ICP port was used by Techs for years for testing for leaks. That was before there ever was an IPR test fitting. The weakness of testing through the ICP fitting is most definitely in getting the IPR valve to close completely.

The OP was fairly adamant that he didn't to mess with the IPR valve again unless he had to. Thus the recommendation.

• First, when the IPR is commanded closed you need to listen for the "sound change" as described above.
• Then, if air is leaking (which it almost certainly will be for the OP since he clearly has an extremely low ICP), you need to listen very closely for air flow at the oil rails. Listen with a stethoscope at the oil fill port on the passenger side and then at the ccv port on the drivers side. You should take the valve covers off, for best results.
• If you hear leaks from one rail and not the other, then you know what to do.
• If you hear leaks from both sides, then it is probably the IPR valve, AND you could ALSO still have leaks at either or both rails (could also be an HPOP discharge fitting leak).
• A passing test is: no sound of leaks and it holds pressure.

There are things that can be learned from the test through the ICP, and it is the easiest test. Is it always definitive? Answer is no.

I agree that the test through the IPR valve port is best to start with, but that involves work the OP STATED he didn't want to do if he didn't have to. The test by the IPR test tool method only identifies a bad IPR valve by default. In other words, it's greatest value is for pinpointing leaks on oil rail components. If you have leaks on oil rail components AND you have a bad IPR, you will identify rail leaks and fix them, but you won't know that you still have a bad IPR valve until you put it all back together and still have a no-start from low ICP. Obviously this approach assumes that the OP does not have a way to bench test the IPR valve (which is an EXCELLENT tool to have)!

Each test has its place and its own limitations.

IMO, the OP has a bad IPR valve (as I postulated earlier), based on my dislike for the aftermarket on this component and its o-rings (in previous threads the IPR was stated to be non-OEM). That said, I also think it is very possible that the OP will also find that he has oil rail leaks also. Just wanted to express my thoughts, and that they are just guesses for now. Also, in previous threads the OP stated that at least one side of oil rail components had been replaced (not sure if parts were OEM or not), and that apparently helped for a while ....until this thread.

Anyway, I'll attach videos from DieselTechRon on testing through the ICP, and one on testing with the IPR tool.

Lastly, I do like the leak test through the IPR port the best, as you do @Hartwig .

But .................

IF the OP's issues involve rail components AND the IPR, if using only the IPR test fitting, this will require multiple rounds of IPR removal and installation.

Always love to hear your thoughts @Hartwig . Please let us know what you think.

 

DTR using the ICP test fitting:


Automedic Garage testing with the IPR tool:


Please overlook the fact that in the video above, the owner of the truck has an aftermarket oil filter and cap. PLEASE do not ever do that to your 6.0L. Stick with OEM - always!