1994 f150 5.8 ltr increase torque
#1
94 f150 5.8 ltr
How to increase . torque in a, 1994 f150 xlt 5.8ltr with 280,000 miles. I pull a 19ft travel trailer yrly an would appreciate help on how to increase torque
ie. engine, E40D, limited slip rear axle. in need to assist when pulling hills, I have massaged heads, intake an exhaust previously on small block chevies which has helped with performance. So am thinking of doing the same as well as tranny an the limited slip ratio
Thank you for all your help
ie. engine, E40D, limited slip rear axle. in need to assist when pulling hills, I have massaged heads, intake an exhaust previously on small block chevies which has helped with performance. So am thinking of doing the same as well as tranny an the limited slip ratio
Thank you for all your help
#2
#3
Welcome to FTE.
What axle ratio and tire are you running?
With that many miles you should probably consider a rebuild if you are going to open it up.
I think that will be a roller motor, so there might be a cam upgrade that would work with your EFI.
But, the folks who really know will be along as this is the place for your engine.
What axle ratio and tire are you running?
With that many miles you should probably consider a rebuild if you are going to open it up.
I think that will be a roller motor, so there might be a cam upgrade that would work with your EFI.
But, the folks who really know will be along as this is the place for your engine.
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#4
I have a 95 F250/E4OD/MAF/2WD. I had the same problem with a 11ft slide in camper. I put a Kenne-Bell supercharger to solve my problem. I highly doubt you are willing to spend that kind of money. With all the modifications I have done, I swapped out my 3.55 with a 4.10. Other than the supercharger, this was a noticeable improvement. I now tow a 10k lb now and I'm currently building a 408.
Keep your expectations low because you are not going to find an extra 100hp at the rpm you want. At least for the price I think you want to spend.
For me, the 280k is way over the hill and I would not feel comfortable towing anything with that.
Keep your expectations low because you are not going to find an extra 100hp at the rpm you want. At least for the price I think you want to spend.
For me, the 280k is way over the hill and I would not feel comfortable towing anything with that.
#5
A long time ago we had a customer with a similar problem. He had a truck that was similar to yours and then he bought a larger and heavier camper. It was really struggling and when we checked it out the factory gearing was a 3.55 if I remember right. I think that we dropped it down to about a 4.30 or so and then recalibrated the speedometer. It was like a different truck and he was very happy. He wasn't out to set the intercontinental speed record but he used it to tow back and forth to Florida from Missouri for several years with no problems.
Otherwise to greatly increase the torque at the same RPM you need to greatly increase the displacement of the engine. Or as was said in the post before this one add a supercharger of some sort.
Otherwise to greatly increase the torque at the same RPM you need to greatly increase the displacement of the engine. Or as was said in the post before this one add a supercharger of some sort.
#6
#7
With a .71 overdrive even a 5.13 gear isn't all that low in OD and it becomes a 3.64.
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#8
I had a 200k+ - mile 5.8L/AOD in my '89 Crown Vic with 2L73 (posi) rear, To give it more 'grunt (torque) to be a 'backup' tow rig to my 7.5L F-250HD, I decided to do a complete drivetrain revamp. The 351W was stroked to a 9.4:1 393W, the AOD was upgraded with 4R70W internal gearing turning it into a Wide-Ratio AOD (2.84, 1.55, 1.0, 0.70 ratios), and the rear was upgraded to 3L55 rear gears. I was able to tow a 2800-pound car on a 1400-pound trailer with no issues at all. I could have gone with 3.73s in the rear, but this was also my daily driver, and needed some semblence of gas mileage. I was getting ~17mpg with the 393/WR-AOD/3L55 setup.
#9
I've built a couple of 393's for customers who had Ford pickups and wanted more torque. I used a very small cam that's about 190 and 202 @.050 and the stock computers seemed to do just fine. Both customers were happy with the results but I wonder how much of a difference it actually made with an otherwise stock EFI setup. What cam did you use in your 393?
#10
'5.8LPolice Package' in the custom-ordered '89 Crown Vic LX (NOT a cop car!) was originally Variable Venturi '2-barrel' carb, and EEC-III controlled. Very primitive setup. 180 whopping horsepower with factory dual exhaust.
I built my 393W in 2007. My 393W was Eagle cast 3.85- stroke crank, KB364 22cc dish pistons and 64cc heads - the build originally used ported E7TEs, but found a pair of ported 64cc cast-iron World Windsor Seniors that improved things a bunch. Camshaft was initially a Comp Cams X4262H Extreme Energy 4x4 hydraulic flat tappet cam (.493/.512 262/270 adv, 218/226 @ .050) for increased torque, used 1.7 OEM Crane/Ford Cobra roller rockers to increase lift to .523/.544. BBK shorty headers (Fox body 351W swap headers), Performer RPM intake, Holley Street Avenger 660 carb. New Duraspark distributor triggering MSD box. Fox Mustang catted H-pipe, and full dual exhaust. Tuned properly, this combo actually passed Ohio's tailpipe emissions testing!
I daily-drove this for several years - even in Cleveland winters - and never had a problem. When the car became age-exempt from emissions testing, I dropped in a Comp Cams XR276RF-HR retro-fit roller cam (.545/.545 lift with 1.7 rockers), used a smaller crank pulley, and ditched the factory A/C, which really woke things up! Dragstrip - verified 360RWHP - that's twice the factory rating! Yes, it still towed a 4500-pound car/trailer just fine.
My basic 393W shortblock is the same combo my buddy used for his, waiting to be dropped into his '95 F250.4x4. He's using Ford Motorsport X303 aluminum heads, a Ford Motorsport roller cam, shorty truck headers, 351W Cobra EFI intake/throttle body, and a CA emissions mass-air conversion. (Mass-air conversion already done to the existing 230k-mile 5.8L) He's the ASE Master Mechanic that is helping with my '95 F250 7.5L's CA Mass-air conversion.
I built my 393W in 2007. My 393W was Eagle cast 3.85- stroke crank, KB364 22cc dish pistons and 64cc heads - the build originally used ported E7TEs, but found a pair of ported 64cc cast-iron World Windsor Seniors that improved things a bunch. Camshaft was initially a Comp Cams X4262H Extreme Energy 4x4 hydraulic flat tappet cam (.493/.512 262/270 adv, 218/226 @ .050) for increased torque, used 1.7 OEM Crane/Ford Cobra roller rockers to increase lift to .523/.544. BBK shorty headers (Fox body 351W swap headers), Performer RPM intake, Holley Street Avenger 660 carb. New Duraspark distributor triggering MSD box. Fox Mustang catted H-pipe, and full dual exhaust. Tuned properly, this combo actually passed Ohio's tailpipe emissions testing!
I daily-drove this for several years - even in Cleveland winters - and never had a problem. When the car became age-exempt from emissions testing, I dropped in a Comp Cams XR276RF-HR retro-fit roller cam (.545/.545 lift with 1.7 rockers), used a smaller crank pulley, and ditched the factory A/C, which really woke things up! Dragstrip - verified 360RWHP - that's twice the factory rating! Yes, it still towed a 4500-pound car/trailer just fine.
My basic 393W shortblock is the same combo my buddy used for his, waiting to be dropped into his '95 F250.4x4. He's using Ford Motorsport X303 aluminum heads, a Ford Motorsport roller cam, shorty truck headers, 351W Cobra EFI intake/throttle body, and a CA emissions mass-air conversion. (Mass-air conversion already done to the existing 230k-mile 5.8L) He's the ASE Master Mechanic that is helping with my '95 F250 7.5L's CA Mass-air conversion.
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