I have been doing quite a bit of research into 7.3l powerstroke upgrades. We have had multiple in the family for 10 plus years. They have always been bone stock except for one which we bought with a TS 6 position tuner.

Which brings me here after many years of just perusing the web browser on 7.3s and coming across this site many times reading up on various things. I like to think I know a lot but in reality the more I read sometimes the more confused I can get.

My truck in question is an early 1999 Ford F-350 7.3l dually (170.5 k miles on now). I swapped the PCM from a 2000 Ford F-350 7.3l which had a TS 6 position tuner attached. We had bought that year 2000 truck from an ole tug boat captain in Michigan years ago. Nonetheless, that year 2000 7.3l has been sitting so I decided to see if the PCM was compatible and my research showed it was so I put it into my early 1999 Ford-F350. All worked out fine and has been running with that PCM for over a year now.

Other thing that have been done to the early '99 is new 4R100 transmission after the OEM one blew around 160-165k miles. Also added a mishimoto 6.0 trans cooler, glowshift 4 gauge column kit, cleaned out EBPV valve and sensor, added sumospring helper springs, aftermarket radio and speakers. K&N oiled drop in filter as well. I am sure some of that does not matter but the more information is better just so the conversation can open up with more questions and concerns that I may not have foreseen.

Nonetheless, let's return to my burning question. What turbo and injectors should I upgrade to? I tow with the F-350 quite a bit (75% of its mileage is towing). I am not looking for the most HP. I want to resolve these concerns: Truck rolls lots of coal even on the 1st increased HP tune. Forget about the 2nd increase HP tune or even the 3rd! My EGTS run quite high when towing. I tow in Colorado and the steep grades and higher elevations really can do a toll on my EGTS. I have seen the EGT reach 1400 degrees for an instant before! Yes I can be pedal happy even when towing much to my chagrin (70-75 mph towing 6-8k pounds). One reason why I got the gauges all set up is so I can see how the stupidity of my pedal happiness is potentially messing up the truck. Yes I know trailer tires are rated for 65 mph. I ain't stupid, I am stupider because I know that.

I was wondering what turbo and injector combo would be best for me given what I do, what I need to control (EGTs) and what I want (faster acceleration, ability to keep up speed with no issue up steep gradients, and preferably if possible better MPG. These diesel prices are nothing to just write off and not think about).

Ok so here comes my unexperienced opinion. You don't need to read it if you don't have time because I probably don't know what I am talking about and what I want.

I was thinking about keeping my stock injectors and upgrading to a stage 1 KC300x turbo. I was thinking this would help with the excess coal I am rolling due to the rich fuel to lower air ratios in the higher elevation. Better turbo=more airflow=less coal rolling. Yes and no is what I think. The higher turbo upgrade you get the higher rpms needed for it to spool up. If I am towing, especially in higher elevations and steep gradients it will take me to get to at least 2000 rpms with a stage 1 KC300x as far as I know. Probably more rpms than stock turbo. That means if I only upgrade the turbo I will have lower power on the lower rpm side. Not sure if correct but let's continue.

For injectors. I was thinking keeping bone stock because I roll SO much coal for being stock injectors and stock turbo already. I seem to have plenty of fuel already! So why do I need bigger injectors? Well, if I upgrade the turbo the lower power end will lag behind. Not good when towing especially at lower speeds and accelerating onto the highway or around traffic if need be. This brings me into a conundrum. I want more power all around especially on the lower end (especially towing and getting up to speed). I would then probably need upgraded injectors. But what kind?

I hear 180/30 stage 1.5 single shot injectors are good but others say tuners have a really hard time tuning them correctly because they are oil pressure heavy or something like that. They also make a hell of a lot more smoke/coal from what I have read and seen in youtube videos. I don't want my precious diesel fuel to go to waste even if it looks awesome! I am more efficiency minded over rolling lots of smoke (which is cool don't get me wrong).

Long story short... why can't I find injectors that are like 150cc-160cc/10%-30% single shot? If I wasn't in elevations exceeding 6,000 feet then maybe I would be way more willing to go for a 180cc/30% injector upgrade but this thin air seems to get me into a conundrum!

Thank you for your time and advice. Any advice regarding this or anything else is welcomed.

 

It sounds like you probably need to send that T6 in to be reprogrammed to something more inline with what you use the the truck for. They sound way to hot especially for a tow pig. Any idea what mods were/are on the 00 to justify the tuning or was the ol' tugboat captain into sled pulling? It will likely need done if you do make any of the changes you're considering anyway, for sure if you swap injectors. They'll be a single shot injector and single shots have no road manners running on split shot programming. They will run but it's not really a pleasurable driving experience.

Edit: Here's some 160/30's and from the only builder you'll find recommended around here.

https://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/p...injectors.html

 

I don't know what mods or tunes are on the T6 at least for sure. I was but a teen at the time my dad bought the 7.3L. All I know is from the left to right it seems as if they are 1. Stock 2. 50-ish hp? 3. 75ish hp? 4. 100ishhp? 5. High idle (about 1100 rpm). I know it is ts 6 position but I think those 5 is all is switches too? Could be wrong but I am almost positive that is what it seems.

I agree on the reflashing. Especially since I moved from the midwest to Colorado with the thinner air and because I have no idea what the original tug boat captain owner had the chip flashed for. I only know he sold my dad the truck (the 2000 f-350) with a 5th wheel jayco trailer (around 38 ft) for 15k total.

I also heard about the reflash needed for the tuner when switching to single shot injectors. Just don't know what specific size injector I should get for my purposes (75% towing). I believe the trailer I tow is 3200 pounds empty weight ( 20 ft enclosed tandem axle). Could have up to 6k, maybe 7k pounds in there? Usually around 2000 pounds of cargo though for my usual jobs.

 

Yes I would start with some fresh tunes. Get the mods and pcm number to gearhead or Andrew aurther or Jody at dp. I know some aren’t a fan of Jody but I have had good luck with his stuff

 

Thank you for the link and reply!

 

Sounds like a plan stan. Appreciate it!

 

I also have an e99. I put the KC stage 1 turbo, upgraded (a little) to late 99+ injectors (AD/AE), and did up pipes, new 4" exhaust, bellowed up pipes, 6637 air filter (I'd recommend ditching the oiled filter), and all new boots on the inter coolers.

PHP Hydra with stock tunes, though next step is to do custom tunes for transmission.

I will get some smoke when running a tune, not much, in low RPMs when pushing the pedal down. EGTs generally stay where they should pulling 6% grade.

I considered doing bigger injectors too, but decided to stay close to stock but have a good running dependable truck. Fixing all the surrounding boost/exhaust items and going with PHP Hydra got me where I wanted to be without going down the rabbit hole.

Tough decisions, best of luck!

 

It does sound like you are good with stock sticks, ill add a vote to getting the tunes sorted. Reflashing the 6 position because you have it already, otherwise, most run a hydra. As far as upgrades on the turbo side, i really like my kc balanced assembly. It spools up around 1800rpm on my truck, if you want a whole new turbo, id consider the new one kc is releasing later this year, before i made a final decision.
I also would drop the oiled air filter. The 6657 is what i went with, but there are other, albeit more expensive options. I personally dont think the kn is a good choice for these trucks.

 

I like that idea about the late 99 injectors since they do have more cc's. I could possibly swap them from the 2000 sitting in the yard? Not sure but I will look into it and when I have some time inspect them and see if they are worth it to swap to my '99. The exhaust was recently done and my dad and I did not think about asking for 4 inch so that is a bummer there BUT I read somewhere that the 3 inch exhaust could spool up turbo at lower RPMs. Not sure but nontheless having to pay for an exhaust change is out of the question as we just had it replaced a year ago after one of the hangers rusted off and I backed it up into the yard and heard a crunch as the low hanging exhaust grabbed the curb.

I still need to figure out the PHP vs TS 6 tuner debacle. As far as I know they SHOULD be able to do the same crap. It is just reprogramming code for crying out loud but the TS6 could have limitations with changing that code compared to Hydra.

6637 air filter is a good option afaik but others say better to get AFE stage 2 or S&B. Maybe because they are enclosed air boxes and don't suck up the warm air from the engine bay?

I'll tell you what. There are so many factors in this equation it can get confusing.

 

Did not know KC is dropping a new turbo later this year! My priority is getting this tuner honed out then, that is what I have concluded. Then take a look at the new KC turbo when it drops and is tested a bit. Maybe swap the graveyard sitting 2000's injectors into the early 99 work truck but probably good for now. Just need to reflash tuner for sure.

 

What's to say those 00 injectors are stock? That might be your problem right there.

 

so the 00 is in the yard sitting. I'm using the early 99. Way lower miles and better shape.

The 99 I drive has stock injectors. Same as the 00.

 

What I mean is how do you know the injectors in the 2000 are in fact stock? If they're not or any other major upgrades have been done, then the chip would be programmed to support those mods that aren't on the 99 that you drive. Which could explain why the tunes seem so hot.

 

holy crap that's a good point. didn't even cross my mind. I am pretty sure the injectors were replaced by my dad as it has like 280k miles on it and at least 100k were put on it. Wow. I'm just assuming though. Thank you for bring this up. Only one way to find out is to take a look into the 00.

 

Start with a Hydra and better tunes, then my suggestion for you would be to move to a kc300x stage 1 and if new injectors are needed go with 160/0.