Oil pressure test on a 6.2?
#1
Oil pressure test on a 6.2?
Hello folks,
I have a 2020 model f350 with the 6.2L gas engine in it. 4300 miles or so on the clock, really low use with occasional towing, but lots of snow plowing. I was warming it up today and stepped back into my shop while it warmed up (living in Alaska, so rigs get a lot of warm-up time) and the rockers started clattering and it made a really loud whining noise I heard it inside the shop. I ran outside and the motor died right as I reached for the key, checked the oil, it was good and was changed within the last couple months, of course the "pressure guage" is an idiot light, but it was bouncing up and down, then it died.
This is not an issue I've ever seen before, but after thinking through it a bit, and doing some research I wonder if its a failing oil pump. So far the "powdered metal" pump gears are suspect in my mind.
Its a work truck, and may or may not be under warranty because of that (a federal gsa contract purchase) but since I'm in an alaskan village with no year-round road to it, and 240 miles to the dealer who is swamped post-covid....they don't even pick up their phones most of the time the last 2 years. Assuming the seasonal road ("ice road") gets put in this year thats about 3-4 months out, so it probably makes more sense for me to do the work.
I am the repair guy, so where the heck do you hook up a mechanical pressure guage on these things? I have done multiple google searches and can't find that info. Depending on what I can find out, I may just need to order a crate motor and put it in there, depending on how bad this turns out to be. Its my first work truck I have ever had since new, and so far I'm less than impressed lol.
Its a snowplow truck, and winter is on the way! Great timing.
Thanks for the help.
This sure makes me appreciate my old 7.5L!
I have a 2020 model f350 with the 6.2L gas engine in it. 4300 miles or so on the clock, really low use with occasional towing, but lots of snow plowing. I was warming it up today and stepped back into my shop while it warmed up (living in Alaska, so rigs get a lot of warm-up time) and the rockers started clattering and it made a really loud whining noise I heard it inside the shop. I ran outside and the motor died right as I reached for the key, checked the oil, it was good and was changed within the last couple months, of course the "pressure guage" is an idiot light, but it was bouncing up and down, then it died.
This is not an issue I've ever seen before, but after thinking through it a bit, and doing some research I wonder if its a failing oil pump. So far the "powdered metal" pump gears are suspect in my mind.
Its a work truck, and may or may not be under warranty because of that (a federal gsa contract purchase) but since I'm in an alaskan village with no year-round road to it, and 240 miles to the dealer who is swamped post-covid....they don't even pick up their phones most of the time the last 2 years. Assuming the seasonal road ("ice road") gets put in this year thats about 3-4 months out, so it probably makes more sense for me to do the work.
I am the repair guy, so where the heck do you hook up a mechanical pressure guage on these things? I have done multiple google searches and can't find that info. Depending on what I can find out, I may just need to order a crate motor and put it in there, depending on how bad this turns out to be. Its my first work truck I have ever had since new, and so far I'm less than impressed lol.
Its a snowplow truck, and winter is on the way! Great timing.
Thanks for the help.
This sure makes me appreciate my old 7.5L!
#2
Hello folks,
I have a 2020 model f350 with the 6.2L gas engine in it. 4300 miles or so on the clock, really low use with occasional towing, but lots of snow plowing. I was warming it up today and stepped back into my shop while it warmed up (living in Alaska, so rigs get a lot of warm-up time) and the rockers started clattering and it made a really loud whining noise I heard it inside the shop. I ran outside and the motor died right as I reached for the key, checked the oil, it was good and was changed within the last couple months, of course the "pressure guage" is an idiot light, but it was bouncing up and down, then it died.
This is not an issue I've ever seen before, but after thinking through it a bit, and doing some research I wonder if its a failing oil pump. So far the "powdered metal" pump gears are suspect in my mind.
Its a work truck, and may or may not be under warranty because of that (a federal gsa contract purchase) but since I'm in an alaskan village with no year-round road to it, and 240 miles to the dealer who is swamped post-covid....they don't even pick up their phones most of the time the last 2 years. Assuming the seasonal road ("ice road") gets put in this year thats about 3-4 months out, so it probably makes more sense for me to do the work.
I am the repair guy, so where the heck do you hook up a mechanical pressure guage on these things? I have done multiple google searches and can't find that info. Depending on what I can find out, I may just need to order a crate motor and put it in there, depending on how bad this turns out to be. Its my first work truck I have ever had since new, and so far I'm less than impressed lol.
Its a snowplow truck, and winter is on the way! Great timing.
Thanks for the help.
This sure makes me appreciate my old 7.5L!
I have a 2020 model f350 with the 6.2L gas engine in it. 4300 miles or so on the clock, really low use with occasional towing, but lots of snow plowing. I was warming it up today and stepped back into my shop while it warmed up (living in Alaska, so rigs get a lot of warm-up time) and the rockers started clattering and it made a really loud whining noise I heard it inside the shop. I ran outside and the motor died right as I reached for the key, checked the oil, it was good and was changed within the last couple months, of course the "pressure guage" is an idiot light, but it was bouncing up and down, then it died.
This is not an issue I've ever seen before, but after thinking through it a bit, and doing some research I wonder if its a failing oil pump. So far the "powdered metal" pump gears are suspect in my mind.
Its a work truck, and may or may not be under warranty because of that (a federal gsa contract purchase) but since I'm in an alaskan village with no year-round road to it, and 240 miles to the dealer who is swamped post-covid....they don't even pick up their phones most of the time the last 2 years. Assuming the seasonal road ("ice road") gets put in this year thats about 3-4 months out, so it probably makes more sense for me to do the work.
I am the repair guy, so where the heck do you hook up a mechanical pressure guage on these things? I have done multiple google searches and can't find that info. Depending on what I can find out, I may just need to order a crate motor and put it in there, depending on how bad this turns out to be. Its my first work truck I have ever had since new, and so far I'm less than impressed lol.
Its a snowplow truck, and winter is on the way! Great timing.
Thanks for the help.
This sure makes me appreciate my old 7.5L!
#4
From the OEM Svc Manual:
===================================
Oil Pressure Test
===================================
Oil Pressure Test
- Disconnect and remove the oil pressure switch.
REFER to: Oil Pressure Switch (303-01A Engine - 6.2L V8, Removal and Installation).
- Connect a commercially available oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure sender oil galley port.
- Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
- Run the engine at the specified rpm and record the gauge reading.
- The oil pressure should be within specifications,
REFER to: Specifications (303-01A Engine - 6.2L V8, Specifications). Minimum oil pressure at idle (engine at normal operating temperature) 8.0 psi ( 55 kPa)
- If the pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources:
- Insufficient oil
- Oil leakage
- Worn or damaged oil pump
- Oil pump screen cover and tube
- Excessive main bearing clearance
- Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance
- Chain tensioner leak
- Remove the commercially available oil pressure gauge.
- Install and connect the oil pressure switch.
REFER to: Oil Pressure Switch (303-01A Engine - 6.2L V8, Removal and Installation).
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#5
For work I am not generally doing in depth automotive stuff, that’s why I have a new truck! Apparently that logic isn’t working out for me too well today.
(Personal rigs that’s a different story.) My areas are generally everything else lol. Snowmobile fleet mechanic, snowplows, heavy equipment, boats, boilers, heating and well systems, and general construction, welding/fabrication etc. no desire to be an auto mechanic too, but necessity may dictate it this time.
(Personal rigs that’s a different story.) My areas are generally everything else lol. Snowmobile fleet mechanic, snowplows, heavy equipment, boats, boilers, heating and well systems, and general construction, welding/fabrication etc. no desire to be an auto mechanic too, but necessity may dictate it this time.
The following 2 users liked this post by Truckaholic:
#6
From the OEM Svc Manual:
===================================
Oil Pressure Test
===================================
Oil Pressure Test
- Disconnect and remove the oil pressure switch.
REFER to: Oil Pressure Switch (303-01A Engine - 6.2L V8, Removal and Installation).
- Connect a commercially available oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure sender oil galley port.
- Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
- Run the engine at the specified rpm and record the gauge reading.
- The oil pressure should be within specifications,
REFER to: Specifications (303-01A Engine - 6.2L V8, Specifications). Minimum oil pressure at idle (engine at normal operating temperature) 8.0 psi ( 55 kPa)
- If the pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources:
- Insufficient oil
- Oil leakage
- Worn or damaged oil pump
- Oil pump screen cover and tube
- Excessive main bearing clearance
- Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance
- Chain tensioner leak
- Remove the commercially available oil pressure gauge.
- Install and connect the oil pressure switch.
REFER to: Oil Pressure Switch (303-01A Engine - 6.2L V8, Removal and Installation).
#7
Thanks for the input, so far the problem developed into an engine full of schrapnel, I changed the oil and it looked like it was full of glitter. That wasn’t a great sign…so I put it on the trailer, hauled its sorry *** 240 miles to town in APRIL. The dealership claims Ford is back ordered on the 6.2, has done nothing to the truck, and refuses to say whether it’s a warranty issue or or the operation is gonna have to shell out 15k for the new motor they can’t apparently supply. There were 5 or 6 other ford trucks at the same dealer with blown engines-the tech I worked with let that slip -then quickly backtracked when I asked if its been a common issue….
Needless to say, I’m not terribly impressed with Ford right now. Since its snowplow season again and my truck is still out of service.
Regardless, friends with the same motor have had great luck with this engine. I must have gotten a lemon.
Needless to say, I’m not terribly impressed with Ford right now. Since its snowplow season again and my truck is still out of service.
Regardless, friends with the same motor have had great luck with this engine. I must have gotten a lemon.
Last edited by Truckaholic; 10-17-2023 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Text was wrong color for some reason...
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#8
Update on this, I just got my truck back. Engine was replaced under warranty. No explanation of what went wrong-but the engine was allegedly back ordered for over six months. Seems suspicious to me, especially since they didn’t want to talk about it. I did a 240 mile drive this weekend and the new one is running good. Hopefully this motor lasts longer than 4K mile lol. I’ve been using these 6.2 engine trucks since 2015 in superduty trucks and had nothing but good results with the power plants. This one was my first lemon. Hopefully that’s it for glitter in oil troubles though.
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