It must be Centurian day
#1
03-17-2019, 08:56 PM
It must be Centurian day
Hola, It has been a while since I posted. I used to have a 1990 F250 7.3 IDI, running around in Mexico.
For the last 3 months I have been hunting for a diesel pickup here in MX, a difficult task since diesels aren't marketed here. I just found a 1997 F350 powerstroke with 110,000 original miles in very good, ready for the road, condition. I bought it on the spot.
I believe it is a Centurion.model. How would I tell for sure?
#2
03-17-2019, 09:06 PM
#3
03-17-2019, 09:07 PM
Wow, that's very cool. Is there an emblem on the tailgate ? What does is say with "luxury" on the bedside? Any information in glovebox. Most conversion companies had papers with them . Most are long gone but it's worth looking.
also possibly check door jambs for company information to the converter.
also possibly check door jambs for company information to the converter.
#7
03-17-2019, 09:26 PM
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#8
03-18-2019, 09:41 AM
Logistics Pro
#9
03-18-2019, 10:49 AM
After all the crappy diesel pickups I have seen in the last couple of months, I can't believe that a low mileage truck like this is even in MX. It was imported in 2010 and has had one owner since. He even kept records of the oil changes and mileage.
I have been looking at photos of other Centurions online and believe I have one.
I am having the oil changed and radiator flushed. The transmission fluid looks and feels like new. I will pick the truck up on Wens. and start my 1000+ mile trip home to the Caribbean. When I arrive home I will know if I got a good truck or not.
This is my first powerstroke. Any things I should look out for?
I have been looking at photos of other Centurions online and believe I have one.
I am having the oil changed and radiator flushed. The transmission fluid looks and feels like new. I will pick the truck up on Wens. and start my 1000+ mile trip home to the Caribbean. When I arrive home I will know if I got a good truck or not.
This is my first powerstroke. Any things I should look out for?
#10
03-18-2019, 11:42 AM
Laughing Gas
Yes there was a recall that can cause an engine fire. Super easy fix, check this thread out it will inform you, it may have already been done on your vehicle so check out the thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-control.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-control.html
#11
03-18-2019, 12:12 PM
Lead Driver
Check my build thread for most stuff that will fail or need to be addressed. But off the top of my head -
Uppipes
Leaking fuel system
Converter/cooler/MLPS if auto, clutch/flywheel if manual
Glow system, at least upgrade the relay
Coolant/radiator/heater core/hoses
Oil leaks-a-plenty
Belt drive
HVAC
Most is really easy to do as you have time, at least the stuff below trans work. The truck is 25 years old, so it needs everything addressed really.
Lots of guys keep records for most everything. I do...vast majority do not.
#12
03-18-2019, 10:06 PM
Pilgram, Thanks for the speed control recall notice. I will take care of that.
Hitman, I look forward to reading your build post.
What fuel supplement, injection cleaners do you all use. With my IDI, I used tranny fluid to clean and cheap motor oil or 2 stroke oil to lube the pump. Same thing here???
Hitman, I look forward to reading your build post.
What fuel supplement, injection cleaners do you all use. With my IDI, I used tranny fluid to clean and cheap motor oil or 2 stroke oil to lube the pump. Same thing here???
#13
03-19-2019, 06:54 AM
ThingsToLookForWhenBuyingAUsedPowerStrokeDiesel
Turbo:You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...;=21&t;=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
#14
03-19-2019, 08:47 AM
Lead Driver
#15
03-20-2019, 10:09 AM
Knotty, I live in Mexico. We still use LSD. I am not worried about being "dipped". I am leaving on a 1200 mile trip today across Mexico. I would like to "clean" my injectors with something. So what would you use in the tank to clean things up? In my IDI I would fill my fuel filter with tranny fluid when changing.
Fordpride, thanks for the list. I already bought the truck but will go thru your great list once I get home. Muchos Gracias.
Fordpride, thanks for the list. I already bought the truck but will go thru your great list once I get home. Muchos Gracias.