Truck stalled out while driving
#1
Truck stalled out while driving
2002 F-250 7.3l I was driving my truck the other day, and while driving- it shut off! A little scary when in traffic and your power steering tightens up and you're trying to make to the side of the road!
Could not get it started after- it would crank, but not turn over. I checked fuses- they looked good. Ended up having it towed home. I checked, it appears that it's getting fuel. I did check the starter relay, I pulled it out and tried the fan motor relay- it started for a second- then died. Put the starter relay back in- started for a second-then died. At his point I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
Could not get it started after- it would crank, but not turn over. I checked fuses- they looked good. Ended up having it towed home. I checked, it appears that it's getting fuel. I did check the starter relay, I pulled it out and tried the fan motor relay- it started for a second- then died. Put the starter relay back in- started for a second-then died. At his point I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
#3
What kind of reaction are you getting when trying to start?
As in - WTS light working correctly? RPMs bouncing when cranking or no? Any smoke from tailpipe when cranking and what color if so.
With all the cranking, also be sure that your batteries have MORE than enough to crank it over. IIRC the truck requires a min 10.8 volts just to fire the injectors.
When you said it just shut off, my first thought was Fuel bowl heater but you checked fuses so that would of included the 30amp that powers the ECM & heater.
Not likely but an easy check/fix, check ALL connection to and from the batteries. Both ground and power. Clean any and all corrosion you may see. I had a no start issue awhile back and replaced batteries, starter etc. Finally did the cleaing bit and found that the corrosion on the solenoid terminals were causing my no crank.
I am sure others will reply soon with other options. Hang in there.
As in - WTS light working correctly? RPMs bouncing when cranking or no? Any smoke from tailpipe when cranking and what color if so.
With all the cranking, also be sure that your batteries have MORE than enough to crank it over. IIRC the truck requires a min 10.8 volts just to fire the injectors.
When you said it just shut off, my first thought was Fuel bowl heater but you checked fuses so that would of included the 30amp that powers the ECM & heater.
Not likely but an easy check/fix, check ALL connection to and from the batteries. Both ground and power. Clean any and all corrosion you may see. I had a no start issue awhile back and replaced batteries, starter etc. Finally did the cleaing bit and found that the corrosion on the solenoid terminals were causing my no crank.
I am sure others will reply soon with other options. Hang in there.
#4
From my personal experience, the truth is that if you're not monitoring fuel pressure, you don't really know that the truck is "getting fuel".
#5
#6
The injectors are oil driven so dont forget the IPR on the back of the oil pump. I haven't personally seen this issue but I know it seems to be a common one. Tin nut on the back of the IPR being loose.
#7
What kind of reaction are you getting when trying to start?
As in - WTS light working correctly? RPMs bouncing when cranking or no? Any smoke from tailpipe when cranking and what color if so.
With all the cranking, also be sure that your batteries have MORE than enough to crank it over. IIRC the truck requires a min 10.8 volts just to fire the injectors.
When you said it just shut off, my first thought was Fuel bowl heater but you checked fuses so that would of included the 30amp that powers the ECM & heater.
Not likely but an easy check/fix, check ALL connection to and from the batteries. Both ground and power. Clean any and all corrosion you may see. I had a no start issue awhile back and replaced batteries, starter etc. Finally did the cleaing bit and found that the corrosion on the solenoid terminals were causing my no crank.
I am sure others will reply soon with other options. Hang in there.
As in - WTS light working correctly? RPMs bouncing when cranking or no? Any smoke from tailpipe when cranking and what color if so.
With all the cranking, also be sure that your batteries have MORE than enough to crank it over. IIRC the truck requires a min 10.8 volts just to fire the injectors.
When you said it just shut off, my first thought was Fuel bowl heater but you checked fuses so that would of included the 30amp that powers the ECM & heater.
Not likely but an easy check/fix, check ALL connection to and from the batteries. Both ground and power. Clean any and all corrosion you may see. I had a no start issue awhile back and replaced batteries, starter etc. Finally did the cleaing bit and found that the corrosion on the solenoid terminals were causing my no crank.
I am sure others will reply soon with other options. Hang in there.
Does that mean that you saw fuel in the fuel bowl? The fact that it starts then dies sounds like fuel starvation to me. Can you hear the fuel pump running? Is the filter black and sludgy looking?
From my personal experience, the truth is that if you're not monitoring fuel pressure, you don't really know that the truck is "getting fuel".
From my personal experience, the truth is that if you're not monitoring fuel pressure, you don't really know that the truck is "getting fuel".
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Did it die suddenly like someone turned the key off, or did it loose power and sputter out? What's your fuel level? If it's below 1/4 and the fuel pick-up foot is broken, fairly common, it can suck air. If it sucks air enough to die while driving it can take quite a bit to purge all the air out of the system and get it going again. Even when it starts it might have low power for a while 'till all the air is worked out.
#10
#11
A bad ipr will act like that. Works when it cools down. Dirty oil caused mine to go out before I found out how important it was to change oil often.
How's the oil level? Low oil will cause a stall.
Broken fuel foot mentioned but it will miss some before dying. Did it sputter?
How's the oil level? Low oil will cause a stall.
Broken fuel foot mentioned but it will miss some before dying. Did it sputter?
I did try and start it again yesterday- it would start for a second- then die. now it's back to not starting. I have that P1280 code- which is the ICP. I'm going to try and look at that sensor after work today.
#12
#14
Was able to check it out yesterday- Pulled off the ICP connector to the sensor- she started and ran fine. Plugged back in the connector while running, and within a couple mins sputtered and died. I then tried starting up again - she would start, then sputter and die almost immediately. then unplugged the connector again- she started right up and ran/idle just fine. This leads me to believe I need a new sensor- even though there was no oil on the connector.
#15
You're probably right. Oil is just a common occurrence when they go bad. Believe me, if something is electrical it can go bad at any time and without any consistent signs. I've made a career out of broken electrical equipment. With electricity, just when you say it can't happen, it does.
You never answered 88 E-350's fuel level question. I've got a broken foot o my fuel pickup as well. It seems to be fairly common.
You never answered 88 E-350's fuel level question. I've got a broken foot o my fuel pickup as well. It seems to be fairly common.