Has anyone ever attempted to do a manual conversion on a Super Duty 6.0L? I'm having zero luck finding one in good condition in the CO area with a manual tranny. Tossing around the idea of doing a manual swap on an auto if I that's all I can find worth my dime.

 

Nothing is "impossible" with unlimited time, funds and interest into such a major undertaking. But to put it into perspective, I will list the known differences in parts between the automatic trucks versus the manual trucks to give you a clearer picture of what will be involved. Of course, a big factor will depend greatly on the quality of the "conversion" intended or desired. Do you want the end result to appear as though the vehicle came equipped as such when it rolled off the assembly line from new, or do you just want something that strictly functions without fretting over small details and could care less if it looks like a hack job?

Nonetheless, here are the KNOWN differences between the two applications. Beginning with interior details, the gauge clusters are different in that the voltmeter gauge takes place of the transmission fluid temperature gauge, along with the upshift indicator on the manual trucks (which is not present on the auto trucks). The PRNDL space is also blocked off with a cover. Then of course, there's the variation in trim level (XL/XLT and Lariat use different numeral graphics). Now on to the steering column. Manual trucks use a column with a key removal lockout lever and no BSI solenoid (Brake Shift Interlock) that the auto trucks use. The obvious brake pedal assembly is different too, while the manual trucks also have a CPP (clutch pedal position) switch as an input to the PCM ( to prevent/enable vehicle startup as well as "tell" the PCM if the engine is under load or not). Since we're on the subject of PCMs, the manual truck versions have the third plug blocked off (no TCM which is integral to the PCM on auto trucks). Now onto the transmission itself. Here's the deal breaker. The manual and auto trucks use completely different bellhousing bolt patterns. On these engines, there are multiple rear engine covers used, in order to enable the use of many different transmissions including your existing 5R110W auto, along with your desired ZF-6 manual which use a more circular pattern, to the medium duty application Allison automatics as well as the Eaton/Fuller manuals. To swap out the rear engine cover entails transmission removal (of course), along with the turbo and high pressure oil pump cover (the top of the rear engine cover is mated to and sealed to the rear portion of the high pressure oil pump cover). Now you will need the flywheel (which has the pilot bearing pressed into it) along with the different bolts which fasten it to the crank. So there you have it, the KNOWN differences. I'm sure there are likely more that I have missed. But hopefully this gives you a clearer picture of what this involves.

HOPE THIS HELPS.

 

Thanks m-chan68, I appreciate the help and perspective.