did my initial brake bleed a couple of weeks ago and all seemed fine... till yesterday. I've noticed a small drop of brake fluid on two or three couplings or fittings in the lines. Not enough to drip down on the floor... but it seems the fittings are 'weeping' ever so slightly. My worse estimate is that I've got a bad flare at that fitting... everything is at the 'it's gonna strip something' tightness... what do you gurus think ???

thanks
john

 

I am in no way a guru but I would back off on the fitting and retighten a couple times.
HTH, John.

 

I concur. If any of the fittings are brass check for hairline cracks.

 

I had the same problem. I used the copper/nickel tubing and flared them myself. I had a hell of a time getting a good looking flare. ( I blame the Flaring Tool !! )
I ended up tearing it all out and buying pre-flared straight steel lines from Speedway Motors and just bent them to what I needed.

 

The cheap flare tools can make good flares as much as the good flare tools can make poor flares. It takes a bit of practice and a 'it's right or it's wrong' mindset. If it doesn't look perfect, it isn't. Some peeps also don't know that they're supposed to be double flares. One more mistake is people that add thread tape and/or sealer to flared fittings - not necessary and sometimes gets in the way not to mention it's a first sign of inexperience to others. Over-tightening can also lead to the nut cutting through or deforming the flare. And never use compression fittings on brake lines. I've not been everywhere but everywhere I've been it has been illegal to use compression fittings on hydraulic brake systems.

 

originally I used a Rigid flaring tool and had a hard time also...went thru lots of tries. I've since upgraded to a Mastercool Hydraulic flaring tool and it is amazing...

guess I'll try Ray's suggestion first then start disassembling and re working... and it looks so pretty now

 

This is what I use , never had a flare leak or bad flare using it .
https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html

 

That's the one I use. I couldn't make a bad double flare even if I tried to.

 

I've got access to the hydraulic tools but I've been using a cheap tool, similar to what is sold at HF, for years. It's simple and easy plus I don't have to walk across the shop to get one.
Other thoughts of what could go wrong: Use a tube cutter. Hacksaws, etc don't cut square ends except by luck. Don't try to cut the tube in one or two spins, that's too much pressure. ALWAYS de-burr the inside of tube after cutting and a quick drag of a file across the outside edge never hurt a thing. If you have ever broken the pin from a 3/16" button it's because you didn't de-bur it properly. Something that helps is a touch of grease on the tube and/or tool before flaring.

 

i bought the eastwood one as well and it's about as easy as it can get. It's harder to cut and deburr the tube!

I will say this, the new copper/nickel stuff is good and works well however it is also way too easy to overtighten and crush the tube. It sounds like you are too tight and distorted the flare?

 

My 2 cents.. if it's leaking look to make sure you didn't cross thread. If that's not the case look at your flares. The way the nut screws into fitting, it seats the double flare. Also there is over-tightening. That can ruin the flare and make it leak. Lots of other good suggestions on here too. Good luck!

 

don't tell me this!!
just finished my custom brake lines, and also had heckuva time with the flare tool loaner from autozone...

trying to bench bleed MC now (but still getting air consistently from front reservoir) and am a bit worried about the line flares. was planning to just give it a go and hope for the best, though i realize it would be easier now when all is dry.

hmmm....

 

I had similar issues at a some joints. Mine is a Blue Point manual flare kit. The fix was a combination of re-tightening and complete redo of some of the runs. I remember being frustrated as the copper-nickel was easy to work with and my flares looked good. Got it right in the end. You will too John.

 

i didn,t see anybody mention that the die is also the gauge for how much tube you leave sticking out of the tool . i don,t know if i explain it right !

 

John do you still have thread showing on the tube nuts when tightened ?