Anyone know what needs to be done? Removing the compressor and replacing it with a pulley is easy....removing the condenser/cooler is easy.

What needs to be done to get fresh, un-heated air through the vents?

How do you remove/bypass the system? Anyone know?

I need my defrost to work. Truck is primarily a plow truck at this point.

Thanks in advance.

 

Then you need to leave your a/c system intact. The Defrost function uses the a/c. Note that a/c stands for air CONDITIONING. NOT air COOLING. The a/c system also de-humidifies the cabin air, which is how the defroster works to de-fog your windows. Of course, you turn the temp **** to heat, to get warm air. But without the a/c compressor also working, the defroster won't do much good.

Using the defroster, with temp **** to heat, is the same as a home dehumidifier ( notice how they blow warm air).

 

You could remove more stuff, but why????

It should blow hot air out of vents now.

I probably have compressors that freewheel just fine. Lemme know if you want one.

 

double post.

 

How do non-AC trucks have defrost then?

 

Already bought the delete pulley, Ford part was only $60 shipped.

And I want to delete it because it's a bunch of crap I don't want or need. Hardly ever used it anyway. But it would be nice if when I did turn the vents on that they blew normal air, not heated air, which is what it did with the AC system non-functioning.

 

Because they still have the label on the heater controls, and the ability to blow warm air towards the windshield, so they still call it "defrost". It may work sometimes, if the air is not too humid. There are other times though where you will have a very hard time getting and keeping the window clear; especially being in the northeast near the coast.

Its also nice on those cold "clammy" days. Heat's one thing, but without the a/c to dry things out, your making a sauna in your cab.
I'm telling you, if you yank out the a/c, you will miss it.

 

And I'm telling you I've already been without it for over a year, and don't miss it.

Now try keeping your unsolicited advice to yourself.

 

There will definitely be times defrost without AC is going to suck - but I've had at least a few vehicles with no AC and I barely ever crashed. Lol

Anyway, it's hard to get non-heated air through vents. The heater core is in the cab and it's HOT all the time. If it's summertime and you want closer to outside air temp - put a valve on heater core supply. I use 3/4" PEX barbed valves for this (that fits our 5/8" heater hose perfectly).

You can remove AC line set and accumulator/drier pretty easily. It's a little more of a PITA to pull evaporator, but that's all that is left. The non-AC trucks have a different box under hood with no evap. provisions.

 

I guess you could do a fancy version of the Ranger coolant valve for colder AC. Where people install a valve like some trucks have that closes heater core (return) line. You could use a vacuum solenoid like ESOF uses for hubs to close valve anytime you wanted.

But, I don't think those valves close all the way. My PEX valves are 100% shutoff and make NOTICEABLE colder AC.

 

This is the engine bay side of HVAC box. The evaporator is behind the panel with checker pattern on it.

 

 

Believe it or not up until the 1960's there was no A/C in automobiles and they drove them all over the country (and the world). To second what SkySkiJason has stated you'd need an inline valve of some sort to keep the heat out of your heater core. I've dealt with them in heavy trucks all of my career and they 1) do the job and 2) can be as elaborate or simple as you want them to be. i e you could just put a water valve in there and manually operate it or you could engineer yourself a remote control of probably several sorts. My old Pete had a cable that did the job from the driver's seat and you could affix a choke cable to your dash and do it that way, you could go vacuum as Jason said or, if you're really savvy, could probably hook yourself some sort of electrical activation system for it. And I don't think it would be necessary for you to tear out the evaporator coil from inside that box unless you needed something to do for a day, you could just leave it there disconnected.

 

I'm fairly certain the OP is describing use on a warmed engine running down the road, where he'll be fine. I know my truck puts out plenty of heat, oftentimes I run around with the window cracked open because I like that brisk cold air and the smell of winter. My other car is a TR6 and I've occasionally taken it out, with the top down, a day or so after a good snowfall when the roads are cleared, on short drives to work. Talk about funny looks...I have driven many non-a/c cars in the winter, and while the defogger does "work" in the winter, it's okay when both the windshield and air are either above or below freezing before the engine warms up. Cold air blowing across the windshield will de-fog the inside somewhat, but if the windshield is still below 32°F from an over night cold and the current air temp is above freezing and moist, it only makes the inside worse.

Defrost, regarding frost on the outside, is a misnomer as nothing will do that until the engine warms up or outside air is above freezing. And obviously has no relation as to whether the inside air is a/c or not. Now if you can get one of those electrically heated windshields, do they still offer those?

 

Ball valve on the heater hose helps but after a few hours pulling heavy everything gets warm. Have not had ac since my engine swap 2 years ago. really wanted to get it fixed for this year. missed the boat on that one.