2006 f150 5.4 misfire and occassional backfire
#1
2006 f150 5.4 misfire and occassional backfire
For some time I have known the coils are going bad and cause occassional misfires but recently something new is added. Backfires and balking down to not moving. codes were po307 po300po430. the reader tells me the likely cause would be the vct selenoids. These are around $33 a piece so I was wondering if anyone else agreed before I purchased these. Also they offer a set of 8 coils for $200 at autozone with lifetime guarantee. Are these any good? I have read on here to beware of cheep coils. miles is 119,000 have not changed spark plugs yet.
#2
#3
P0430 FORD - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2
Repair Importance Level: 2/3
Repair Difficulty Level: 2/3
Possible causes
Tech notes
As the code description implies the P0430 code means that the vehicle's control module has detected that the three-way catalytic converter is not working properly (is not as efficient as the factory is expecting). Replacing the oxygen (O2) sensors may sometimes fix the code, but in most cases the catalytic convert needs to be replaced to fix the problem. If the P0430 code is combined with other codes, try fixing the other codes first.
Repair Importance Level: 2/3
Repair Difficulty Level: 2/3
Possible causes
- Three way catalyst converter Bank 2
- Exhaust tube
- Intake air leaks
- Fuel injectors may be faulty
- Fuel injector leaks
- Spark plugs may be faulty
- Improper ignition timing
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
Tech notes
As the code description implies the P0430 code means that the vehicle's control module has detected that the three-way catalytic converter is not working properly (is not as efficient as the factory is expecting). Replacing the oxygen (O2) sensors may sometimes fix the code, but in most cases the catalytic convert needs to be replaced to fix the problem. If the P0430 code is combined with other codes, try fixing the other codes first.
#4
At your miles changing VCTS is also a good thing
While your cats may need replacing ,always get the spark circuit in tip top condition .
That means new boots, springs, dielectric grease and plugs torqued in 25-28 foot pounds/ don't go by feel . . Be very gentle with the new plugs clean out holes with carb cleaner and start by fingers using rubber insert sockets .
This engine can't be dealt with until this is done right .
Before you tackle the plugs get a lisle extractor ready as orig plugs are a challenge . Use new oem plugs and new good grade boots ,don't fail to replace them all .. Clean your coil connections, oems don't go bad very often . No need for this wholesale change out . Cop bolts corrode and seize ,put a little anti seize on them .
Carefully blow out all the holes with air, before you start read ford TSB on these plugs . It is a good Idea to soak plugs with carb cleaner then just move plug one eighth of a turn ,wait a couple of hours ,work them back and forth the eighth of a turn trying to get carb cleaner past the threads to dissolve carbon seizing tip . This can be very expensive if not done right . Start with the drivers side and save the difficult 3 and 4 until you have some experience .
Never go past 60k on plugs ,your new plugs are designed sp515 's that don't shear off .
Most people remove PCM and bracket to get to 3 and 4 . Get lots of different size extensions and flex head socket wrenches --cheap at harbor freight . Tie wrap stuff out of way ,put cushions on radiator to lay on , don't break off vcts putting pressure on them .
As you can see this is not an easy walk in the park , but most can do it --but don't do it half a--ed .Don't leave any holes open without rags in them as you will surely drop something in there .
That means new boots, springs, dielectric grease and plugs torqued in 25-28 foot pounds/ don't go by feel . . Be very gentle with the new plugs clean out holes with carb cleaner and start by fingers using rubber insert sockets .
This engine can't be dealt with until this is done right .
Before you tackle the plugs get a lisle extractor ready as orig plugs are a challenge . Use new oem plugs and new good grade boots ,don't fail to replace them all .. Clean your coil connections, oems don't go bad very often . No need for this wholesale change out . Cop bolts corrode and seize ,put a little anti seize on them .
Carefully blow out all the holes with air, before you start read ford TSB on these plugs . It is a good Idea to soak plugs with carb cleaner then just move plug one eighth of a turn ,wait a couple of hours ,work them back and forth the eighth of a turn trying to get carb cleaner past the threads to dissolve carbon seizing tip . This can be very expensive if not done right . Start with the drivers side and save the difficult 3 and 4 until you have some experience .
Never go past 60k on plugs ,your new plugs are designed sp515 's that don't shear off .
Most people remove PCM and bracket to get to 3 and 4 . Get lots of different size extensions and flex head socket wrenches --cheap at harbor freight . Tie wrap stuff out of way ,put cushions on radiator to lay on , don't break off vcts putting pressure on them .
As you can see this is not an easy walk in the park , but most can do it --but don't do it half a--ed .Don't leave any holes open without rags in them as you will surely drop something in there .
#5
I did the coil packs on my 2003 ccsb F150 more than once. Get the cheapest ones you can. I bought a set of Accel coils from Summit and they just died after a year. I wouldn't even consider Motorcraft coils (that's another story). Luckily, I was able to get my money back from my credit card company.
#6
I did the coil packs on my 2003 ccsb F150 more than once. Get the cheapest ones you can. I bought a set of Accel coils from Summit and they just died after a year. I wouldn't even consider Motorcraft coils (that's another story). Luckily, I was able to get my money back from my credit card company.
#7
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#8
update
finally did the dreaded spark plug/coil changeout. i read all the threads on not breaking plugs but still broke three. since the lisle tool is $130 i decided to look for a shop that already has one and also experience getting them out. The shop was reasonable 30 per plug. first 2 came out with tool no problem but third presented problem he said he had not seen. somehow tool would not reach? or bite into plug. however with a chisel or punch he was able to do it. iam not sure the advice of cracking 1/8,soaking, etc helped at all. s o for a charge of 30,30 and 50 plus plugs and coils the truck runs like new again. But as i was advised on this site it appears i have burned up the cat. all codes are gone except 0430
and engine light is on. my question is do i need to have this replaced. Does it effect the running of the engine? If so how many cats do I have? why does it only refer to bank 2? I am not familiar with cats at all so any info will be appreciated. also what should this cost?
and engine light is on. my question is do i need to have this replaced. Does it effect the running of the engine? If so how many cats do I have? why does it only refer to bank 2? I am not familiar with cats at all so any info will be appreciated. also what should this cost?
#9
Backfires are not good on these engines
Any misfires have to be dealt with very soon or they will blow out cats . Cats are very expensive ,always protect them . O2 sensors should be changed then also as they age . Shop around .
You have 4 cats 2 on each side . Bank 2 is drivers side . There are tests you can run and aftermarket is going to be cheaper . They can do a temperature test and a pressure test . Some guys rod them out . Be careful if you are in a picky state they won't accept aftermarket on inspection .
Vct change out is a good thing it is a preventive as they varnish up and there is an updated model . Use oem parts .
Cops --accel junk .oem coils rarely go bad just clean all contacts very well .
I am at 180k and the only non oem cop I have is duralast guaranteed from auto zone .
Cheap coil failed on me so I don't use them .
Lisle tool usually runs 60 bucks . The method used is a crap shoot ,hot engine , impact tool , solvents many kinds . Ford tsb gives you the method I described .
You got it done cheap so good for you . Others have had to have $2000 head jobs ,there was a class action lawsuit that ford lost . Done by lawyers for lawyers, shafted the owners .
You had better fix these cats or you will have more trouble, can you say blocked exhaust .
You have 4 cats 2 on each side . Bank 2 is drivers side . There are tests you can run and aftermarket is going to be cheaper . They can do a temperature test and a pressure test . Some guys rod them out . Be careful if you are in a picky state they won't accept aftermarket on inspection .
Vct change out is a good thing it is a preventive as they varnish up and there is an updated model . Use oem parts .
Cops --accel junk .oem coils rarely go bad just clean all contacts very well .
I am at 180k and the only non oem cop I have is duralast guaranteed from auto zone .
Cheap coil failed on me so I don't use them .
Lisle tool usually runs 60 bucks . The method used is a crap shoot ,hot engine , impact tool , solvents many kinds . Ford tsb gives you the method I described .
You got it done cheap so good for you . Others have had to have $2000 head jobs ,there was a class action lawsuit that ford lost . Done by lawyers for lawyers, shafted the owners .
You had better fix these cats or you will have more trouble, can you say blocked exhaust .
#10
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