It is going in my 78 cc 4x4. 429 4 speed with 4.10 rears
I just spent a fortune going through my brakes including ss braided lines. You don't hydro boost with proper brakes! Not looking for a debate on hydro boost so stay on task!😀
I'm finally happy with my power steering pump. It's quiet now and I'm not pissed anymore.
I am a bit concerned with the way the power steering reacts on the road. I rarely drive the thing because it has my camper parked
On it. I expect I will use it more once the overdrive is in. When I come out of a corner and let go of the steering wheel the truck continues into the ditch. I have to steer it back to straight. I don't remember if it has alway been this way, I don't remember my other dents doing this but maybe?
Could this be the signs of a old tired steering box? Can some caster shims help out? I have performed knuckle twists on 0* axles before so I am familiar with the benefits of a few degrees of positive caster. Just no longer up to the task. I'm older and cranky now and have less tolerance for my old trucks misbehaving.
I'm so close to loving to drive this truck again. Any words of wisdom?

 

Sounds fairly normal to me?

I've driven a few older power-steer vehicles and this tends to be in my mind with them, they sometimes do not center out by themselves like manual steering will.

- boingk

 

That's not encouraging. Any reason why?

 

Not normal...........Have you had a professional alignment done???? Id have a 4 wheel alignment.......rear end may be cocked.......Or it could be that the caster is out of whack due to sagging springs........it should return to center on its own

 

my 78 F150 2wd would do this when 1 of the kingpins was seizing up, I had to heat it up to take some grease and it quite doing that.

 

Could also be ball joints or bad u joints not flexing.

 

What front axle do you have? Is the truck lifted? I'd start with an alignment. Most shops won't adjust solid axle castor and camber but they will give you the numbers where your truck is it can be fixed. Camber can be adjusted with angled shims between the leafs and the axle. Castor can be adjusted with offset bushings for the ball joints on a Dana 44 and spindle shims (go between the spindle and the knuckle) on Dana 60'd and 44's. I doubt camber is your issue but it's nicked it have it set right. As stated above stuck ball joins, king pins and u-joins can cause it to not return. For that matter so could stuck things in the steering column.

 

Congrats on the OD.

For the steering, some positive caster should help. As several folks have said, make sure all the joints are in good shape and greased up. A good alignment guy will check it all out first before alignment and let you know if anything needs fixed before the alignment.

 

I'm excited to see your installation of the Gear Vendors. I also did the full brake upgrade and hydro boost and like yourself I'm so impressed I just want to drive more....... but the 472 and 4:11's take a toll on rpm's and gallons per mile

 

Back at it. I think the front has rancho 2" lift springs on front. It is not lifted too much at all. I did get someone to steer it while I crawled around under it. It has a worn tie rod, sloppy drag link and pitman arm has slop at steering g box. All visible but I'm sure it's not my problem. Friday I am installing new. Rod ends, drag link, steering box, and possibly trading out Pitman arm. Pitman arm not available at any parts houses. Once I separate the steering from the axle I should be able to see if the ball joints are binding. Then for alignment. Hoping this fixes it. I'm not up to doing ball joints. Especially if I need some kind of offset or shims as mentioned above. I think caster shims should be easy enough to install. We'll see how it goes

 

You might try Rock Auto for the pittman. They had a drag link in stock for my '78 F250 when nobody else could get it.

 

Thankfully a new steering box fixed my return to center issue! Yay!!
I guess it's impossible to locate a steering shaft to box coupling? Really. I just went with borgeson. Parts house chose the wrong right hand tie rod
So I had to reorder that. Close to dropping in the gear vendor!

 

The gear vendor is in! I just need to drill one hole
And pull one wire. The instructions could be a bit better, they are not intended for slack jawed do it your selfers like me. Im quite capable, and spend more time than needed on most projects trying not to screw things up. The overdrive is spendy and I want it right. You need to think about where unused parts install as it is not step by step. However, it is freakin insane to even for one moment consider adapting a 5 speed trans. You would have to be some kind of masochist to want to do anything other than a gear vendor. It's 1 day out of you life and a wait for the drive line guy. The cool thing is you can repurpose the OD for any vehicle and gv will send you the right adapter to move the OD to a different rig. I'm using it on a np435, but it is way cool on a c6. I may do swap just to realize it's full badassery. It does some cool stuff with the computer that it comes with.
I will report back with a short "how it's going" after I get the driveline installed in a week.

 

Did you add an additional cross member to support the GV unit?

 

I did not. No mention in any of their literature that one is required. I don't remember seeing any way to attach an additional Cross member. It isn't heavy Ompared to a cast iron np 205. Do you have any experience with gv??