ecu pin out, E4OD vs 5 speed
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From: North Dakota
ecu pin out, E4OD vs 5 speed
I am swapping a E4OD for a 5 speed, and I've been looking at my wiring diagrams in my repair manual, looks to me like I have to change out some of the wires at the computer itself. Can anyone verify this?
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From: North Dakota
After looking farther, the 94-95 manual trans pickup wasn't a MAF motor, but the E4ODs where, SO WHAT computer should I be looking for to run my MAF motor with a manual behind it?!
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The only real issue is that the Neutral/Drive Switch(NDS) on the manual shares the same pin as the Manual Lever Position Sensor(MLPS) on the auto. You can get around the problem this would cause by simply reattaching the MLPS sensor to the harness after the trans is removed and permanently set it in the drive or neutral position(actually anything but park). All the other sensor inputs for the E4OD may throw codes when they aren't connected but they won't affect engine operation and can be ignored.
If you were also going to swap in a 5-speed EEC you may have some wiring changes to make but you don't need to do that to use a manual trans.
If you were also going to swap in a 5-speed EEC you may have some wiring changes to make but you don't need to do that to use a manual trans.
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I believe there were some but I'm not 100% positive. If you are definitely changing the EEC to a manual version I'd suggest you get an mustang EEC so you're tuner compatable for future upgrades.
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If I got a mustang one, I'd most definatly have to change the pin out right?
As for using the E4OD computer, instead of leaving the MLPS zip tied to the frame, couldn't I just cut and splice the WHT/PINK wire with the Red/LT blue wire? That would be the same as leaving the switch in the "N" psition right?
As for using the E4OD computer, instead of leaving the MLPS zip tied to the frame, couldn't I just cut and splice the WHT/PINK wire with the Red/LT blue wire? That would be the same as leaving the switch in the "N" psition right?
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Yeah for the Mustang EEC you definitely have some wiring changes to make.
According to this info.. Shift Pointers 10-98 the MLPS input need to see about 1.3-3v to be in one of the drive position ranges so simply tying wires together won't work. You could substitute a couple resistors to create a voltage divider and wrap it all up in heatshrink.
According to this info.. Shift Pointers 10-98 the MLPS input need to see about 1.3-3v to be in one of the drive position ranges so simply tying wires together won't work. You could substitute a couple resistors to create a voltage divider and wrap it all up in heatshrink.
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From: North Dakota
So by looking at that, I would need a bout a 700 ohms resistor and put it inbetween the GRY/R wire and the LB/Y wire...
Than I could use the WHT/PINK wire with the Red/LT blue wire hooked together to make the starter relay work, or hook in a switch to the clutch peddle to start with it pressed in only....
than use the P/Oand the BK/PK for my reverse light switch on the manual trans...
Than I could use the WHT/PINK wire with the Red/LT blue wire hooked together to make the starter relay work, or hook in a switch to the clutch peddle to start with it pressed in only....
than use the P/Oand the BK/PK for my reverse light switch on the manual trans...
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