okay so i pulled the codes, i got code 62 twice, 33 and i think 23. after checking it out i guess i narrowed it down to the MLPS ? my symptoms are the same as those i read in an article, plus for the fact that first gear works gear when its put manually in first and it slips like crazy in drive while taking off. so i guess i should go find a good used one to try? i already unplugged it, cleaned up the plug and put electrical grease in the connection with the same results.

 

62 KOEO = 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit failed open.

62 CM = Converter clutch error (E4OD).

Code "62", is that a KOEO or CM trouble code? Its a problem and need to know which one it was.

23 KOEO / KOER Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected.

Could also cause shift issues.

33 EGR valve opening not detected.

Not a big issue depending on reason wasn't detected if it did. Check egr system for any vac supply leaks then go from there on that one, if no vac leaks and it doesn't open you can leave it for now. Dope it out once the trans shifts/works correctly again

 

okay, how do i know if its KOEO or CM? i am new to this test and have no idea how to determine between the two.

 

The codes read out KOEO first and then you a one (10 on the code reader) and then the CM reads out.

 

okay, so for KOEO i get code 11 twice ( system pass) then i get the one single blink that then tells me its switching to CM, i then get 33 twice (egr valve opening not detected, this thing has been unhooked for atleast 6 years after it gave my father trouble, so im not worried about that at all at the moment) and then i get 62 twice as well (converter clutch error (E4OD)). So what is this telling me, my torque converter is gone?

 

Code 62 indicates excessive converter clutch slip detected.
The KOEO 11 says that the clutch solenoid is OK.

Yes it may have bad friction elements in the TC.

 

Ok a KOEO test result would have be favorable if given a choice between the two...

The computer notes a difference in speed/engine rpm, converter clutch slipping.

What I would do is tap into that circuit, lock the converter myself manually, that would prove/disprove the CC mechanical ability to do so.

Accelerate to about forty and lock it, drive a ways up and down hill under load and verify it does "hold". That is if it locked to start with.

If it can and does it would clearly show a fault someplace in the electrical system in place to do so automatically.

If it did not I would first question the solenoid and or circuit (wire) leading to it (depending on where I taped into the circuit for the test) normally I would choose top of the driver side wheel tub for ease of access sake. Doubt its directly related to the wire/solenoid as it passes the KOEO testing. Not infallible but....

If you'd like to perform this test find the Purple-yellow wire in the harness leading to the passenger side of the trans into top of pan area.

Tap into it any place handy with a section of wire long enough to reach the drivers seat and tape it up, run the wire in the cab, now find a good ground handy you can reach. Take it for a ride, get to or above 35 and ground that wire. The CCC should lock and "hold" until you remove that ground.

You can also hook up a toggle switch to do the same thing (easier to do while driving, operate switch), if you prefer but simply grounding the bare end of the wire will work.

If nothing happens get a helper, one of you get under the trans pan with the key turned to "run" (engine not running). The other person ground that wire, does the person under the truck hear a "click" at all?

Not a perfect test, listening for a audible click, not always loud enough to hear. But if you do hear it click it shows a proper reaction to grounding that lead wire. If not warrants further investigation.

You can also test the solenoid a couple of ways,

Resistance of solenoid = 4.0-6.5 ohms / High resistance? = replace solenoid.

Test for continuity to ground / replace solenoid if tests shorted to ground.

 

so where would this wire be up by the drivers side inner fender? or can it only be found on that side of the transmission. i am very interested in this test as i guess it would tell me if there was any slip in my transmission, then i would be a little more at ease knowing the transmission is good. i know the torque converter is definitely locking now because i can cancel overdrive and when i hit about 40 mph in third the rpms drop, and i can bring them back up by touching the brake. i'm more interested in locking it up in second gear and seeing if it takes away all of my slip i am experiencing.