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Anyone know how to remove the crankshaft from under the truck? I got the oil pump and pan off and inspected the crankshaft to find its scared and the bearings read .030 so we assume its been turned already.
You will need to either drop the trans, or take the engine out.
If it has an auto trans, you *may* be able to get the torque converter to slide back far enough to allow the flexplate to come down with the crank, if the engine isn't a 1 piece rear main seal type..... Won't be easy.
Standard trans, no dice without removing either the engine or trans.
Either way, it will not be real easy to deal with trying to swap out the crank with the block still in the frame. The front crossmember is pretty immoveable.
Already .030 undersized journals, and scarring, sounds like a recipe for low oil pressure and knocking. It might last for a while, or it might throw a cast iron fit in short order.
I wouldn't try it myself, unless I was really in a bind.
Personally, I wouldn't; the existing parts have all "worn in" together and each journal (and
the bearings on them) have slight variations from the others. I wouldn't replace the bearings
without also machining the crank, block & prolly also the rods.
You are going to have to pull the whole front of the engine off too. You have to take the timing chain loose to get the crank out. Pull the engine, it would be much easier.
Wish I could, but I'm already down to the crank and this is looking like a long hard job at this point and I don't want to pay a mechanic to pull my motor.
long ago, I r&r the rods and mains in an 89 4x4 with a 302/four speed while still in the truck. it was a pain in the ... IMHO do yourself a favor and pull the motor.
Nah, I'm really not sure what to think of my crank. How can you tell if its bad or not? Some people are telling that unless its deformed its fine and other say if it doesn't feel like glass then its junked.
The best way I know of involves specialty measurement tools, micrometers and such... is it
perfectly round like it's supposed to be or is it ovaled, for example. Most of these things you
can't really discern by merely looking at it unless it's been BADLY abused. If it doesn't "feel
like glass" it can sometimes be polished but, again, is it perfectly round?
Some things are best left to professional engine rebuilders with proper tools, this IMHO is
one of them.
Nah, it's not a dumb question, it's just that nobody here on the 'net is gonna be able to help
you much by merely looking at pictures. It's kinda like trying to diagnose engine knocks by
reading text-based descriptions - very hard.
Again, IMHO these kinds of determinations are the kind of thing that are best done by the
professionals with proper experience & tools for doing this. Failing that, the best you're
gonna get are people's opinions based on what they can determine in the pics, which may
or may not accurately represent reality.
Can I ask why you're taking your engine apart from the bottom while it's still in the truck
and asking questions like this? What are your goals here?
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