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Dome Light Override Switch Questions

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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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Dome Light Override Switch Questions

I've read all the posts concerning adding a dome light override switch to my '04 Ex but there was one statement made in Monsta's directions that puzzled me. Since I'm not an electrical or mechanical person I thought it best to ask here since I didn't see any clear info in the other threads and those of you who've already put in an override switch can advise me.

In Monsta's directions he states "These switches need a ground, and they have Power and Load connections, so I used colored wires to be sure to get the current correct, bringing Power from the connector, and taking Load back to the lighting circuits." In my mind I envisioned cutting the black/light blue stripe wire and using a simple SPST toggle switch, attach one BK/LB wire to one switch connection and the other BK/LB wire to the other switch connection. From what I've read I need to use a 12VDC automotive switch not the 125VAC toggle switch I found lying around. My questions are:

1. Does amperage matter?
2. Do all 12VDC automotive switches have three connections on the back?
3. Is it necessary to use a three connection automotive switch or can I use a two connection switch?
4. The ground connection I understand but does it matter which other connection is connected to which end of the BK/LB wire?
5. What connector (see above quote)?

Thanks for assist. Like I said, I'm not electrical or mechanical but I can follow directions, as long as they're in English.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DznyRulz

In Monsta's directions he states "These switches need a ground, and they have Power and Load connections, so I used colored wires to be sure to get the current correct, bringing Power from the connector, and taking Load back to the lighting circuits." In my mind I envisioned cutting the black/light blue stripe wire and using a simple SPST toggle switch, attach one BK/LB wire to one switch connection and the other BK/LB wire to the other switch connection. From what I've read I need to use a 12VDC automotive switch not the 125VAC toggle switch I found lying around. My questions are:

Originally Posted by DznyRulz
1. Does amperage matter?
Absolutely.. The switch must be rated for at least the amperage passing through it, or the ampacity of the supply circuit(supply fuse size ).. If you have a switch rated for too low a current value, it can burn up.. If you don't know how to measure or calculate the ampacity of the circuit, get a switch with a rating equal to the fuse rating that's feeding the circuit.

Originally Posted by DznyRulz
2. Do all 12VDC automotive switches have three connections on the back?

No.. You can get automotive SPST switches.. A 3 wire switch will be either a SPDT switch, or it will have a grounding point for an indicator light/LED which will illuminate when the switch is closed..

Originally Posted by DznyRulz
3. Is it necessary to use a three connection automotive switch or can I use a two connection switch?

A 2 wire switch is fine.. All you need to achieve is opening the circuit to shut off the lights, and closure to return to normal function..

Originally Posted by DznyRulz
4. The ground connection I understand but does it matter which other connection is connected to which end of the BK/LB wire?

If it's important, it will be marked on the switch. With a 3 wire lighted switch you should have a line terminal, a load terminal, and ground. Line is the voltage coming into the switch.. Load is the power going out to your accy when the switch is closed.... If you get the line and load reversed on this type of switch, the indicator will be lit at all times..

Originally Posted by DznyRulz
5. What connector (see above quote)?

Without knowing where the quote came from, i'll have to assume he's talking about a factory connector in a wiring harness somewhere(kick panel?).. You really only need to cut the existing wire in question and take new leads to your switch for control. What you posted immediately after the quote will work fine.. Before you cut any wires, go through your fuse box to identify and remove the fuse that feeds the lights in question.. Then you can cut the wire without fear of shorting the circuit out( if you have the right wire identified).. Once that wire is cut and safed off(even with tape), you can test to see that the lights are not working by re-installing the fuse..Pull the fuse out again.. Now take two pieces of 16ga, insulated, automotive grade wire that are long enough to reach from the cut wires to the switch, and dress them through the dash.. Use the appropriate connectors to splice your new wires to the existing wires.. Attach the other ends of the new wires to the line and load switch terminals with the appropriate connectors.. Re-install your fuse and check it out..

 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the replies. You certainly did answer my questions. Now I feel better about taking on this mod.

Chris
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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No problem.. Hope you post back your results..
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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I must be "out of the loop". What purpose does the override switch provide?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveandJennyP
I must be "out of the loop". What purpose does the override switch provide?
Allows you to kill the interior lights with the doors or back hatch open
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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another job i keep meaning to do , the amount of times i have drained my battery just sitting listening to the radio with the doors open from time to time.
there must be 12-15 lights on at a time when the doors ajar.

can anyone push me in the direction of Monsta's directions please.

another thought , anyone changed all the Interior/ Runnning Board lights to LED's , would that make a difference ?


thanks in advance
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Am I missing something here? On my EX if you leave the doors open, the interior lights turn off automatically after a period of time. (And I don't mean after the battery is dead; LOL)
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 02:39 AM
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yes they do , i think its 5 mins , but after a constant stream of people opening doors , closing doors , it may as well be constantanly on.

if i am there to monitor things the doors will stay open and the lights off , but with the other 9 members of my family , coming and going to the EX its not possible lol

so a switch would eliminate the lights so in theory no more dead battery from that.
this just seems a simple fix almost makes me wonder why ford did not do this themselves.
they give you the option to turn them all on at the throw of a button , why not the other way around.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:24 AM
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I understand completely and as I camp a lot all year I will probably install a switch myself after I finish 50 other things I want to do to it! As far as the lights going off on their own, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy....................too late!
 

Last edited by FallstonYJ; Feb 26, 2010 at 05:26 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 03:52 AM
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is there lights in the doors interior? and under the dash? cause if there is mines not working, the dealer is ordering me somthing for interior lights.. some of my ceiling ones work and the runnign board ones work.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Honestly I never really paid attention to it but I believe the only lights are the overhead lights, front row, middle row, third row and cargo area.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DznyRulz
Honestly I never really paid attention to it but I believe the only lights are the overhead lights, front row, middle row, third row and cargo area.

ya they are in the doors under the red/whire covers. bulb #194.. no underdash i seen, im gonna add some tho, kinda dark if you drop anything down there.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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04's don't have the door marker lights.
 
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