hey whats up out there, well i did something i said id never do recently, i bought a fuel injected truck yup, 225 bucks was too good to be true, and it was.
its a 1989 ford bronco 5.0 v8, 5 speed
recently ive been haveing probelems with it at idle, it pulls codes 16, 63, and oddly a code 36?? that ones not listed either that or the blinking of the check engine light made my eyes cross. i did the KOEO test only mind you gonna go out and do the engine running test tommorow.
the problem im haveing is that when i first start it, the idle bouces wildly up and down from 500, to 1000 rpm, no prior to getting the code 63 it wasnt pulling any codes at all! which was because if a corroded connector (thank you new england) after i fixed that i got the code 63 and low and behold it was the tp sensor that decided it didnt like me anymore, so thats outta the way, but now we come to code 16 idm signal not recieved, once i realized that the book wasnt gonna tell me anything i called the local shop they said my ignition module was shot, based on the info i gave em. now i dunno whats going on here but everyone says "look for a big green eraser looking thing with a funny symbol on the side, cant find it period, can anyone help me here? where is it, is it important enough to worry about, is it my module? cause the module is probably gonna require me to remove the distributor, which i dont wanna do, id probably try to make a speacial tool to get in there and get at the bolt closest to the intake manifold, yeah im crafty that way

 

Pin 5 of the TFI module on the distributor goes to pin 4 on the EEC through a 22k ohm resistor, check that resistor and the wire for continuity and if good replace the TFI module, be sure to get another grey one and not a black one.. it is wired differently.

 

If you need grey ICM I have two that just have a few hours on them until I found a black one.

 

ok illl check that out, im kinda an idiot when it comes to wiring, im serious when i say this is the only fuel injected truck ive ever owned, so pin 4 on the eec wheres that at i know it sounds idiotic but the last truck i owned was an 85 f-150 with the bulletproof 300 in it carbed, man i miss that thing
so anyway, what kinda problems would the IDM cause? like i said i figured out about the tp sensor, no sweat, but what could the idm problem cause? only thing i noticed when the truck was running right about 2 months ago was that is hesitated for the first few minutes of warm up but only when you steped on the gas, there would be a quick pause but then then the throttle would respond just fine after it reached operating temp, that wouldnt happen anymore oh and does anyone have any tips on bleeding a clutch, can i use a vacuum bleeder? i heard that clutch bleeding was tricky the guy that owned it befored forced fluid in through the bleeder useing a syringe...dont ask my spine crawled when i heard him say that, by the way thanks for the help, the people at that shop are useless, which is why i do my repairs myself

 

I think the hesitation when the truck is cold is a normal issue (maybe not enough fuel in the system yet?), i only get it the first time i step on the pedal.

 

UPDATE: well i just got in from doing the engine running test here are the codes pulled from that test:
21: ECT out of self test range

23:TP sensor out of self test range (i havent put the new one in yet)

44:Thermactor air system inoperative<en dash> right side, now if im not mistaken thats the A.I.R. system, if it is well it doesnt matter cause im eliminateing that system all together summit makes a A.I.R. delete pully and im getting one.

33:EGR valve opening not detected, now could that be because the solenoid is gone or is the the whole egr valve kaputs?

73:insufficient TP change during dynamic test.

any help on what i should look at replaceing here would be much appreciated, i kinda get that i might have to replace the egr valve, and i know the TP sensor is gone but, what about codes 21 and 44? thanks in advance for the help

 

I would start with 21: ECT out of self test range which would explain running rough when cold. Check the connector and clean/dielectrice grease it. Run codes again. If still there remove it (mine is above the thermostat) get a meter and test it in your oven. Test the resistance at several temperatures and compare it to the chart at Ford Fuel Injection Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) then replace if bad. Transistors get weak with age.

You may want to change you plans to remove your Thermactor air system. I'm sure others will be along shortly with more assistance.

 

Was the truck hot when you did the test? If not that would explain the #21, otherwise you need to change the coolant sensor or check its wiring.

#33 & #44 are vac operated so if you have a vacuum leak they won't be able to work correctly. If this is a year that had a metal vac reservoir - coffee can thing on top of the passenger-side wheel well - the check it first then the hoses and caps.