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I am interested in finding out if anyone knows of any consequences of using the ultra-low sulfur fuel in the older engines. I hear things but can not verify anything. It seems, although I can't prove it, that the engine ran somehow smoother with the old red fuel.
it had a lot more lubricity and was therefore better for overall operation. Adding something with lubricity additives and cetane boosters like diesel kleen will aid but yeah, sucks that there is so much stink over it. haha diesel fumes do stink i guess but it is a good stink. Reminds me of the other thread about addictive diesel.
I don't think there are real consequences unless you count power and fuel mileage.
I try to run howes pretty regular and honestly belive it pays for itself in the mileage.
I recall something about the lack of lubricity affecting the seals? of the engines. However the older engines don't have the tolerances and BS of the newer one's. We could probably run them on chicken or donut oil. I have seen sulfur additive available but am leary of many additive's and addon's, etc. that make unsubstantiated promises.
I am unfamiliar with.............
I try to run howes pretty regular and honestly belive it pays
Back when ULSD first hit the market, there were many problems with lubricity.
And older IP's were dying like flies.
At that time, running something to improve the lubricity was the only option.
But it did not take to long before they got the addative package corrected and reports of IP's dying dropped off.
The MPG's never came back, the power never came back, but at least it was not killing engines.
Fuel in the 80's when these engines were designed was 5000 PPM+ sulphur, far cry from the less than 15 PPM of ULSD.
Last winter with the frigid temps out in the mid west the hot topic was gelling fuel.
I did some online research and found ULSD has another interesting property at cold temps called WDO (wax drop out).
WDO can and will plug fuel lines and filters with less warning than the older fuels gave with CP (cloud point) and CFPP (cold filter plug point).
Extreme cold and sudden temp swing to the lower temps seems to trigger WDO faster than the CP and CFPP were reached.
So looks like an extra dose of anti gell when temps dip suddenly is cheap insurance.
As for running ULSD, I still run Diesel Kleen every couple tank fulls, but not every tank like I was right after the change.
A few gallons of bio-diesel in each tank will work too. I'm not a fan of grease cars or burning used motor oil but if you can find a good quality bio-diesel producer it works great. I'm getting a delivery to my house tomorrow of 100 gal. @ $2.20 per gal. Here in Wichita, KS diesel at the pump is $2.69 per gal.
Back when ULSD first hit the market, there were many problems with lubricity.
And older IP's were dying like flies.
At that time, running something to improve the lubricity was the only option.
But it did not take to long before they got the addative package corrected and reports of IP's dying dropped off.
The MPG's never came back, the power never came back, but at least it was not killing engines.
Fuel in the 80's when these engines were designed was 5000 PPM+ sulphur, far cry from the less than 15 PPM of ULSD.
Last winter with the frigid temps out in the mid west the hot topic was gelling fuel.
I did some online research and found ULSD has another interesting property at cold temps called WDO (wax drop out).
WDO can and will plug fuel lines and filters with less warning than the older fuels gave with CP (cloud point) and CFPP (cold filter plug point).
Extreme cold and sudden temp swing to the lower temps seems to trigger WDO faster than the CP and CFPP were reached.
So looks like an extra dose of anti gell when temps dip suddenly is cheap insurance.
As for running ULSD, I still run Diesel Kleen every couple tank fulls, but not every tank like I was right after the change.
Dave do you run the recommended amounts or more or less? Just curious, thanks also would running a b5 biodiesel blend help any more over regular diesel? The columbia fuels here on island(commercial cardlock) runs the B5 blend and are considering the B20 at the pump. they will deliver any grade biodiesel to a residence including B100. in other words, Bio better?
During cold weather, I also dose on the heavy side.
10 bucks worth of fuel addative or 100 bucks in a shop getting thawed out when it gells plus probably not plowing so I am losing income as well.
When I depend on my truck most in the winter is when conditions outside are at their worst.
And when those conditions hit, I am out there somewhere for most of a day or more.
No biodiesel within 75 miles of here, so no experience.
Down here south of the border there are no diesel additives. I go to the local 13 peso store (99 cent store) and buy the 40 wt motor oil and tranny fluid. Every couple of fill-ups, I put a quart of tranny fluid in one tank and a quart of motor oil in the other. That is how I clean the injectors and lube the ip pump. I also think they are just pumping the old low sulphur diesel and not ULSD.
Would this method achieve the same results as using additives like Diesel Kleen and Howes?
What's the common additive for these IDI's? I've been running Diesel Kleen from a white bottle in my 7.3L PSD fuel tank. The first time I used it, I noticed a difference. I've run two stroke oil, but didn't notice any difference.
Do any of you run your filtered waste oil through?
I'm sure I'll be picking up the IDI on a mostly empty tank. Just wondering if I should take a white bottle of DK out there. Thanks.
Diesel fuel supplement in the winter(white bottle) and diesel kleen in the summer(silver bottle) and a diesel 911 red bottle for those emergencies if you are in severe weather.