Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Pedal to the metal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-03-2008, 03:38 AM
bad_habit59's Avatar
bad_habit59
bad_habit59 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Pedal to the metal

Not in the good way... My clutch pedal made a cracking sound while I drove home tonight and the pedal went straight to the floor(I was in the middle of changing gears). Now the pedal has some resistance when pushed but pops to the floor and I have to pull it out again. The pedal feels like it is not connected to the clutch master cylinder because nothing happens when it goes to the floor.

I turned off my truck and pulled er over, now she won't start because the truck wont recognize when the clutch is depressed

Sound familiar to anybody? I am sure its the linkage, I will be pulling it apart in the morning before work but if anyone can give me the fast track it would be great
 
  #2  
Old 05-03-2008, 05:05 AM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Well,

If you're sure it's the linkage you might look @ this thread;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-it-s-own.html

If it's the firewall torn;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...in-issues.html

You don't say what year your truck is, but I think the "cracking" sound you heard is the ratcheting clip on the clutch safety switch.
If yours is like mine look up under the dash and you'll see a whiteish plastic rod connected to the clutch pedal.
On this there is a 'stop' (for lack of a better word) this closes the switch contacts when you depress the clutch.
Just slide this back into a position where it will engage the switch that the rod passes through.
The "cracking" is the self adjusting of this 'stop' on the rod.

Hope this helps...
 
  #3  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:13 PM
bad_habit59's Avatar
bad_habit59
bad_habit59 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yeah, as soon as it was light out I could see the problem right away. It is the same problem you had with the stupid plastic four pronged piece.

Is the cylinder rod that attaches to the "pedal" supposed to move around? it seems kinda loose, but I guess once the rod is connected onto the "lever" it doesn't really matter because that will hold it in place?...
 
  #4  
Old 05-03-2008, 01:31 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
It has a 'ball joint' where it clips into the piston of the master cylinder, so it should "move around" but it shouldn't move in and out much.

If there's not a groove worn in the actuating arm you can get the clip in the "HELP" section of most autoparts stores. Dorman/Motormite P/N 14041
It's an assortment, you only need 1 of the 5, but it's readily available.
You put it in the hole first and then pop it on the lever, otherwise you'll destroy it trying to get the "eye" over the fingers.
 
  #5  
Old 05-03-2008, 01:35 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Were you able to reset your clutch safety switch?
 
  #6  
Old 05-03-2008, 01:39 PM
bad_habit59's Avatar
bad_habit59
bad_habit59 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks ArdWrknTrk,

Funny you should mention

"You put it in the hole first and then pop it on the lever, otherwise you'll destroy it trying to get the "eye" over the fingers"

Because I was putting it on in the dealership parking lot and did exactly what you said not to do. I realized my mistake and got it to work. Almost broke it and had to buy another one.

Ford is a rip-off. It was $20 for the plastic retainer!!!

Thanks for the help, your links with the diagrams helped me out
 
  #7  
Old 05-03-2008, 01:41 PM
bad_habit59's Avatar
bad_habit59
bad_habit59 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Were you able to reset your clutch safety switch?


Didn't have to reset it, as soon as I put the cylinder rod back on the "lever" it worked fine, just had to drive smooth to the dealership so it wouldn't fall off again on the road
 
  #8  
Old 05-03-2008, 02:02 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Originally Posted by bad_habit59

Ford is a rip-off. It was $20 for the plastic retainer!!!
Dang!
Like $3.49 for the HELP assortment.................
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jhweigel
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
04-02-2015 06:40 AM
Gettysburg150
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
24
01-04-2014 09:05 PM
cr506
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
18
04-08-2010 08:16 PM
oem78
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
02-14-2010 10:51 PM
Polkat
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
10
11-02-2002 08:50 PM



Quick Reply: Pedal to the metal



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:56 AM.