When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, My name is Ken. I have a 1941 Fire Engine. I got it a couple of years ago. It was Borrego Springs first Fire Engine, which is who I got it from. Prior to that, it was part of the Department of Defense during WW II. It sat for 10 years under cover in the desert. I'm starting back into getting it running.
That is exteremely cool! I'm sure it has incredibly low miles and don't even get me started on that DRY desert air for preserving it. Have you got it running yet? I have owned at least 30 old Ford trucks, mostly the big ones from '28-'59, but mostly from the '40s. I have only had one 40-41 big truck and I think that is the best looking of all the good looking pre war ford truck. That's a great score.
That is exteremely cool! I'm sure it has incredibly low miles and don't even get me started on that DRY desert air for preserving it. Have you got it running yet? I have owned at least 30 old Ford trucks, mostly the big ones from '28-'59, but mostly from the '40s. I have only had one 40-41 big truck and I think that is the best looking of all the good looking pre war ford truck. That's a great score.
Thanks! The odometer says under 4k. The fire department maintained it on the outside, under the hood is another story. After retiring it, they used it in the local parade every year. The desert air is brutal on anything not metal or glass. The wiring under the dash is mostly original. It's dried out, brittle and broken and needs to be replaced. A lot of the rubber is in the same condition. I started working on it when I got it a couple of years ago, but had to step back from it for a bit. It does turn over. I replaced the water pumps, spark plugs and trying to figure out what's next. This is what it looks like under the hood.
Welcome. As the former owner of 3 1940 1 1/2 ton trucks I agree with GB that the '40/41's are the best looking of the early Ford big trucks.. Some suggestions for parts and info if you aren't already aware of them:
Thanks for the links. When I got the truck, the Fire Department told me that it needed the brakes worked on. At some point, I want to replace the brake system entirely. I've looked at the parts suppliers and I'm not sure if the parts are available. Or, I'm a newbie with this and maybe I don't know what I'm looking at. Not sure if it's the right part or not.
Brakes could be a little of a challenge. Drums and shoes are probably not something that is going to be on the shelf anywhere. Good news is that your existing shoes can be relined by any localish heavy duty clutch and brake shop. Being a fire truck, the drums should have low miles and a bit of life left in them. Be sure to work with your brake shop and ensure the material selected is kind to the drums, even at the expense of relining the shoes more frequently.
Definitely recommend getting the shop manual and green bible for starters.
With 4000 miles your drums should be as new and unless the dry climate harms the asbestos linings (heat doesn't) they should be too. The steel lines shuld be fine but I would inspect them carefully, Replace all rubber hoses and the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Perhaps a better option would be a light honing of all these parts and rebuild kits which include the cups and boot and any seals. Buying new parts today often leads to fitment issues. In my old age I have finally learned to do the brakes FIRST before I get a new hulk running as I tend to get over anxious to go for that first drive. (without brakes). Hasn't always worked out for me on my mountainside location.... Youtube should have some wheel cylinder honing/rebuilding episodes Engine looks ready to fire, sorta. You could invite your friends over for a bbq on that porch of a back bumper. If the fire should get out of hand, you won't have to call for help. Not sure why your battery says 16 volt??? Standard 6v and it should be wired for positive ground, which is original, but all bets are off at this point.
Last edited by GB SISSON; Mar 13, 2026 at 11:46 PM.
With 4000 miles your drums should be as new and unless the dry climate harms the asbestos linings (heat doesn't) they should be too. The steel lines shuld be fine but I would inspect them carefully, Replace all rubber hoses and the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Perh, Iaps a better option would be a light honing of all these parts and rebuild kits which include the cups and boot and any seals. Buying new parts today often leads to fitment issues. In my old age I have finally learned to do the brakes FIRST before I get a new hulk running as I tend to get over anxious to go for that first drive. (without brakes). Hasn't always worked out for me on my mountainside location.... Youtube should have some wheel cylinder honing/rebuilding episodes Engine looks ready to fire, sorta. You could invite your friends over for a bbq on that porch of a back bumper. If the fire should get out of hand, you won't have to call for help. Not sure why your battery says 16 volt??? Standard 6v and it should be wired for positive ground, which is original, but all bets are off at this point.
Thanks for your advice. Getting back into this and not sure where to start, I do know that it over heated during the last parade it was in 10 years ago, so the cooling is where I started. I don't want to reinstall the radiator if I need to get to the stuff behind it. They also said that there was an issue with the brakes. Sitting as long as it has, of course there is.
As for the brakes, It's a 1 1/2 ton truck. Is there a specific master cylinder or brake parts for this size of truck, or is what's available universal? For example
That is a 6 volt battery. Not sure why it's marked like that. The engine did turn over.
Funny that you mention a BBQ. My original plan is to some how have a hitch added, and using the truck to pull a smoker behind it to sell food. using the truck as an attraction that nobody else has.
I mentioned earlier to get the green bible - it will help you get parts sorted out. You can get reprints, digital copies, or an original print: https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+green+bible
Your complete mater cylinder is 91T-2140. This crosses with NAPA NMC M4572, RAYBESTOS MC4572. If you wanted to rebuild your existing, NAPA has the kit: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UP_1
Your rear wheel cylinders are 91T-2261 which cross with ACDelco 18E741, Aimco W906012, Centric 134.79031, Coni-Seal WC257480, General Motors 5473139, Raybestos WC4511 and Wagner F4511, WC4511
Your front wheel cylinders are 92Y-2261 which cross with Aimco W906013, Autospecialty W-91003, Bendix 33795, Centric Parts 134.81003, Chrysler 2505027, Coni-Seal WC13795, Dorman W4571, General Motors 5473125, Raybestos WC4571, and Wagner F1430, F4571, WC1430, WC4571
As for cooling (aside from all the normal checks), you can consider upgrading to a 6 blade fan:
Youtube should have some wheel cylinder honing/rebuilding episodes Engine looks ready to fire, sorta. You could invite your friends over for a bbq on that porch of a back bumper. If the fire should get out of hand, you won't have to call for help. Not sure why your battery says 16 volt??? Standard 6v and it should be wired for positive ground, which is original, but all bets are off at this point.