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Will do. I failed to snap pics last night but the beams are in with all new bushings of course. Tonight I'm hoping to assemble spindles etc.
One thing I see different is the tie rod ends in the 65 pointed up. The 77 seem to point down. I was hoping to not mess with linkage but I can't get out of that now I guess. I'm trying to decide if I want to pull the column to mod to connect to the ps box and just go all in on this now vs later. Then do I replace the missing(Bluetooth) drivers side cab mount assembly also. I have the parts but kind of didn't want to get deep in on this at this moment. Hmmmm
Oh how nice fresh greased new king pins rotate. One side assembled . Sadly for now the junk old rotors are going on to make it roll again.
I'll get the other side together tonight then start on steering box/ linkage,column shortening and cab support/ floor repair next. Let's make the ps work!!
Well, it's not how much I planned before stopping for now but it rolls again
I really want next to pull the front clip and engine. Then doing cab mount,floor etc will be less hassle and I can make the front half of the frame look better to boot.
I may order the d60 install stuff to put the 77 rear stuff in also...
Has anyone got any experience adding power steering on one of there? I have the 77 steering box and a ps pump assy. I know I will have to shorten the column. Any tips or tricks?
I'm planning to get the engine out soon so metal work on cab mount/floor can be completed. I'd like to drive this soon.
Plenty of canned information on it. Hardly worthwhile to cover the same information when it's readily available but do ask follow-up questions if you have any after reading this. Shortening a steering column is OK but cutting it in the middle and welding halves together should be avoided since welds can and do break if there is not excellent penetration and even then, if it were to break any way you would suddenly be without steering at all. Not pleasant.
Plenty of canned information on it. Hardly worthwhile to cover the same information when it's readily available but do ask follow-up questions if you have any after reading this. Shortening a steering column is OK but cutting it in the middle and welding halves together should be avoided since welds can and do break if there is not excellent penetration and even then, if it were to break any way you would suddenly be without steering at all. Not pleasant.
Thanks, I had not found that somehow.
I had envisioned just removing the lower flange,shortening the shaft and column cover and reattaching the flange. I think it's a worthwhile endeavor to do this as my wife and 16 year old daughter both want to drive the old dude. Thanks!
I had envisioned just removing the lower flange,shortening the shaft and column cover and reattaching the flange. Thanks!
In essence, that's what you will do, but "removing...flange" is easier said than done, it is welded on. If you have a lathe, or access to one, you can drill that weld out from the end working up in size to 3/4" IIRC. You might be able to do the same with a hand drill, or setup in a drill press. Once loose, you can shorten as needed and simply weld it back on same as factory. Welding this on is much easier than trying to weld shaft back together. Not to mention a lot more forgiving weld for a "non-professional welder". This is how I did it. Remember, measure twice(at least), cut / weld once. I left mine about 3/32" long and i wish I could go back and fix it.
Power steering and power brakes is such a beneficial and easy upgrade on these trucks, it's worth doing in my opinion.
Sounds like a good approach. I have 3 sitting here - the picture is of an NOS one and I don't see any weld on the flange on any of these. It is splined. Was yours @PROSTOCK and if so, how did you deal with that?
In essence, that's what you will do, but "removing...flange" is easier said than done, it is welded on. If you have a lathe, or access to one, you can drill that weld out from the end working up in size to 3/4" IIRC. You might be able to do the same with a hand drill, or setup in a drill press. Once loose, you can shorten as needed and simply weld it back on same as factory. Welding this on is much easier than trying to weld shaft back together. Not to mention a lot more forgiving weld for a "non-professional welder". This is how I did it. Remember, measure twice(at least), cut / weld once. I left mine about 3/32" long and i wish I could go back and fix it.
Power steering and power brakes is such a beneficial and easy upgrade on these trucks, it's worth doing in my opinion.
Outstanding I have a lathe and at work a full machine shop.
My wife and daughter want to drive this so ps and PB are some safety items I think are needed. Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll get the engine out of this.
Sounds like a good approach. I have 3 sitting here - the picture is of an NOS one and I don't see any weld on the flange on any of these. It is splined. Was yours @PROSTOCK and if so, how did you deal with that?
Well it was 30 years ago and those brain cells are long gone, lol. However, had it been splined, I could have dealt with that by re-splining and pressing back together. I had all the available equipment to do so, no sweat Nonetheless, welding has worked well for the last...well, 30 years. The difficulty is getting the last .001" out of the length of the column while leaving enough for the lower bearing and shift tube (automatic). I don't suppose there is a different p/n for the 3 on tree vs. 4spd vs. COM steering shaft? Your pic shows very well how one could weld that flange back on after shortening the shaft. Too many years and beers ago.
Well, one part at a time I suppose. Disassemble,clean,blast,paint,new pistons and seal. Like new for less than half of raman.
I'll be driving this thing someday...
well, I have gathered more parts. Sniper efi is the newest addition . Now I have 2 holley systems and an aces system to all 3 be on fe engines ..this project is quickly coming up in the project cue...