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Well, it looks like I'll need to jump in and get started on rebuilding my Brake System. I rebuilt the original Brake System back in 1990. Drove it off and on until 2013. This system also went through a flood in 1997. I recently installed an emergency foot brake into the truck, and while I was at it bled the brakes. The brake were good and tight. About a week later while messing with the emergency brakes I notice that the brake was soft and went to the floor. Master brake cylinder was leaking. Decided to jump in and redo the entire brake system. I had collected some brake parts for this through the years.
1. New dual Master Brake cyl. from 1967 to 1972 Ford. Will need to modify push rod. Changed about an inch in length. Not in the kit was the Rubber Dust Boot.
2. Brake Pressure Differential Valve, What you are looking for C9TZ-2B257-D. Engineering part C8TA-2B257-M, The one in the photo is actual C8TA-2B257-N. Which is for a 4X4 F100. Still the same, there's a plug where the fifth line goes.
3. Adapter to mount New cylinder to where the Old cylinder was.
4. Need fittings and brake lines
Had to find the Brake Pressure Differential Valve from a 1970 F100 4X4. The piston did not want to move. Placed it in a part cleaner can full of Acetone to soak for the day to erode to rubber Orings. Then with a brass punch lightly tapped it and it moved. I had to tap the Valve body against a block of wood and the piston flew out. nearly lost it. Placed on order the rebuild kit, Bleed tool, and a new light switch.
This is what the install should look like.
Remember on the New dual master cyl if the reservoir is not the same size the bigger reservoir goes to the front brakes. Will need a T-fitting for the Truck's brake light switch. Remember to place it in a down position, not to trap air bubbles while bleeding.
Also the Master cyl and Differential Valve has different size fittings at each port. Try to get the same size line 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8. Don't use multiple sizes. 3/16" (4.75mm) for most passenger cars and 1/4" (6mm) for trucks and larger vehicles
Assembled the brake lines a little. Didn't want to be on my back under the truck doing this. Just lots of measurements, then check it again two or three times before cutting and bending. It will fit up in the frame rail nicely. Now I need to disassemble the old brake system. I was using 3/16 line because the adapter did not go large e enough to use for 1/4 line
Last edited by Ford52F2; Oct 21, 2025 at 09:19 AM.
Got to reading /researching about the manual brake adapters. Found out the one I have fit only 48-52 Ford F1 pickups. Had to measure old master cylinder and create one. This is now for an F2 pickup.
the oval holes was where I mess up the dimension from top holes to center hole. But it will work. Will mock it up tomorrow under the truck to see if I need to cut it any more.
Did not need to counterbore for this. On the F1 adapter you need to counterbore because the new dual cylinder would interfere with the mounting holes
If you did a DUAL RESERVOIR upgrade on a four wheel drum system, you have the wrong MC (shows as DISC-DRUM).
You will also have to have 10# residual pressure valves in both circuits @ the MC to prevent gravity induced brake fluid drain-back.
It looks like a cap screw is inserted in the PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL VALVE (not really needed) instead of a tool fitting to prevent the PDV pintle from moving.
That cap screw is the tool. Just installed it to keep the piston from moving until after I bleed it. The dual reservoir should have been an equal type reservoir but I came across this type. It was a freebie. I still have time to change it if I decide.
Fitted up my modified adapter, had to cut an eighth off the right side and just cut a angle off also.
It now fits, I can now clean and paint the area, and adapter.
Ford52F2
Last edited by Ford52F2; Nov 26, 2025 at 01:34 PM.
Well, it looks like I'll need to jump in and get started on rebuilding my Brake System. I rebuilt the original Brake System back in 1990. Drove it off and on until 2013. This system also went through a flood in 1997. I recently installed an emergency foot brake into the truck, and while I was at it bled the brakes. The brake were good and tight. About a week later while messing with the emergency brakes I notice that the brake was soft and went to the floor. Master brake cylinder was leaking. Decided to jump in and redo the entire brake system. I had collected some brake parts for this through the years.
1. New dual Master Brake cyl. from 1967 to 1972 Ford. Will need to modify push rod. Changed about an inch in length. Not in the kit was the Rubber Dust Boot.
2. Brake Pressure Differential Valve, What you are looking for C9TZ-2B257-D. Engineering part C8TA-2B257-M, The one in the photo is actual C8TA-2B257-N. Which is for a 4X4 F100. Still the same, there's a plug where the fifth line goes.
3. Adapter to mount New cylinder to where the Old cylinder was.
4. Need fittings and brake lines
Had to find the Brake Pressure Differential Valve from a 1970 F100 4X4. The piston did not want to move. Placed it in a part cleaner can full of Acetone to soak for the day to erode to rubber Orings. Then with a brass punch lightly tapped it and it moved. I had to tap the Valve body against a block of wood and the piston flew out. nearly lost it. Placed on order the rebuild kit, Bleed tool, and a new light switch.
This is what the install should look like.
Remember on the New dual master cyl if the reservoir is not the same size the bigger reservoir goes to the front brakes. Will need a T-fitting for the Truck's brake light switch. Remember to place it in a down position, not to trap air bubbles while bleeding.
Also the Master cyl and Differential Valve has different size fittings at each port. Try to get the same size line 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8. Don't use multiple sizes. 3/16" (4.75mm) for most passenger cars and 1/4" (6mm) for trucks and larger vehicles
I’m curious about how this works out, I’ve been told disk brakes without power assist need too much pedal pressure.
Haven't done this mod on a Ford, but I have a 66 C10 with the original single manual master cylinder and front disc from a square body and you can easily lock the brakes without having to stand on them.
Haven't done this mod on a Ford, but I have a 66 C10 with the original single manual master cylinder and front disc from a square body and you can easily lock the brakes without having to stand on them.
Well, that's good news, but my biggest issue with the drum brakes is lockup. Any hard braking and the brakes lock up, even with lightning up on the pedal, and I lose control in the skid. I'm hoping that disks will provide better control when braking hard.
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