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Fully Restoring 1972 F250 Highboy

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Old Sep 22, 2024 | 08:40 PM
  #1  
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Talking Fully Restoring 1972 F250 Highboy

This frame-off restoration will take place over the next ~6 months. Hoping to keep the costs under $30k.

Currently, I am in the process of taking off all of the body components and stripping the interior out of the truck so that I can have it towed over for sandblasting of the body, frame, axles etc...

The tailgate is too far gone, and one of the bed panels and even the bed floor seem like I would be better off replacing. Only other replacement needed due to rust is the driver/passenger floor pans. Grill is in rough shape and probably not salvageable (unless there is a way to fill and patch some gouges in it?).

The seat upholstery is shot, not sure if Im going to keep the existing frame for it or just purchase all new. Additionally, definitely going to eliminate the in-cab gas tank and mount one under the truck. Truck currently has two auxiliary tanks, but not sure what shape they are in. Not sure how the gauges are functioning, and the brakes are shot along with the tires.

Will also be putting in power steering and breaks and eventually A/C and updated audio and head unit (maybe a subwoofer behind seat since gas tank will be outta there).

Looking for any advice on best upgrades to do while I have everything off of this truck and want to do what makes most sense so Im not regretting it later.












 
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Old Sep 23, 2024 | 07:19 AM
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Well, the one thing i can say is prepare for it to take longer and cost more than you think! Beyond that, looks like a decent truck to restore!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2024 | 07:44 PM
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Pic 1&2: Curious if anyone knows if the grill shell can somehow be welded or patched by anyone? Don't really want to spend $800 on a new one (pics of gouges and deep scratches for reference)...

Pic 3: Also - Has anyone found someone locally who will reupholster using the old bench seat frame metal? My seat was beyond repair, but I could sandblast and repaint the frame if reupholster is cost effective vs. buying new?

Pic 4: Last but not least, does anyone know what this electrical box is for? It looks like holes were drilled in the front end and this was screwed in (not stock)?






 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DHDeichmann
Pic 1&2: Curious if anyone knows if the grill shell can somehow be welded or patched by anyone? Don't really want to spend $800 on a new one (pics of gouges and deep scratches for reference)... Anything can be done, Keep an eye out on evilbay and craigslist for a replacement.

Pic 3: Also - Has anyone found someone locally who will reupholster using the old bench seat frame metal? My seat was beyond repair, but I could sandblast and repaint the frame if reupholster is cost effective vs. buying new? You can get a kit and do it yourself.

Pic 4: Last but not least, does anyone know what this electrical box is for? It looks like holes were drilled in the front end and this was screwed in (not stock)? That is an updated Voltage Regulator






1&2: Curious if anyone knows if the grill shell can somehow be welded or patched by anyone? Don't really want to spend $800 on a new one (pics of gouges and deep scratches for reference)... Anything can be done, Keep an eye out on evilbay and craigslist for a replacement.

Pic 3: Also - Has anyone found someone locally who will reupholster using the old bench seat frame metal? My seat was beyond repair, but I could sandblast and repaint the frame if reupholster is cost effective vs. buying new? You can get a kit and do it yourself.

Pic 4: Last but not least, does anyone know what this electrical box is for? It looks like holes were drilled in the front end and this was screwed in (not stock)? That is an updated Voltage Regulator
 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 09:40 PM
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As to the grill shell. If you wanted to paint it anything could be done but will be time consuming. I ended up buying salvage rights to a 72 camper that had a ton of good parts. Paid 750 to take whatever I wanted and to date I've sold $550 in parts. Major stuff I've used so far was grill shell, steering column and dashpad. Look for good deals on whole parts trucks, facebook etc for grill shells. Yours is servicable if you can tolerate it while waiting to find one. Your area of the country may be hard to find parts. Here in Nebraska its not easy for bumps. Dents are much easier.

The seat can absolutely be redone. You can buy a kit or an upholstery shop can do it. I opted for a 90's seat frame with the studs for a cup holder. Our truck isn't really pristine either and isn't getting restored, just made usable and fun to drive. I find the newer seats more comfortable and they bolt right in using your seat tracks.

As has been said be prepared for more time and money. We paid a grand for our truck and have nearly 6 grand into it including sale of parts etc. It's not even drivable right now and the engine is out getting "rebuild". And when that's done it still needs some floors fixed, carpet, headliner etc. I'll have another 2 grand in it by the time I have the factory ac fixed. I pulled my engine in April thinking I'd have it back in by June. I just got the pistons in it Sunday. Life, time and money get away from you REAL quick.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2024 | 07:44 PM
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Just a quick update on teardown progress. Front fenders and radiator support are off (those damn radiator support bolts had to be cut off, biggest headache so far!). All of the doors, glass and engine down to the block has been taken apart (finding trapped fluids is always fun). Next step is to remove the remaining dash components and wiring harness along with the in-cab fuel tank (this will not be going back in the cab, as I am going to install one in the rear between the frame rails.

I have received pricing on acid dipping the hood, cab and truck bed, which is slightly more expensive than sandblasting, but without dipping, there is no way to get to all the rust in between the hood and cab components, seams etc... and I feel like this is the right way to go about it on a full restore...? Cab floorboards are the only thing that definitely have to be replaced along with the drivers side bed panel and tailgate which are too far gone. The bed floor is the only other thing I am debating on replacing, but need to do a bit more investigation this weekend.

Once I have everything torn down, the rolling frame and remainder of engine, trans and transfer case will all get stripped at the shop where I will have it towed over to. There, they will also be sandblasting and powder coating the frame before we start the rebuild process. Still debating turning the 360 to a 390 and doing cam, pistons, rods, intake, carb or EFI, and possibly turbo, or going to a 460 and doing some of the same.













 
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Old Oct 3, 2024 | 09:27 PM
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460 will be cheaper in the long run I would assume than an FE. You'll need a new trans then too but donor 460's are a lot easier to find than FE's around here at least.

Surprised you tore the engine down in the frame. Doesn't look terrible though.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 03:44 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by tcanthonyii
460 will be cheaper in the long run I would assume than an FE. You'll need a new trans then too but donor 460's are a lot easier to find than FE's around here at least.

Surprised you tore the engine down in the frame. Doesn't look terrible though.
I got extremely lucky today and got a 460 with all the rebuild parts for $800!....There are over $4000 worth of parts here and made my choice to go with the 460 build a no brainer. Heads need a bit of work, but now i know what direction im taking this project in.























 
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 09:05 PM
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Awesome Truck. The electrical box you were asking about is the voltage regulator for the charging system. The one you have is an aftermarket solid state replacement. The original would have been a mechanical one. The top cover would have been more then twice as thick. You absolutely stole that engine. Judging by the cam specs and by the pictures that is going to be at least 11 to 1 compression and probably higher. You won't be getting gas at at 7/11 for that one. The original owner was probably building a hot pro street or drag strip Mustang. Were you planning a daily driven truck? That being said you got one heck of a deal on that. I am very jealous!!
 

Last edited by bfairlane; Oct 5, 2024 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 09:19 PM
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Luckily, my former coworker and mechanic will be doing the engine build. He said the cam is very large, so I may end up going with something smaller if he suggests it. May be too much power for even the F-250. Any suggestions welcome! thanks
 
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Old Oct 5, 2024 | 09:41 PM
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Nice score on the engine. What kind of a fuel tank are you planning on putting under the truck? What type of tanks are under the truck at the moment?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 1browski
Nice score on the engine. What kind of a fuel tank are you planning on putting under the truck? What type of tanks are under the truck at the moment?
not sure on tank yet. There are currently two auxiliary tanks which I will likely get rid of along with the fuel doors in both bedsides. Like the look of the fill cap where it is, so may keep it there for looks, but don’t want a gas tank in the cab.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 11:08 AM
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Those tanks in front of the rear wheels are probably pretty small and an auxiliary tank for the 2wd trucks wont work because of the transfer case. Since you dont want an in-cab tank, a rear tank between the frame rail would probably be in order. There is plenty of threads here on Mustang tank swaps and others.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2024 | 05:32 PM
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I did a comple frame off several years ago, I thought 6 months would be plenty but it ended up taking about 18 months. The end results were well worth it

 
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Old Oct 9, 2024 | 07:35 PM
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Yeah, i have a feeling a year is more like it for me. 6 months was the plan until I decided to do the 460 swap.

Curious what condition yours was in before and how much you think you spent?
 
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